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Restaurants Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels Events Maps<br />

N°13<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

<strong>ZURICH</strong><br />

October - November 2012<br />

“<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong>: A cheeky, well-<br />

written series of guidebooks.”<br />

The New York Times<br />

Phoenix from<br />

the mashes<br />

Lots of new art<br />

in an old brewery<br />

Quick picks<br />

All our favourites<br />

on one page


NIEDERDORF - MARKTGASSE 12<br />

Contents<br />

Arrival & Transport 5<br />

Get your bearings<br />

Basics 8<br />

Facts, habits, attitudes<br />

Zurich’s districts 11<br />

Know where to go<br />

History 12<br />

Once upon a time<br />

A closer look 13<br />

Löwenbräu - a new hub for contemporary art<br />

Culture & Events 14<br />

Concerts, shows and exhibitions<br />

Quick picks 20<br />

Zurich in a nutshell<br />

The square at St. Peter is a lovely peaceful spot. AM<br />

Advertisement<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

CONTENTS<br />

When the wind gets up, the lake is great for sailing.<br />

www.juanrubiano.com<br />

Where to stay 21<br />

Hotels, hostels, pensions<br />

Restaurants 25<br />

Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more<br />

Cafés 33<br />

Chocolate, coffee and conversation<br />

Nightlife 35<br />

Bars, pubs and clubs<br />

Gay Zurich 39<br />

Zurich Nord 40<br />

Restaurants and bars in the north of the city<br />

What to see 41<br />

Churches, parks and museums<br />

Day trips 47<br />

Mountains, museums, thermal baths<br />

Zurich for kids 50<br />

Major fun for minor citizens<br />

Shopping 51<br />

Famous jewellers and young Swiss design<br />

Watches 56<br />

Directory 59<br />

From consulates to language schools<br />

Maps & <strong>In</strong>dex 60<br />

City map 60<br />

Public transport map 63<br />

Street register 64<br />

<strong>In</strong>dex 66<br />

October - November 2012<br />

3


4 FOREWORD<br />

It’s autumn and the cultural season is in full swing. As<br />

always, Zurich has way more to offer than you might<br />

expect of a city its size.<br />

Take classical music. The local Tonhalle Orchestra<br />

and the Zurich Chamber Orchestra both have a<br />

full programme. But international names also like<br />

stopping by: violinist Anne-Sophie Mutter will be<br />

playing Britten this autumn, conductor Paavo Järvi<br />

is coming to Zurich with Debussy and Stravinsky in<br />

his luggage.<br />

If you’ve had enough of classical culture, the<br />

jazznojazz festival offers a rich bouquet of jazz – or<br />

is it? For something totally different, hop on a tram to<br />

the indoor cycle-racing event, the sixday nights, where<br />

sports spectacle is combined with popular Swiss and<br />

Austrian folklore music.<br />

You’ll find all the details in our culture and events<br />

section, besides a full-page feature on the newly<br />

opened art hub at Löwenbräuareal. And if you’re<br />

looking for museums, day trips, leisure tips or a good<br />

restaurant or bar: you’ve picked up the right guide.<br />

And one last little tip which didn’t make it into the<br />

guide: pick up a bag of hot chestnuts, or marroni as<br />

they’re called, from one of the street vendors. That’s<br />

a quintessential Zurich autumn flavour.<br />

Cover story<br />

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />

pocket publishing GmbH<br />

Wuhrstrasse 15<br />

8003 Zürich<br />

tel. +41 32 510 85 76<br />

z u r i c h @ i n y o u r p o c k e t . c o m<br />

www.inyourpocket.ch<br />

www.inyourpocket.com<br />

Member of<br />

Zürich Tourism<br />

Published 6 times per year<br />

Circulation: 22,000 copies<br />

ISSN 1663-9944<br />

© pocket publishing GmbH 2012<br />

This issue’s cover is an image of<br />

Sisley Xhafa’s Y-sculpture at dusk.<br />

This newly installed sculpture in<br />

Hardau Park, west of Langstrasse,<br />

glows magically in different colours.<br />

For more details see p. 44.<br />

Photo: Matthias Villiger<br />

spiritclub<br />

Editorial<br />

Editors Chris Young & Lukas Füglister<br />

Research Lea Mastrobuoni,<br />

Alfons Merzer, Nicolas Bansac<br />

Layout & Design Tomáš Haman<br />

Photos Agata Muszyńska (AM),<br />

Juan Rubiano (www.juanrubiano.com),<br />

Rolf Müllestein (zuerichfoto.ch),<br />

Michèle Amacker (MA),<br />

Matthias Villiger (MV)<br />

Zurich Tourism: Caroline Minjolle (CM),<br />

Manuel Bauer (MB)<br />

Cover Matthias Villiger<br />

Sales & Circulation<br />

General Manager Lukas Füglister<br />

Sales Manager Diego Egloff<br />

sehstoff GmbH, +41 56 210 99 11<br />

diego.egloff@inyourpocket .com<br />

Ad rates at www.inyourpocket.ch,<br />

closing date next issue: November 11<br />

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It was 20 years ago this year that the first <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />

<strong>Pocket</strong> hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania. Since then,<br />

we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally<br />

produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than<br />

75 cities across the continent (with Ghent, Belgium, the<br />

latest city to be pocketed) and the number of <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />

