Bruce Ingram photo
Lewisburg, West Virginia
A view of downtown Lewisburg.
Of all the Mountain State small towns we’ve visited, the one we enjoy the most is Lewisburg, West Virginia, located in Greenbrier County. On many occasions, we’ve driven there just for a weekend getaway.
Frommer’s Budget Travel Magazine put the town of 4,000 on its “America’s Coolest Small Town” list, while Americans for the Arts, a national non-profit focused on advancing the arts and arts education, said Lewisburg is one of the 100 best small arts towns in America.
So, what do you do there? You shop. You eat. You strike up conversations. You eat some more. Basically, you just unwind and enjoy this Southern West Virginia jewel.
When we arrived one Friday evening, we checked in at the Historic General Lewis Inn—hands down, our favorite B&B or inn. Built in the early 1800s and in continuous operation as an inn since 1929, the General Lewis features antiques (such as spool and canopy beds, chests of drawers, and vintage prints,) in every room, fine dining, and a friendly staff. In 2014, Sparrow and Aaron Huffman purchased the inn. We asked Sparrow what it was like to buy an establishment that is so much a part of West Virginia’s DNA.
Bruce Ingram photo
Lewisburg, West Virginia
The General Lewis Inn is one of the iconic establishments in West Virginia.
“I wasn’t intimidated,” she said. “The General Lewis is an iconic part of Lewisburg and is a beautiful old building with an amazing story. It deserves the attention and care that Aaron and I have been giving it. Our goals are to preserve the past, but to create a space serviceable to the modern traveler and to add modern amenities.”
The horse-drawn carriage still resides in the front yard of the General Lewis, and visitors can still open their room with real, metal keys, but the Huffmans have implemented some important changes. Among them are a boutique craft cocktail lounge across from the check-in desk, and a garden that is now suitable for weddings. A number of the rooms have been updated, as well. For example, our Room 212 featured an enticing mixture of the original maple floor, an antique bureau, and a 19th century queen canopy bed, but with a Persian carpet.
Accompanied by Valerie Pritt, communications manager for the Greenbrier County Convention and Visitor’s Bureau and our guide for the weekend, we dined at The Humble Tomato. Emily and Ken Santmyer started the eatery in 2019.
“We opened this restaurant because we wanted a change in our lifestyle,” Ken said. “And we came to Lewisburg because we were attracted by the charm of the town and the people here. Our restaurant has been attracting people from all over Southern West Virginia, which has been really gratifying.”
As we talked at the front desk, a patron, without prompting, confirmed Ken’s statement.
“Yep,” he said. “We drove 60 miles to eat here.”
It’s easy to understand why the gentleman spoke up. Among their clientele’s favorite dishes are House-Made Garlic Knots (large bread knots glazed in butter, topped with Romano cheese and served with house marinara) and Pan-Seared House Mozzarella (panko crusted house mozzarella topped with house marinara). Emily said all of their draft beers are of West Virginia origin, the dough for their pizzas is fresh made daily on site, and the eggs, meat, and produce are locally sourced as much as possible.
Individually, we dined on Mushroom Ravioli, Mushroom & Gorgonzola Salad, and Pesto Linguine with Chicken. Dessert was Blueberry Cheesecake Calzone with lemon sauce and a scoop of ice cream. Everything was sublime.
Take a walk
One of the many wonderful things about a weekend in Lewisburg is that most establishments are within easy walking distance. So for breakfast the next morning, we ventured to The Wild Bean, just down the hill from the General Lewis.
“Everybody loves a local coffee shop,” Pritt said. “The Wild Bean has a relaxed atmosphere where people can hang out to study or talk.”
Chef Jake Hansen told us that the breakfast burrito is the most requested menu item. It consists of locally sourced eggs, potatoes, cheese, sour cream, tempeh bacon, and fresh salsa—all grilled together on a whole wheat tortilla. Our group gave that entrée a thumbs up, as we did to the scrambled eggs and melted cheese on ciabatta, and eggs with additions of spinach, cheese, green pepper and tomato, accompanied by a spinach cheese bagel.
We warmed up with cappuccino made from a specially blended organic roast by Red Rooster Coffee, although the smoothies were a major temptation. To walk off breakfast, we hiked for an hour or so along the Greenbrier River Trail just outside of town. The trail and the Greenbrier River, the longest undammed waterway in the East, are the area’s two main outdoor attractions. Tracy Asbury, who operates West Virginia Outdoor Adventures, (wvoutdooradventures.com) has guided on both for several decades.
“The Greenbrier River is one of those rivers that has something for everyone,” he said. “If you like whitewater, take the six-miler from Fort Spring to Alderson. If you like smallmouth bass fishing, go on a weekend trip from Marlinton to Beard or Siebert. For a gentle float, try the six-miler from Caldwell to Ronceverte.”
