The stretch of coast between Scarborough and Robin Hood’s Bay must be one of England’s finest. And yet, despite those two places seeing plenty of visitors, this leg of the coastal path certainly isn’t overly busy. Why? It’s not for lack of loveliness: there’s the bay at Hayburn Wyke, plus geological marvels and endless big vistas from the rollercoaster of a path. It was only when I tried to plan a multi-day walk up the coast that I understood: there is very little accommodation to choose from.
So, when I reach the recently refurbished Plough at Scalby, I am excited. Scalby is only a couple miles north of Scarborough, but that means I can have an early breakfast and be on the beach at Burniston, examining the famous dinosaur footprints, as the sun rises over the North Sea. From there, I will yomp north up the Cleveland Way coastal path to Robin Hood’s Bay, 13 miles away – a decent stretch for a relatively short winter’s day.
First impressions are good: the bar serves hand-pulled local beers and has a cosy atmosphere, with seating areas mainly geared to diners. There’s a blackboard of dinner specials and a menu designed to appeal to all tastes: from steak or fish and chips to pumpkin-and-sage ravioli. I opt for the roast partridge special with kale and chestnuts and it’s excellent, a real winter warmer. At £17, it is one of the pricier mains; most are around £11-£15. I skip starters but can’t resist sticky toffee pudding at £6.50. Drink? My current favourite beer: Wold Gold, made near Bridlington by Wold Top Brewery.
As I have my terrier, Wilf, with me, I’m in the pet-friendly room – a term that often causes a sinking feeling. Too often that turns out to be the worn-out, tatty, last-to-be-refurbished box on the end of the corridor. How wrong I am.
We are directed over the road to Sunbeam Cottage, and when I open the front door Wilf jostles past me and sprints inside. I find him standing over his own bowl in the kitchen area, chewing on a very large canine treat. How did he know? There’s a bed for him, too, which he soon tests out. Since he doesn’t budge until early next morning, I assume it meets his exacting standards. (The final seal of approval is that – unlike at home – he doesn’t attempt at the first opportunity to swap it for one of the beds intended for humans.)
The cottage, one of three, is similar in style to the eight bedrooms over in the pub – and indeed, to the bar itself: plenty of Shaker-style wood, classic plaid cushions and throws, well-stocked bookshelves and lamps. Actually, there is a bit of a lighting obsession going on throughout the establishment. Someone has had lots of fun devising ever more creative ways to light a room.
In Sunbeam, there’s a tiny bulb to highlight every feature, even the antique fireplace in the bedroom, which is up the stairs (with aircraft-style, floor-level LEDs – actually, I think it was these that deterred Wilf from venturing upstairs).
The kitchenette takes the Shaker thing to an extra level: Belfast sink, Smeg fridge, range-style double oven, every imaginable appliance … I feel a bit of a cheat as I simply put a tea bag in a mug. Shouldn’t I be rustling up a five-course shoot lunch for the gang to enjoy at the four-seater dining table? There is even a well-kept yard outside for sitting out in summer. Can I live here, please?
Breakfast is over in the pub: a hearty selection that sets me up nicely for a day’s walking and those dino prints.
Accommodation was provided by The Plough (doubles from £100 B&B, single from £65; 01723 362622, theploughscalby.co.uk). For more information about the area, see northyorkmoors.org.uk
Ask a local
Karl Gerhardsen, head of recreation, North York Moors national park
Eat
For really good homemade food, you can’t beat Everley Country House Café. There’s plenty of outside seating and it’s a nice walk west from Scalby along the Keld Runnels bridleway.
Walk
After the cafe, walk back along the Sea Cut from Mowthorpe Farm to Scarborough. This was dug in 1799 to relieve flooding in the Vale of Pickering and is now a lovely walk. Watch out for otters.
Nature
Check out Raincliffe Woods, a 550-acre community woodland that hosts various events, and has lots of footpaths and cycleways. A walk through this can be combined with either the Sea Cut or Keld Runnels lane.
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