<strong>Pocket</strong> guides published each year is approaching an<br />

amazing five million.<br />

Always an innovative publisher, we have just launched<br />

a new version of our iPhone app, which can be<br />

downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP<br />

Guides’ by name.<br />

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Copyright notice<br />

Text and photos copyright pocket<br />

publishing GmbH. Maps copyright by<br />

Kartographie Huber München. All rights<br />

reserved. No part of this publication may<br />

be reproduced in any form, except brief<br />

extracts for the purpose of review, without<br />

written permission from the publisher and<br />

copyright owner. The brand name <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong><br />

<strong>Pocket</strong> is used under license from UAB<br />

<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> (Bernadinų 9-4, LT-01124<br />

Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).<br />

Editor’s note<br />

The editorial content of <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />

guides is independent from paid-for<br />

advertising. Sponsored listings are<br />

clearly marked as such. We welcome all<br />

readers’ comments and suggestions.<br />

We have made every effort to ensure<br />

the accuracy of the information at the<br />

time of going to press and assume no<br />

responsibility for changes and errors.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Arriving by plane<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong>ternational Airport lies 13 kilometres north of the<br />

city centre in the municipality of Kloten and handles around<br />

700 flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide.<br />

You can find ATMs and information desks at Arrival 1 and<br />

Arrival 2 just after you pass customs. Find free copies of<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> at the information desk at Arrival 1.<br />

There is a big public shopping area with most shops open<br />

from 08:00 - 21:00 (groceries from 06:00 - 23:00).<br />

To get to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and<br />

from the airport is by train. Take one of the fast trains or<br />

slower S-trains leaving from the underground train station<br />

near terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the platform reads<br />

Zürich HB (HB = main station), it’s the right train. Up to ten<br />

trains leave an hour and the journey takes roughly ten<br />

minutes. Tickets can be bought at the counters or at the<br />

ticket machines (switch them to English on the first screen)<br />

next to the stairs leading down to the platforms. A ticket for<br />

an adult is 6.40Sfr and valid for one hour in the whole city<br />

(3 zones). If you plan to do more travelling by public transport,<br />

make it a 24 hour ticket for just twice the price.<br />

Zurich’s main train station. MA<br />

A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around 60Sfr. Taxi stands<br />

are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2. Only licensed taxis are<br />

allowed to pick up passengers. They are generally safe<br />

and reliable.<br />

Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via Oerlikon to Zurich<br />

main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes, same<br />

tickets as for the trains are valid. Good option if your hotel<br />

is in Zurich Nord.<br />

Arriving by train<br />

Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short<br />

for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the<br />

city. All international and domestic trains leave and arrive<br />

here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the<br />

main hall, where you will find ticket offices and the tourist<br />

information. Trams, buses and taxis leave just outside<br />

the station.<br />

At the ticket office in the main hall you can buy train tickets<br />

(also available at the many ticket machines), tickets for public<br />

transport in Zurich and also change money. For time tables<br />

and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch or call +41 900 300 300<br />

(1.19Sfr/min).<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT<br />

Arriving by bus<br />

Buses from other European countries arrive at the bus<br />

station (Bus Terminal Sihlquai, E-1), two minutes walk<br />

north from the main train station. The connections are run<br />

by private companies, most connections are to Eastern<br />

and Southern Europe. The bus station itself offers very<br />

few facilities but you can buy some tickets here. Zurich<br />

sightseeing buses start here as well.<br />

Arriving by car<br />

The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from all<br />

directions to Zurich and if you follow the signs to Zurich<br />

City the city centre is quite easy to reach. But parking is<br />

scarce and very expensive. Car parks and hotels charge<br />

up to 40Sfr for 24 hours and you can hardly find other<br />

parking spaces where you can leave your car for more<br />

than 90 minutes. For overnight parking you can try to<br />

find a slot in the so-called blue zone in residential areas<br />

- parking there is free from 20:00 - 08:00, indicate your<br />

arrival time on your parking disk.<br />

Driving in Switzerland is generally easy, as roads are<br />

in good condition, sign posting is excellent and drivers<br />

usually not too aggressive. If you’re using the motorways<br />

you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr (available at petrol<br />

stations and post offices). Remember that trams always<br />

have right of way, as well as pedestrians on zebracrossings<br />

without traffic lights.<br />

The legal alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%, which should<br />

allow you to have roughly one glass of beer before driving.<br />

The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas,<br />

80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways.<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

October - November 2012<br />

5


6 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT<br />

<strong>In</strong> residential zones in Zurich, the speed limit is often 30km/h.<br />