The trail runs 77 miles from the Cass Scenic Railroad State Park to Caldwell, which is just minutes from downtown Lewisburg. Asbury said trekkers can access the trail at numerous places.
Bruce Ingram photo
Lewisburg, West Virginia
Valerie Pritt and her dog Oliver walking the Greenbrier River Trail, just outside of Lewisburg.
“The entire trail has a less than one percent gradient, making it as flat a place to ride a bike as anywhere in West Virginia,” he said. “The trail follows the Greenbrier River for some 90 percent of its length. There are primitive campsites, potable water, and restrooms dispersed at intervals. Along the way, interpretive signage highlights the historic significance of industry. There are also numerous bridges to cross, plus two tunnels where people will need a flashlight to see.”
For day trips, Asbury said his company meets guests at the Caldwell trailhead where they park their vehicle and take the trail at their own pace. A typical day excursion for bikers is from Rorer at mile post 30 to Caldwell. Overnight users usually spend two or three days on the trail.
I like to birdwatch while walking the pathway, and in many places, it’s easy to access the river and fish for its smallmouth bass, rock bass, and redbreast sunfish.
After finishing our ramble we headed for a bakery, Corn + Flour, and owner Susie Hoffman.
“The building operated as a bakery back in the 1980s, and I worked here in the 1990s,” she said. “I always wanted to open my own business, and I also always wanted to retire to Lewisburg one day. So when I moved back here, I thought, ‘Why not. My retirement plan can be to work here as a baker.’ So Corn + Flour reopened as my bakery on January 11, 2018.”
Hoffman says bagels sell well, as do bagel-and-sandwich combinations and the danish, made on-site. She says her lasagna is popular with the lunch crowd, as are the West African Peanut Stew and White Bean Chicken Chili.
Next, we walked a short distance to Love Child and met proprietor Siobhan Winters. She worked at the shop when it opened in 2014 and purchased it in 2018. The business features children’s toys and clothing from newborn to age 10 and educational toys “without too many batteries required” Winters said.
“I try to promote toys that require kids to think and interact with each other,” she said.
Another stop before lunch was Patina, where Chris Ide is a co-owner. He said the store’s emphasis is on vintage merchandise and antiques—neither from any particular time period.
“I like to find things to sell that people will think are interesting,” he said. “We also let people rent space to sell items they think are worthwhile. This allows us to have a great variety of things for the public with the goal that something here will catch someone’s eye.”
Right before lunch, we strolled into Edith’s Health and Specialty Store. Edith McKinley started the business in 1986, sold it in 2018, and now works part-time as what she calls “the shop girl.”
“My mother was a nutritionist, so there’s never been a time when I didn’t know about the healing power of food,” she said. “That’s why I opened this store – so I could share my knowledge with others. One of the most helpful items I sell is locally harvested honey.
My customers tell me that our honey works better for them than an allergy shot. We also sell ice cream, local meats, cheeses, and chicken,” she said.
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Bruce Ingram photo
Lewisburg, West Virginia
Emily Santmyer and her husband Ken started The Humble Tomato in 2019.
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Bruce Ingram photo
Lewisburg, West Virginia
The lamb burger at the Stardust Café comes from locally sourced meats.
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Bruce Ingram photo
Lewisburg, West Virginia
Chef Jake Hansen preparing an entrée at The Wild Bean.
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Bruce Ingram photo
Lewisburg, West Virginia
The Local Café and Grocer is a popular eatery in downtown Lewisburg.
Speaking
Our lunch stop was The Local Café & Grocer. The eatery began in 2019 and aims to take farm-to-table to another level. The restaurant is the culmination of owner Clay Elkins’ years in food service, most recently as head of food and beverage at The Greenbrier Sporting Club. By bringing Todd Wagner on board as chef and general manager, he said everything came together.
“We use a lot of local produce, particularly in the summer, as well as locally sourced meats as much as possible,” Wagner said.
Lunch selections included a Grilled Vegetable Panini with mushrooms, chevre, hummus, and a balsamic glaze served on semolina bread; and a Beet & Orange Salad with candied pecans, cranberries, and organic chicken, topped with balsamic vinaigrette.
“Grits and crab, made with local organic grits, collard greens and a Maryland-style crab cake are really popular—actually anything with crab cakes is popular,” Wagner said. “People also like our Beef Brisket Hash that uses local beef.”
We next ambled one block to Bella The Corner Gourmet, a food and kitchen specialty shop.
“I had to reinvent myself after my old job dissolved,” said owner Tamera Pence. “A friend told me Lewisburg needed a gourmet shop in town, and since I had been a jack of all trades in different positions, and was used to herding cats, I was ready for this.”
The business opened in 2010 and stocks kitchen tools and utensils, olive oils and salts, artisan cheeses, and what Pence refers to as a “boutique collection of wine curated to fit both your pocketbook and your palate.”
