How to spend a perfect weekend in Dartmoor's prettiest village

Head west for bale-tossing, sheep-shearing, cream teas and breathtaking views. 

What’s so special about Widecombe-in-the-Moor?

Well, plenty. For a start, it’s arguably the prettiest of Dartmoor’s villages. A photogenic ensemble of village green shaded by oak, chestnut and copper beech trees, a loftily-towered church and ancient, grey-stone dwellings, Widecombe-in-the-Moor sits in a sheltered valley setting, backdropped by gaunt, granite-strewn ridges (widecombe-in-the-moor.com).

Isn’t there a folk song based there?

Indeed there is. You’re thinking of Widecombe Fair, whose lyrics tell the tale of a group of men, including one Uncle Tom Cobley, heading out across the moor to the fair. Sad to say, the old grey mare in the story dies on the journey. But fear not, the country fair is still very much alive and kicking after 170 years, and is one of the biggest annual events in Devon’s calendar. It features the likes of bale-tossing, sheep-shearing competitions and the Uncle Tom Cobley Downhill Race (Sep 10; widecombefair.com).

What about the rest of the year?

For many visitors, the village’s main draws include scones in the two tearooms, pints and pub lunches in the two old inns, and sheepskin rugs, clotted cream Devon fudge and Uncle Tom Cobley tea towels that can be found in the clutch of gift shops. But Widecombe has lots of history to uncover too, and much of it can be found in exemplary detail on information boards dotted around the village. There’s even a panel explaining more than you could possibly want to know about a lovingly-restored pig shed.

Anything less sty-like?

Absolutely. A somewhat more impressive sight is St Pancras Church. It’s known as the Cathedral of the Moor thanks to its high, pinnacled tower that was funded from tin-mining wealth and can be easily spotted from many miles away.

Inside, seek out the medieval rood screen painted with saints and learn about the fascinating coloured roof bosses, such as three interconnected hares with shared ears running in a circle – a symbol also found in non-Christian contexts. 

Another must-see is the joyful working model of Uncle Tom Cobley and companions squeezed together on the back of their horse.  

By the churchyard’s entrance is the National Trust’s Church House (nationaltrust.org.uk/the-church-house). An unusual, 16th-century building fronted by a row of octagonal granite pillars, it has served over the centuries as an ale house, almshouse, workhouse and school. Now the village hall, it holds a weekly craft market (every Thursday until mid-October) and a monthly produce market (on the last Saturday of the month). Trust members can also have a peek inside the flagstoned building at other times – you just need to ask for the key in the adjacent trust shop. 

You mentioned pubs and tearooms?

Indeed I did. The pick of the pubs is the Rugglestone Inn, on the village outskirts. Built as a farm in the 1700s, it has roses around the door, ducks and a stream in the sheltered garden, plus three tiny low-beamed rooms. The no-nonsense food comes in satisfyingly big portions and is great value – the beef and ale pie (£11) is superb – and local ales are served straight from the barrel (book to eat). 

The spacious and efficiently-run Cafe on the Green has been serving cream teas for almost 100 years – under a different name, it was the first purpose-built tearoom to open on Dartmoor. Scones (from £5 with tea) are big and fluffy and there’s a good selection of home-made cakes on offer (thecafeonthegreen.co.uk). 

How do I burn it all off?

By climbing one or two of Dartmoor’s (dartmoor.gov.uk) characteristic tors, of course. Two of the most famous are under 10 minutes’ drive from Widecombe. Haytor has perhaps the best views of any of the moors – you can see the sea on a clear day – and is a 10-minute walk from the car park. Hound Tor, arguably Dartmoor’s most spectacular jumble of granite boulders, is also an easy stroll from its nearby car park, where The Hound of the Basket Meals snack van may be parked. Follow the path through the bracken and you’ll soon come to the atmospheric, mossy remains of a long-deserted medieval village (free; english-heritage.org.uk). If you’re after a panoramic view over Widecombe, head to Bonehill Rocks, then along the moorland ridge to Chinkwell and Honeybag tors. A useful booklet called Walks North Dartmoor (£2.99; pocketwalks.com) covers all of the finest walks, and is sold in the National Trust shop in Widecombe. 

While Haytor and Hound Tor can be busy, head to moody Grimspound and you’re likely to have it all to yourself – save for bleating sheep (free; english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/grimspound). 

About four miles north of Widecombe on a hillside in the middle of nowhere, you’ll find a late Bronze Age settlement that is remarkably intact, the remnants of its 24 round stone huts and circular perimeter wall still clear to see. 

But what about 21st century creature comforts?

The Rugglestone Inn is a classic rural pub that rents out a two-bedroom converted barn in its garden (three nights from £300). There are no other hotels to choose from in Widecombe but there are self-catering options and B&Bs (widecombe-in-the-moor.com/where_to_stay/where_to_stay.php).

The next nearest good hotel is the Ilsington Country House Hotel, five miles away across the moor, with views up to Haytor. This traditional-styled, family-run Edwardian hotel is set in 10 acres of grounds and provides comfy bedrooms supplied with home-made flapjacks, excellent breakfasts with eggs from Ilsington’s own hens and a smart spa with a large indoor pool (doubles from £135 including breakfast).