We strongly advise you to observe the limits carefully as<br />

there are dozens of fixed and temporary radar controls in<br />

the city. Fines are high and yes, Switzerland has agreements<br />

with many European countries to make sure you pay the fine<br />

even if you have a foreign number plate. You may use your<br />

home driving license in Switzerland as long as it is valid - if<br />

the license is a non EU-one and in a language other than<br />

French, English, Italian or German it is recommended that it<br />

be accompanied by an international one.<br />

Public transport<br />

Trains<br />

The punctuality of trains in Switzerland is legendary. You<br />

can almost set your watch to the departure times. The train<br />

network is fast, reliable and extensive. For getting around in<br />

Switzerland, trains are definitely best - from Zurich there are<br />

connections to all the major Swiss cities once or twice an<br />

hour. The state owned train company is called SBB. For time<br />

tables refer to w w w . s b b .c h . Tickets are sold on vending<br />

machines (switch them to English on the first screen) and<br />

at the counters in the main hall at Zurich main train station<br />

- clerks usually speak English. You can purchase single and<br />

return tickets. Children up to 5 travel for free, from 6 - 16<br />

years they pay the so-called half-fare. If you plan on travelling<br />

around Switzerland a lot, get a half-fare card for one month<br />

for 110Sfr - and travel for half the fare on all public transport.<br />

You cannot buy tickets on the train anymore. If you board a<br />

train without a valid ticket, you will have to pay a fine of 90Sfr.<br />

The so-called Polybahn, connecting the ETH with the city<br />

since 1889. AM<br />

Buses and ships<br />

Public buses get you from the nearest train station to most<br />

every village in the country. The time tables are integrated<br />

in the database on www .sbb .ch. There are ships on all the<br />

larger Swiss lakes. For information about ships on Lake<br />

Zurich, see page 41.<br />

City transport<br />

Although most distances in Zurich are quite short, public<br />

transport can be very useful, especially when the weather<br />

is not so friendly. The network includes trams, buses,<br />

local trains, ships on the lake and on the river. The<br />

ticket system is fairly simple: Zurich’s cantonal network<br />

is divided into zones. So you do not buy tickets for a trip,<br />

but rather for a zone. The network of the city of Zurich is<br />

one zone, zone number 10 (see map page 63). Tickets are<br />

valid in the chosen zones for a certain time period on all<br />

kinds of transport. For getting around the city (zone 10) a<br />

day pass valid for 24 hours will cost you 8.20Sfr, a single<br />

ticket valid for 1 hour 4.10Sfr. Children up to 5 travel for free,<br />

6 - 16 year-olds pay the so-called half-fare (which actually<br />

is 2.90Sfr). These tickets can be purchased at the ticket<br />

machines you find at almost every stop (most of them now<br />

take credit cards, switch them to English on the first screen).<br />

Be aware that the popular lookout Uetliberg and the airport<br />

are not within zone 10. If you get caught without a valid<br />

ticket, it’s 90Sfr. For all questions about public transport,<br />

get advice at VBZ Ticketerias, situated at larger tram<br />

stops throughout the city.<br />

Another option is the Zurich card (20Sfr/24hrs, 40Sfr/72hrs),<br />

which is valid for zone 10 and between the airport and the<br />

city, as well as giving you free entry to many museums. The<br />

Zurich card is available at most ticket machines.<br />

Public transport in Zurich runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30.<br />

There are night buses in the nights Fri/Sat and Sat/Sun<br />

to all parts of the town. Most of them start at Bellevue and<br />

pass by Central and Escher-Wyss Platz. They require a<br />

5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket. Send a text message<br />

from your mobile with the word ‘NZ’ to 988 to purchase the<br />

supplement by phone.<br />

Taxis<br />

There are 1350 licenced taxis in Zurich and in general they<br />

are clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It’s usually easy<br />

to get one, even in rush hours. The city sets the following<br />

maximum prices for taxis: initial fee 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr per<br />

kilometre, 69Sfr per hour. For years, these were the fixed<br />

prices all taxis had to charge. But recently the Swiss Federal<br />

Court ruled these limits are illegal, so taxis are now allowed<br />

to charge lower prices. But to be honest, we haven’t found<br />

any who do so yet. Not all taxi drivers speak English. Taxi<br />

drivers have to and usually do use their metres. Cheating is<br />

rare. Luggage does not cost extra. You’ll find taxis at official<br />

taxi stands at the main railway station, at Central, Bellevue<br />

and other places. You can hail them from the streets as well.<br />

If in doubt stick with the following big companies:<br />

Alpha Taxi, tel. +41 44 777 77 77.<br />

Taxi 444, tel. +41 44 444 44 44.<br />

Bicycles<br />

Many locals in Zurich get around town by bicycle. For the flat areas<br />

around Lake Zurich and the Limmat, the city’s river, a bike is ideal.<br />

Züri rollt - bikes for free E-1, Hauptbahnhof/Velostation<br />

Nord & Süd, tel. +41 43 288 34 45, www .zuerirollt .ch.<br />

Bikes and skateboards to borrow for free - all you need is<br />

identification and 20Sfr as a deposit. The Velostation Süd is<br />

close to the post office Sihlpost at the southern end of the<br />

long underground passage, near tracks 52 - 54. The northern<br />

one is close to track 18.QOpen 08:00 - 21:30.<br />

Car rental<br />

All you need to rent a car in Switzerland is a credit card, an<br />

ID and a valid licence - some companies do however also<br />

require a minimum age and minimum driving experience.<br />

Avis C-3, Gartenhofstrasse 17, 8Werd, tel. +41 44 296<br />

87 87, www .avis .ch. QOpen 07:30 - 18:30, Sat 07:30 -<br />

12:15, 13:15 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.<br />

Unirent M-6, Nordstrasse 110, 8Limmatplatz, tel.<br />

+41 44 363 61 11, www.unirent.ch. Local business,<br />

cheap prices.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com


8 BASICS<br />

Basic data<br />

Area<br />

Switzerland: 41,285km 2<br />

Zurich (canton): 1,729km 2<br />

Zurich (city): 92km 2<br />

Population<br />

Switzerland: 7.8million<br />

Zurich (city): 390,000<br />

Official languages<br />

Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh<br />

Zurich: German<br />

Local time<br />

Central European (GMT+1h)<br />

Rivers<br />

Limmat 36km (flows through Zurich)<br />

Rhine 375km (in Switzerland)<br />

Borders<br />

France (572km), Germany (373km), Austria (165km),<br />

Principality of Liechtenstein (41km), Italy (741km)<br />

Customs<br />

Switzerland is not a member of the European customs union.<br />

On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real<br />

tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling from and to<br />

Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight restrictions on<br />

the goods you can take free of customs duty from Switzerland<br />

to your country. For EU-countries the following customs and<br />

tax allowances apply:<br />

Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20)<br />

cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 gr (50) of smoking tobacco.<br />

Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits<br />

with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer.<br />

Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air<br />

travellers and 300 euros for other travellers.<br />

Goods over these limits must be declared when entering a<br />

EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply.<br />

As of last summer, duty free shopping is allowed in<br />

Switzerland for arriving passengers as well.<br />

A proud guild house on Münsterplatz. Zurich Tourism (CM)<br />

Drinking<br />

The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and<br />

18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are<br />

the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre<br />

Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers<br />

(in Zurich you’ll usually find Feldschlösschen and Hürlimann)<br />

are increasingly getting competition from innovative local<br />

brewers. Check out Sprint, Paul or Appenzeller for instance.<br />

Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the<br />

best may come from further south, you’ll find some very good<br />

Blauburgunders (red) and Riesling Sylvaners (white) from the<br />

Zurich region. Traditional Swiss spirits are fruit brandies,<br />

cherry (Kirsch) and pear (Williams) being the most common.<br />

Electricity<br />

Electricity in Switzerland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are<br />

round and take three round pins - they can take europlugs<br />

with two pins. If you are coming from the US, UK or Ireland<br />

you definitely need an adaptor - as well as from many other<br />

countries. <strong>In</strong> some modern hotels you find multi-use sockets.<br />

Health & Emergency<br />

Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak<br />

basic English):<br />

Ambulance: 144<br />

Police: 117<br />

Firebrigade: 118<br />

If you need medical attention, there are two medical centres<br />

for emergency consultations, one is Permanence at the main<br />

railway station just next to the taxi stand towards Bahnhofstrasse,<br />

where you just pull a ticket and wait your turn (+41 44 215 44<br />

44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open 07:00 – 22:00), the other mediX, just<br />

across the road from the tram stop Stauffacher (+41 44 298 50<br />

50, Badenerstrasse 41, open 07:00 – 21:00, Sun 08:00 – 18:00).<br />

Zurich has three public hospitals with emergency units which are<br />

open 24 hours a day for urgent matters. You can just walk in,<br />

service is good, but expect to wait:<br />

Emergency Unit Universitätsspital<br />

G-2, Rämistrasse 100, 8ETH/Universitätsspital,<br />

tel. +41 44 255 11 11. Q Open 24/7<br />

Well, there is of course one app we<br />

recommend very warmly to you: the<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> app features<br />

all the content of this guide - and much<br />

more - and all for offline use. Google<br />

maps is fully integrated to make sure<br />

you find the venues you want to go to. An offline map<br />

and public transport map are available as well. It has<br />

never been easier to navigate through Zurich. Frequently<br />

updated for free. (App store only)<br />

The free app ZVV-timetable provides real time doorto-door<br />

timetable information for all public transport<br />

within the ZVV network in the canton of Zurich (the bus<br />

is two minutes late? the app will tell you). It also tells<br />

you where the nearest stop is, and how to get from A to<br />

B. Definitely a useful app, and it’s available in English.<br />

If you install the free app of the Swiss Federal Railways<br />

SBB Mobile, you will be able to buy tickets as well. (App<br />

store and android market)<br />

ZüriPlan is a free app by the city of Zurich, offering a<br />

very exact map of Zurich with an integrated route planner<br />

for pedestrians and cyclists. The app is in German, but<br />

quite self-explanatory. It indicates points of interest as<br />

well. On the downside, not all the maps are stored on<br />

your phone. But the parts of the maps which have been<br />

used are saved for one week, so you can download the<br />

parts you need when connected to a Wi-Fi and then use<br />

them offline to save roaming coasts. (App store only).<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Language smarts<br />

Here are a few German phrases and some typical Swiss<br />

German words. The ‘r’ in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is<br />

pronounced like in the Scottish loch. Mind your throat.<br />

German<br />

Where are the toilets? Wo ist die Toilette? (Vo ist di toi-lette?)<br />

I’ll have a beer. Ich möchte ein Bier. (Ih mu-hte ein beer.)<br />

I’m from England. Ich bin aus England. (Ih bin ows england)<br />

Swiss German<br />

Hello (formal) Grüezi (groo-e-tsi)<br />

Goodbye (formal) Adieu (as in French)<br />

Thank you Merci (mersi)<br />

Sorry! Entschuldigung! (ent-shooldi-goong)<br />

Excuse me! Exgüsi! (ex-gewsi)<br />

Switzerland D’Schwyz (t’shviiits)<br />

Cheers! Zum Wohl! (tsoom vol)<br />

<strong>In</strong>habitant of Zurich Zürcher (tsoor-her)<br />

Zurich Züri (tsoori)<br />

Emergency Unit Stadtspital Triemli<br />

Birmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli,<br />

tel. +41 44 466 11 11. Q Open 24/7<br />

Emergency Unit Stadtspital Waid<br />

K-4, Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz,<br />

tel. +41 44 366 20 55. Q Open 24/7<br />

Pharmacies<br />

Pharmacies (Apotheke in German) on night duty are open 24<br />

hours, a sign on every pharmacy’s door will tell you where the<br />

next pharmacy on duty is. You can also call +41 900 55 35<br />

55 (1.50Sfr/min) which will connect you to the next pharmacy<br />

on duty. The pharmacy at the main station (Bahnhofplatz 15,<br />

tel. +41 44 225 42 42) is always open until midnight, the<br />

one at Bellevue (Theaterstrasse 14, tel. +41 44 266 62 22)<br />

always 24/7.<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternet/Wi-fi<br />