By mid-afternoon we were ready for a pick-me-up and found that at Amy’s Cakes & Cones. We opted for ice cream in cups even as we acknowledged the enticing smell of owner Amy Mill’s homemade waffle cones.
“I had worked in the food service industry for years, and had been a pastry chef at The Greenbrier Sporting Club,” Mills said. “I finally decided that I needed to do something for myself—so I am still baking, but this place is mine.”
Mills fills her display case with fresh fruit-glazed tarts, macarons, and dazzling cupcakes that can be custom finished on the spot. On a nearby table, we saw a unicorn cake, awaiting pick up for a party.
“We also do breakfasts,” she said. “The hash brown casserole is popular, as well as homemade biscuits, and on weekends when family groups come in, the Belgian waffles really sell. Probably our most popular desserts are angel food cake with whipped cream and fresh berries and the bread pudding with vanilla sauce.”
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Bruce Ingram photo
Lewisburg, West Virginia
Tamera Pence, owner of Bella The Corner Gourmet, said she was used to proverbially herding cats, so opening her own business was not a problem.
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Bruce Ingram photo
Lewisburg, West Virginia
Lewisburg’s Carnegie Hall is a cultural focal point in West Virginia.
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Bruce Ingram photo
Lewisburg, West Virginia
Musician Bela Fleck is known for his expertise with the banjo.
Keeping it
Saturday night we dined at Stardust Café where we’ve enjoyed a number of superb repasts during previous visits. The Huffmans operate this eatery as well. In fact, we visited on Valentine’s Day weekend, which was the 15th anniversary for Stardust said Sparrow.
“We’ve been farm to table pioneers for over 10 years and before it was trendy,” Huffman said. “I grew up in rural Pocahontas County and know about the cyclical nature of growing food and the importance of local farmers. I shop at farmers markets on Saturday mornings for the food we serve here and at the General Lewis. If you buy beef from California, the money goes to California. If you buy beef locally, that money stays in your community which is to the benefit of everyone in that community.”
Toward that sustainable form of living, the Huffmans purchase their beef, pork, and lamb from farms within 20 miles. Naturally, we wanted to experience those local delights and they did not disappoint. We chose to dine on lamb burger with harissa mayo and a side of garlic mashed potatoes and a vegetable medley. Our other entrée was Forever Chicken Curry with creamy curry sauce over heritage chicken, basmati rice, mango chutney, and fresh basil—both entrees were scrumptious. For dessert, we had Sticky Toffee Pudding and Vanilla Gelato.
For our evening entertainment, we walked up the street from Stardust to Carnegie Hall, one of the four remaining Carnegie performing venues in the world. We were surprised by the name Carnegie in this small community, and learned how, in the early 1900s, the town raised one-third of the cost of erecting the building while Andrew Carnegie donated the rest of the funds.
“The concept here is that we want to bring performances to Central Appalachia that we would not have if not for Carnegie Hall,” said Sara Crickenberger, president and CEO. “Sometimes we can afford artists by working with other performance centers to create regional tours that help lessen costs.”
Allan Sizemore has worked at Carnegie Hall for 13 years and was named artistic director in 2020.
“We have a wide range of world music and do a lot of it,” he said. “Some past samples have been African beat, Celtic, and Zydeco.”
We saw posters highlighting previous performances by Doc Watson, the Preservation Hall Jazz Band, and LadySmith Black Mambazo, as well as Judy Collins and the Carolina Chocolate Drops. We also had time before our performance to check out art in one of the three galleries in the building.
“Only one-fifth of what the Carnegie does is about performance,” Crickenberger said. “We probably reach more people with our educational outreach than through performance. We take classes into public schools in five nearby counties and host workshops here as well. We do STEAM activities, like STEM but with the focus beginning with art—the A in STEAM.”
When the house lights dropped, local resident Barbara Nissman appeared to play a concert of Chopin, Rachmaninoff, and Liszt.
“There is no formula when it comes to Barbara,” Crickenberger said. “She is a world-known Steinway artist who now lives outside of Lewisburg.”
Nissman’s concert enthralled and enchanted us – something that visitors to Carnegie Hall can expect no matter who the performer is.
Bruce Ingram photo
Lewisburg, West Virginia
Eggs Norwegian is a popular breakfast entrée at the General Lewis Inn.
The perfect breakfast
Sunday morning before our departure, we had breakfast at the General Lewis. Before we even looked at the menu, one thing was certain—we had to have the inn’s famous homemade biscuits—no matter what else we ordered. Valerie Pritt joined us, and together we deliberated over the menu choices since we could opt for breakfast or brunch entrees, the latter available only on weekends.
We settled on Sourdough French Toast with organic maple syrup, Fruit and Yogurt Parfait layered with granola, Eggs Norwegian—a version of Eggs Benedict with smoked salmon in place of Canadian bacon, and, of course, biscuits. Like the weekend as a whole, the breakfast proved perfect. That’s what we’ve come to expect from weekends in Lewisburg.
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