Urban river swimming
Taking a dip in the river is a national pastime here, with the River Aare the basis of the city’s claim to be Europe’s urban swimming capital. Fed by meltwater from the Bernese Alps, the river has a magical blue colour, and it is perfectly clean to swim in, even in the city centre. The most popular spots are Marzilibad, an area with flat grassy lawns, easy access to the river and an open-air pool – and Lorrainebad, a little further downstream. The strength of the current means you need to plan where to get in and, more importantly, where you are going to get out (the exit points are all marked with red railings). Avoid the clearly marked weirs, where swimming is forbidden. There are paddleboards to hire at Tip-to-Tail. Information about the river’s temperature and the water’s flow rate is updated daily on my website, Aare Guru.
The best of Swiss art
Switzerland’s museums and art galleries are among the best in the world. The Renzo Piano-designed Paul Klee Zentrum on the outskirsts of Berne houses many of the finest works by the city’s most famous artist and also hosts international exhibitions. It’s a 10-minute bus ride from the city centre. The fine art museum, Kunstmuseum Bern, has a good permanent collection featuring Swiss artists such as 20th-century surrealist Méret Oppenheim and Ferdinand Hodler, whose realistic style became “parallelism”. The collection of giant crystals in the Natural History Museum really blew my mind as a child – I couldn’t believe that such delicate, beautiful things came out of the mountains.
Anarchy on the Aare
Right next to the main station is one of the city’s most unexpected places: the graffiti-covered Reitschule, or Reithalle. The former riding school was squatted in the 1980s and in spite of numerous attempts by the authorities to evict the squatters, they have turned the space into a vibrant alternative heart of the city and a welcoming space for everyone (you can stay as long as you like without purchasing food or drink). Inside are bars, a club, a theatre and a good restaurant, Sous le Pont , where you’re as likely to see businessmen in suits as anarchists. The Vorplatz area outside has pop-up bars and restaurants and on a Friday night is packed with young Bernese. That the Reitschule exists within 50 metres of the swankiest hotel in Berne (the five-star Hotel Schweizerhof) sums up the city for me: Berne packs a lot of variety into a small space.
Waterside beds
The recently refurbished Bristol hotel (doubles from about £202 B&B – like the other places listed this includes a Bern Ticket, which gives guests access to all public transport in the city) offers smart, boutique-style rooms right in the old town. Hotel Jardin (doubles from about £150 B&B) is a family-friendly three-star on the edge of the Lorraine district, a 20-minute walk from the centre. Bern Youth Hostel (dorm beds from about £33, en suite doubles from about £116) has recently refurbished rooms in a great location between the Marzili swimming area and the old town. The cheapest place to stay in the city is Eichholz campsite (open April-end September, adults about £10 plus about £8 for a small tent, dorm-style rooms also available) right on the banks of the Aare and an easy walk from the old town.
Ice-cream and chocolate
Gelateria di Berna, which has four locations in the city (plus another in Zurich) and is a Bernese institution, creates unusual flavours like hibiscus flower, strawberry and balsamic vinegar, and there’s a chocolate sorbet to die for. A lovely and relaxed place for pastries, coffee and book browsing is Apfelgold. For the best Swiss chocolate, head to Läderach , which has stores on Marktgasse and in the central station. Every flavour of chocolate you could dream of is laid out in huge slabs on the counter, and sold by weight.
Gardens with vistas
For the best overview of Berne’s old town, climb up from the river to the Rosengarten (rose garden, free entry). It has a restaurant, and its benches are popular in the colder months as it catches the sun. The Botanical Garden (free entry) has a wonderful range of Alpine plants and is a lovely place to relax by the river. There are good swimming spots here, too. Alternatively, The Gurten is a 858-metre “mountain” (more of a hill, really) overlooking the city. As this is Switzerland, there is a funicular railway to take you to the top and a restaurant on the summit. There are also hiking, running and mountain biking trails on the forested slopes, as well as a 500-metre long summer toboggan run.
Cathedrals and clocks
Climbing the 100-metre spire of Berne’s cathedral is a must (open daily, adults about £4). I live very close by and it’s something I still do regularly. I never get tired of the view over the city: on a clear day you can see all the way to the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau mountains in the Bernese Alps. Nearby is the 13th-century Zytglogge (clock tower) – probably Berne’s most famous landmark. A guided tour lets you see the clock mechanism, which was crafted in the 16th century (departs 2.30pm daily or by appointment, adult about £17).
Stroll through arcades
The Bernese are famously leisurely walkers. The old town’s three miles of medieval shopping arcades, built from local sandstone, allow city folk to shop in comfort, protected from the elements. Try freshly baked bread and patisserie at Bäckerei Bohnenblust, and pop into Chat Noir for postcards, posters and craft products from local artists, which show that the Swiss design tradition is alive and well.
Beer and bears
The Altes Tramdepot serves some of the best beer in the city. The Bavarian-style beers are brewed on site next to the famous BärenPark (bear park). Unlike most places in Berne, the Tramdepot is open on Sundays. There are craft beers to try at BarBière , which is run by a group of friends who started off brewing in their garage before opening this bar in the hip Lorraine district. IPAs, stouts and porters are the focus here but there are also beers with ingredients like elderflower and cherries when in season. My favourite is a strongly hopped IPA – though the dark malty stouts are also delicious. Nearby Brasserie Lorraine serves unfussy dishes using local, seasonal ingredients (set lunch menu from £14). It has daily vegetarian and vegan options too. The Turnhalle is a cool cultural space in the city centre, popular for an after-work beer. It’s packed on Friday and Saturday evenings and is a popular hangout for the artists and designers who rent studios in the attached cultural centre, ProGR.
Eat fondue in summer
Don’t believe those who tell you melted cheese is just for winter. The best fondue in Berne is served at Harmonie (mains from around £16), which does quality versions of other classic Swiss dishes too. A good place to sample modern takes on traditional Swiss food is Restaurant Lötschberg (mains from £16) in the old town.
Best time to visit
The warm summer and early autumn are the best times for river swimming (a few hardy types swim year round but you have to be OK with 6C water to join in). In winter, snow adds to the magical feel, and a visit can easily be added to a skiing holiday.
Getting there
Berne is one-hour by train from Basel and Zurich, and two hours from Geneva. Travel by rail from Paris (about 4½ hours), changing at Basel or Strasbourg, costs from £50.
Prices
Beer (half litre) around £5.50, cappuccino £4, three-course meal for two £85.
Further information
myswitzerland.com
Kaspar Allenbach is the designer of Berne’s urban swimming website, Aare Guru
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