<strong>In</strong> the era of laptops and smartphones internet cafés are<br />

not as necessary as they were 10 years ago. What you really<br />

need are hotspots. Here comes the good news: many cafés in<br />

Zurich have free Wi-fi. You will also find the commercial Wi-fi<br />

providers Monzoon and Swisscom all over the city.<br />

A new possibility to stay connected with your smartphone, tablet or<br />

laptop during your stay in Switzerland and save on roaming costs<br />

is <strong>Pocket</strong> Connect by Swisscom. It’s a mobile hotspot, a small<br />

device to which you can connect up to 5 devices via Wi-fi. You can<br />

rent it for 5 days for 36Sfr (plus a deposit), 2 GB of data included.<br />

An additional day is 5 Sfr. Get it at the tourist information or the<br />

sbb travel center, both at the main station. More information on<br />

www.pocketconnect.ch.<br />

cafe.ch (internet café) E-3, Uraniastrasse 3,<br />

8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 44 210 33 11. QOpen<br />

07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. 0.3Sfr<br />

a minute, minimum ten minutes.<br />

Language<br />

Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken by<br />

64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%).<br />

Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country, where<br />

people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss German or<br />

Schwyzerdütsch, which differs from region to region. Be it<br />

among friends, at work or when dealing with the authorities,<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

BASICS<br />

people speak dialect. For anyone who speaks or - even worse<br />

- is learning to speak German, this can be tiring because at<br />

first it’s very hard to understand. However, Swiss people use<br />

standard German, so-called Hochdeutsch, when writing and<br />

speaking at school. When Swiss realise you are a foreigner<br />

they will usually switch to standard German. Keep in mind<br />

that a lot of Swiss aren’t practised in standard German.<br />

A lot of Swiss speak English fairly well, especially the<br />

younger generation. So generally getting by in English is no<br />

problem. The first foreign language at school is still French,<br />

so if you happen to speak some you can try using it.<br />

Mail & Phone<br />

Post<br />

Swiss post is generally reliable, and usually it’s not a problem<br />

to find a clerk who speaks some English. Swiss post also can<br />

take care of all your financial transactions. There are post<br />

offices all over the city - the Sihlpost close to the main train<br />

station is the one with the longest opening hours (see below).<br />

Public phones & Dialling<br />

There are still lots of public phones in Zurich. They all take<br />

coins, most of them both francs and euros. The newer ones<br />

will accept your credit card as well. Switzerland’s calling code<br />

is +41. Zurich’s code is (0)44 or (0)43. We list the country code<br />

before all telephone numbers. Of coure you only have to use this<br />

if you are dialling from abroad. If you are already in Switzerland,<br />

just ignore the +41 prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number.<br />

Sihlpost D-2, Kasernenstrasse 97, 8Sihlpost, tel. +41<br />

848 888 888. Zurich’s central post office, open until late.<br />

Take a ticket and wait for your turn. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30,<br />

Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30.<br />

Useful Zurich apps Get Zurich<br />

<strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong><br />

for your iPhone!<br />

» fi nd the venues<br />

nearest to you<br />

» browse through the<br />

entire content offl ine<br />

» fully integrated<br />

google maps<br />

» offl ine city and<br />

transport maps<br />

» regular free updates<br />

October - November 2012<br />

9


10 BASICS<br />

National holidays<br />

January 1 New Year<br />

January 2 Berchtold Day (local)<br />

March 29, 2013 Good Friday<br />

April 1, 2013 Easter Monday<br />

April 15, 2013 Sechseläuten (Zurich only)<br />

May 1 Labour Day (Zurich only)<br />

May 9, 2013 Ascension<br />

May 20, 2013 Whit Monday<br />

August 1 National holiday<br />

September 15, 2013 Knabenschiessen (Zurich only)<br />

December 25 Christmas<br />

Money<br />

The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss<br />

franc (Sfr), which is divided into 100 rappen. There are<br />

banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1,000 francs. The<br />

coins in use are 1, 2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and<br />

