Holidaying like the luxury-loving Greeks in Porto Heli
Porto Heli on mainland Greece is a popular holiday haunt for well-heeled Athenians. And, with more than 20 properties in the area, The Greek Villas’ portfolio offers some great options for Brits who want to holiday in style, says Abra Dunsby
In summer, Greece’s rich and famous retreat to the super-size, pine forest-cloaked villas that surround Porto Heli, an upscale resort located in the beautiful Peloponnese region of mainland Greece that’s less than a three-hour drive from Athens (or a mere 25-minute helicopter ride/zip across the Saronic Gulf in a yacht).
But while this region – often dubbed the Greek Riviera – has long been a hangout for Greece’s royalty, celebrities, tycoons and yacht owners; Dutch royals; Russian oligarchs; and well-heeled Americans, it has remained largely undiscovered by the Brits.
Yet for UK clients seeking real privacy – away from the clubs of Mykonos or crowds of Santorini – in sleek properties that teeter on cli ffs overlooking small, sparkling coves, this area will over-deliver, as I discovered for myself on a recent trip.
The charm of Porto Heli lies in its relaxed upscale feel. It hasn’t been overdeveloped and only a handful of luxury hotels have made a mark. There are just two options here so far – the marble-clad, Acropolis-inspired Amanzoe, located up in the hills of Kranidi, and the stylish Nikki Beach Resort & Spa, aimed at a music-loving crowd.
But for maximum seclusion and discretion, clients can make like the locals and opt for a villa stay. Luxury villa rental company The Greek Villas has more than 500 properties across Greece, including 20 in and around Porto Heli.
They have a villa for many tastes here, from the honey-stoned, Tuscan-inspired Villa Dwell, where I stayed, to the sharp-lined, bright-white modernist Villa Tatler, whose floor-to-ceiling glass doors o ffer views of pebbled beaches and the mountains, vineyards and olive groves that wrap around this enchanting region.
Vasilis Pandis, the company’s managing director, says bookings are up by 100% compared with 2019 numbers, which shows the rising appetite in demand for villa stays.
“The need for privacy due to the pandemic has made secluded retreats travellers’ first choice,” he explains. “Availability for most of our villas is already limited during the 2022 high season.”
Big group appeal
With its eight bedrooms – two of which are independent bungalows, and all of which o ffer striking views of the sea or lavender and rosemary-scented gardens – Villa Dwell would be a great option for a large family or group of friends.
The vibe is traditional Tuscan and despite its size there’s a cosy, refined feel, with stone floors, wooden furniture, blue and white ceramics and pristine linen.
The views of the surrounding mountains and coastline are stupendous throughout the property, particularly from the Belvedere tower, which o ffers a 360-degree perspective and from which clients can enjoy amazing sunrises and sunsets with a co ffee or cocktail in hand.
There’s also a focus on nature and supporting the environment at Villa Dwell, with locally sourced cotton in the incredibly comfortable beds and sumptuous toiletries by Zealots of Nature, whose products are made with extra-virgin Greek olive oil, organic herbs and plants.
Villa Dwell features a beautiful internal courtyard where guests can lounge by the seawater-filled pool shaded by arches of fuchsia and white bougainvillea, or dine alfresco. It also has direct access to a small, quiet beach with crystal-clear water.
The Greek Villas offers a full concierge service so guests can hire a professional chef, all-day butler and cleaning service. The company can also arrange private tours of the local area and nearby towns and attractions.
Natural therapy
The Peloponnese region is packed with ancient history and legends from Greek mythology, and it’s well worth a visit to the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus, which is only around an hour’s drive from Villa Dwell and Porto Heli.
Built in the 4th century BC, it’s one of the best-preserved ancient theatres in Greece and a Unesco World Heritage Site. It’s known for its impressive acoustics, still hosting performances to crowds of up to 12,000 to this day.
The views of the sun-kissed mountains from the top of the open-air theatre are soulfeeding, so it’s fascinating to hear from our guide that this area of the Peloponnese was once used as a therapeutic centre dedicated to Asklepios, the god of healing. It attracted people from all over Greece who came to be treated by the resident priests, and who found therapy in both theatre and nature.
Also around an hour’s drive away from our villa is the pretty town of Nafplio, which, according to mythology, was founded by Nafplios, the son of sea god Poseidon – fitting, given its scenic waterside location. Later it was conquered by the Venetians, who built the impressive Palamidi fortress that still looms above the town, and then again by the Ottomans.
Today, wandering its cobbled, flower-filled streets dotted with boutique hotels, smart shops, Venetian-style houses and neoclassical buildings makes for a great way to spend a day, punctuated by lunch and ice cream at one of the many restaurants or cafes.
There are also interesting museums to explore, including the Archaeological Museum and the award-winning Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation Museum, which showcases folk costumes and local household items from the 19th and 20th century.
Local exploration
Another day trip option is a hop across to the Saronic island of Spetses, which takes less than 10 minutes by water taxi from Porto Heli.
It’s popular with Athenians on weekend and summer getaways thanks to its proximity to the capital (around two-and-a-half hours by ferry or yacht), but when we arrived out of season in October it has a tranquil atmosphere and a charm a fforded by the photogenic Venetian-style shuttered houses and smattering of relaxed restaurants by the port that look out across the Aegean.
There are a great selection of secluded beaches to explore, including Agios Marina, which is less than a two-mile walk from Spetses port and has a restaurant backing onto it, as well as umbrellas and deck chairs for hire.
The Greek Villas can organise yacht charters for the day to explore the Saronic Gulf further – the car-free island of Hydra is a firm favourite with locals, with tucked-away beaches and impressive stone villas reminiscent of the Amalfi Coast – but less touristy and overdeveloped.
The island was a hip hangout for artists and celebrities in the 60s, with fans including Sophia Loren and Leonard Cohen, who owned a house here. Today it draws an international, arty crowd thanks to its many galleries and restaurants.
Recommend clients book Hydra’s aptly named Sunset Restaurant for cocktails and dramatic evening views, followed by dinner at the Veranda Terrace restaurant, which looks over the yacht-filled port and the twinkling lights of the island’s houses and churches.
Memorable moments
After a day of sightseeing in the sunshine, returning to Villa Dwell up in the cool hills studded with lemon and pomegranate trees felt incredibly relaxing – there’s none of the stu ffiness or formality that can accompany a stay at a smart hotel, and no need to dress up for dinner (unless you want to, of course).
On our final evening, our chef prepared a delicious spread of warm bread and dips of taramasalata and aubergine, followed by barbecued meats and fish. We took our time over dinner as we shared stories, sipped refreshing local white wine and watched the glinting stars.
With only our group for company, and in such a remote location, we could laugh as loudly as we liked, stay up as late as we wanted and swim in the pool at whatever time we wished, without worrying about disturbing any other guests elsewhere.
After 19 months of restricted living, it felt like a wonderful treat to have that level of freedom and privacy, as well as the authenticity of holidaying like the discerning locals do – and that’s exactly the way many UK clients are likely to want to travel now, and in the years to come.
How to book it:
Eight-bedroom Villa Dwell is available from €2,140 per night, on a room-only basis. The Greek Villas works with a range of UK travel agents and o ffers commissionable rates.
Tel: 0203 286 5400; thegreekvillas.com
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