50 rappen.<br />

Lots of shops and restaurants will be happy to take euros<br />

as well, but the exchange rate you usually get is bad. You<br />

will be better off changing your euros or any other currency<br />

at a bank or at the main train station.<br />

<strong>In</strong> Zurich the nearest ATM is never far away. Credit cards<br />

are widely accepted - both in shops and restaurants. If you<br />

are only drinking, it’s usually appreciated if you pay in cash.<br />

Service is always included. However, if you were happy with<br />

the service leave 5 - 10% of the bill as a tip.<br />

Politics<br />

The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct<br />

democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a<br />

stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament<br />

are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and<br />

the seven-member government appointed by parliament<br />

always includes representatives of all of the four or five<br />

major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting<br />

of 26 cantons, which retain some independence and have<br />

their own constitutions, parliaments and governments.<br />

Bern is the capital. Due to the understanding of political<br />

independence many locals favour, Switzerland is not a<br />

member of the EU. Switzerland does, however, cooperate<br />

with the EU in many areas, such as on the Schengen visa<br />

and border agreement.<br />

Climate<br />

rainfall (mm)<br />

200<br />

180<br />

160<br />

140<br />

120<br />

100<br />

80<br />

60<br />

40<br />

20<br />

0<br />

J F M A M J J A S O N D<br />

source: Meteo Swiss, www.meteoswiss.ch<br />

18<br />

16<br />

14<br />

12<br />

10<br />

8<br />

6<br />

4<br />

2<br />

0<br />

-2<br />

temperature (° C)<br />

Market values<br />

Loaf of bread 2 - 5Sfr (€1.65 - 4.15)<br />

Cup of coffee 4 - 6Sfr (€3.30 - 5)<br />

0.3 litre of beer (bar) 4 - 7Sfr (€3.30 - 5.80)<br />

Public transport ticket, valid 1hr 4.10Sfr (€3.40)<br />

Packet of cigarettes 7Sfr (€5.80)<br />

McDonald’s Big Mac 6.50Sfr (€5.40)<br />

The Swiss national bank aims for an exchange rate of<br />

at least 1.20Sfr/€ (0.83 € per 1Sfr).<br />

Safety<br />

Zurich is a safe city, and in fact there is no no-go area,<br />

even for women at night. As a visitor you are unlikely to face<br />

any problems if you simply use your common sense. Of<br />

course some petty crime does exist. Be on guard against<br />

pickpockets just as in any European city: in a bar keep your<br />

eye on your wallet and your bags.<br />

Towers old and new: St. Peter, Hardau (left), Prime Tower<br />

(right). MV<br />

Smoking<br />

The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in public buildings<br />

and transport as well as in restaurants and bars became illegal<br />

on May 1, 2010. However, in the canton of Zurich, restaurants<br />

and bars are allowed to have a separate and served smoking<br />

room (fumoir). But only a few venues have installed one. We<br />

mark these in our listings with X. So in general, if you are<br />

a smoker, do as the others do and step outside for a puff.<br />

Tourist information<br />

Zurich Tourism’s Tourist service (+41 44 215 40 00) is<br />

located in the main hall of the main train station. They will<br />

answer all your questions and provide all kinds of leaflets. You<br />

can also book hotels and tours here. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sun<br />

08:30 - 18:30, Nov - April 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.<br />

Visas<br />

For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply<br />

need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even<br />

though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland<br />

is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result<br />

Schengen visas are valid for Switzerland as well. If you have<br />

a visa for Switzerland you can travel freely between the<br />

Schengen-agreement countries. Always check these details<br />

with a Swiss embassy or consulate.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

The City of Zurich officially has 12 urban districts, called<br />

Stadtkreise. They are simply numbered from 1 to 12.<br />

However these urban districts are mostly for administrative<br />

purposes - we introduce the areas visitors to Zurich should<br />

know by the names they are usually known by. The numbers<br />

in brackets show roughly which official districts they include.<br />

Niederdorf (1)<br />

Niederdorf (the lower village) is the part of the old town on<br />

the eastern bank of the river Limmat between the squares<br />

Central and Bellevue. It’s teeming with restaurants, bars and,<br />

spiteful tongues say, undiscerning visitors from neighbouring<br />

canton Argovia (Argovians have to take a bit of flak in Zurich).<br />

There is also a sprinkling of adult entertainment, especially<br />

in and around Härringstrasse sex workers of both sexes look<br />

for suitors. Most of Niederdorf is a pedestrian area. It’s<br />

criss-crossed with mediaeval alleys and small squares and<br />

a walk through Niederdorf should be part of every visit to<br />

Zurich. Especially if you leave very busy Niederdorfstrasse up<br />

hill towards Oberdorf you will discover some lovely spots you<br />

wouldn’t have expected. Along the river on the Limmatquai<br />

cafés with outdoor seating are a good excuse to have a drink<br />

and watch Zurich go by.<br />

City/Lindenhof (1)<br />

On the western bank of the river Limmat lies the Lindenhof<br />

quarter, the other part of the old town. Right in its centre,<br />

on a small hill, Lindenhofplatz gives you excellent views<br />

over Niederdorf. Zurich’s citizens held their meetings here in<br />

mediaeval times. The alleys and streets near here abound<br />

with shops of all kinds and some restaurants and bars.<br />

Towards the west, Bahnhofstrasse - one of the world’s<br />

most famous shopping streets - marks the border of the<br />

Lindenhof district, and on the other side, the so-called City<br />

includes Paradeplatz and the financial and business district,<br />

spreading out towards the lake. The City is delimited by the<br />

Schanzengraben, an artificial moat from the lake to the river<br />

Sihl, built in the 17th and 18th century to protect the citizens<br />

from all kind of attacks. These days things are more relaxed<br />

and you can stroll along the Schanzengraben, mostly on<br />

wooden footbridges or stone ledges just by the waterside.<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

<strong>ZURICH</strong>’S DISTRICTS<br />

Seefeld (8)<br />

Seefeld is the name of the district on the eastern shore of the<br />

lake. Over the past decade it has become an incredibly popular<br />

area to live in - which results in very high rents. There are some<br />

worries that this is driving away the area’s original inhabitants<br />

and spoiling its charm. With all the new residents in the area,<br />

scores of trendy bars and restaurants have opened in Seefeld.<br />

But of course the major attraction here is the lake: on the<br />

lake side there is a promenade with boat rentals, two swimming<br />

spots and the ever (over-)crowded Blatterwiese, where you can<br />

sunbathe on the grass, barbecue on two electric grills or dine<br />

in one of the outdoor restaurants. Don’t leave Zurich without<br />

having taken in the lake side.<br />

Enge & Wollishofen (2)<br />

The western shore of Lake Zurich is a bit less popular, but<br />

that’s exactly why it’s worth a visit. When the Seefeld side<br />

is overcrowded on a sunny summer weekend, you might<br />

find it more relaxing on this side. For example swimming at<br />

Mythenquai, or on Landiwiese, right on the shore. Enge district<br />

houses the two gardens Belvoirpark and Rieterpark as well.<br />

Langstrasse (4&5)<br />

Langstrasse (long street) is a street connecting districts 4 and<br />

5 through a tunnel underneath the ocean of railway tracks which<br />

divide the western part of the city. Some people still think the<br />

street and its surroundings are an ugly, unpleasant area - but<br />

they’re usually the ones who haven’t been there for years. It was<br />

once the best-known red light district in Switzerland. But in the<br />

last decade much has changed: more and more striptease and<br />

night clubs have changed into urban bars now very popular with<br />

Zurich’s young crowd. You will still find strip clubs, some street<br />

prostitution and drug trafficking as well as a few alcoholics - but<br />

some of the most interesting bars, restaurants and clubs in the<br />

city as well (see the nightlife chapter). As a result it’s Zurich’s<br />

most cosmopolitan and multi-cultural district, perfect for barhopping<br />

and with options for partying almost around the clock.<br />

Zürich West (5)<br />

Probably Zurich’s fastest developing district, this formerly<br />

industrial part of the city is rapidly changing into a new<br />

business and residential area. Office space and residential<br />

developments have sprouted everywhere, making construction<br />

sites a long-term feature. The area around Escher-Wyss-Platz<br />

has also become one of the city’s entertainment districts<br />

with bars, restaurants and clubs popping up like mushrooms<br />

over the last 15 years. The first clubs set up in abandoned<br />

industrial buildings, but now many have moved into newly built<br />

or renovated locations. On the waste land on Geroldstrasse<br />

(aka street of clubs), the clubs still have a raw, provisional<br />

feel, while the restaurants and bars around the large Abaton<br />

multiplex cinema have a more mainstream character. Thanks<br />

to its proximity to the train station Hardbrücke with night<br />

connections to the suburbs of Zurich, the area is flooded with<br />

suburban youngsters on the weekends.<br />

Zürich Nord - Oerlikon (11)<br />

The urban district 11 in the north of Zurich, behind the two<br />

hills Käferberg and Zürichberg is often referred to as Zurich<br />

Nord. The villages Oerlikon, Affoltern, Seebach merged with<br />

Zurich in 1934. Close to the airport, Oerlikon is home to<br />

numerous companies today, and to Zurich’s biggest event<br />

hall Hallenstadion and the trade fair grounds. Lots of housing,<br />

offices, parks and hotels have been built here in the past<br />

five years.<br />

October - November 2012<br />

11


12 HISTORY<br />

Romans and Schwyzerdüütsch<br />

100BC - X Century<br />

Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at<br />

the site of today’s Lindenhof where you can find a copy of<br />

the Roman tomb stone mentioning Turicum, the word from<br />

which Zurich developed. Roman rule ended around 400<br />

AD and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for<br />

the next few centuries. One important change that falls into<br />

this obscure period is the arrival of the Germanic tribe of the<br />

Allemanni, who brought with them the language that was to<br />

become today’s Swiss German dialect (Schwyzerdüütsch).<br />

Zurich in women’s hands<br />

XII - XIV Century<br />

<strong>In</strong> the 13th Century Zurich became<br />

an imperial city, answering only to the<br />

emperor of the Holy Roman Empire.<br />

Formally Zurich was now headed by a<br />

woman - the abbess of the Fraumünster<br />

abbey. <strong>In</strong> 1336 an uprising of Zurich’s<br />

craftsmen made the newly founded<br />

guilds the foundation of Zurich’s political<br />

structure, weakening the power of the church and the<br />

landed gentry. Many of the guild houses, still in use today,<br />

are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur Schmiden<br />

or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the guild of the<br />

shoemakers on the left).<br />

Zurich goes Swiss… and Protestant<br />

XIV - XVI Century<br />

The guild revolution left Zurich a little isolated, so in 1351 Zurich<br />

joined ‘Switzerland’, which had existed as a treaty since 1291.<br />

This however didn’t stop the city waging war against fellow<br />

cantons, such as against Schwyz which got in the way of Zurich’s<br />

plans for territorial expansion. Soon the city ruled over lands<br />

all around Lake Zurich and north all the way to the river Rhine.<br />

XVI Century<br />

Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major<br />

critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say on<br />

moral matters and became the initiator of the Reformation<br />

in Zurich from 1520 on. Apart from banning mercenary<br />

service the Reformation meant an end to all frivolous<br />

behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun was<br />

forbidden or strictly regulated.<br />

Napoleon causes a little bother<br />

XVI - XVIII Century<br />

During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and<br />

influence increased. While political power was increasingly<br />

monopolised by a few families, new ideas and debate<br />

flourished. Among the intellectuals of the time were the<br />

educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the painter<br />

Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll find today in the<br />

Kunsthaus. <strong>In</strong> 1798 Zurich lost its independence as Napoleon<br />

took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy into the<br />

Helvetic Republic, a centralised puppet state which only<br />

survived for five years.<br />

Railways and radical workers<br />

XIX - XX Century<br />

Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a<br />

federation with much closer ties between the cantons than<br />

before. The year before, the first railway line in Switzerland<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Löwenbräuareal - an exciting<br />

brew of contemporary art<br />

Dust, noise, a few well-built construction workers – the<br />

scenery at the Löwenbräu site these days is not what<br />

you might expect when you enter an art centre. But don’t<br />

be scared off, the redevelopment of this 19th century<br />

industrial site is actually near completion and many<br />

galleries have already opened shop. So step inside!<br />

Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli. ZIYP was opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher<br />

A detail of the new Löwenbräu architecture. MV<br />

was in. He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next<br />

few decades like no other. Escher’s statue can be found, not<br />

surprisingly, just in front of the main train station. Switzerland<br />

remained neutral during the First World War and was refuge<br />

to the artists who started the Dada movement in Zurich. The<br />

war exacerbated the poverty of the working classes and in<br />

1918 a socialist committee called a general strike. Many<br />

of the committee’s demands were later fulfilled, though not<br />

the demand for the right of women to vote, which was not<br />

introduced until 1971!<br />

The Réduit and the war<br />

XX Century<br />

During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally<br />

neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, making<br />

it difficult to import food and other goods. General Guisan<br />

prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing out the<br />

Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the mountains, the<br />

so-called réduit strategy. From a traditional point of view<br />

this is what saved Switzerland from becoming part of Nazi<br />

Germany, but more recently historians have suggested that<br />

other factors may have been more important, sparking off<br />

intense and emotional public debate in the 1990s.<br />

Zurich today XX - XXI Century<br />

After the war Switzerland’s economy<br />

boomed and mass immigration from<br />

Southern Europe set in, while culturally<br />

and politically Switzerland remained very<br />

conservative. <strong>In</strong> 1968 and 1980 youth<br />

movements clashed with police, but<br />

also brought new cultural life to Zurich.<br />

Today Zurich is still a major financial<br />

centre and has lost the conservative reputation. It has<br />

become popular as a place to live for highly-skilled workers<br />

from across Europe. This has made the lack of affordable<br />

apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today.<br />

This is probably the best place to go in Zurich if you’re<br />

looking for a large and varied offering of contemporary art<br />

The amount of art on display here is very impressive – it’s<br />

a bit like a modern-art mall. The Kunsthalle, run by the city,<br />

occupies several large rooms, the Migros museum funded<br />

by the eponymous Swiss retailer has its premises here as<br />

well as the private galleries Hauser & Wirth, Bob van Orsouw,<br />

Luma Westbau / Pool etc. and Galerie Freymond-Guth. And<br />

while you need a ticket for the Migros museum and the<br />

Kunsthalle, entry to the galleries is absolutely free.<br />

Originally the Löwenbrau site had nothing to do with art.<br />

Its story is a miniature version of the history of the district<br />

(or kreis) 5 where its located – first came industry, then<br />

failures and closures, then artists and experiments, and now<br />

big money is pouring into new developments. The red-brick<br />

complex was built in 1897 to house a large brewery which soon<br />

took on the name Löwenbräu, i.e. lion’s brew. Malt and hops<br />

were processed here for nearly a hundred years until 1986,<br />

when the new owner, Swiss beer producer Hürlimann, closed<br />

the plant and the lion roared his last. Thanks to the fact that<br />

the building is listed and could not be torn down, art galleries<br />

and art museums opened up in the Löwenbrau grounds.<br />

The latest chapter is the current redevelopment.<br />

Two big names from Zurich’s architecture scene were<br />

commissioned, Anette Gigon and Mike Guyer who have<br />

just finished Zurich’s new landmark – the nearby Prime<br />

Tower. They added an extra storey with a white finish to<br />

the building nearest to Escher-Wyss Platz, while placing a<br />

simple, nine-storey rectangular block with a red façade as<br />

a counterweight at the other end of the site. <strong>In</strong> between<br />

the two, the construction workers have pulled up the most<br />

eye-catching part of the complex, a black, asymmetric<br />

block twice as tall as the rest. This tower rises up from<br />

the yard behind the row of smaller original buildings, and<br />

then extends out over them, with a dozen floors in this<br />

overhanging section. It includes apartments with hefty<br />

price tags, some apparently going for over three million Sfr.<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

A CLOSER LOOK<br />

There is also the odd million hanging around in the<br />

exhibition rooms inside, but you can enjoy them with less<br />

money in your pocket. Hauser & Wirth are currently showing<br />

two artists solo, the eminent US artist Paul McCarthy in the<br />

lower rooms and the British Thomas Houseago in the room on<br />

the first floor, both until 20 October. The McCarthy exhibition<br />

named PROPO shows a series of large format photographs<br />

of larger-than-life, soiled objects the artist used in his<br />

performances in the 1960s. Whether soft toys or bottles<br />

of face cream, each item is carefully displayed in front of a<br />

coloured background, formulating a subtle commentary on<br />

consumer culture and the quest for beauty. One floor further<br />

down, in the dungeons so to speak, you can see videos of two<br />

of McCarthy’s performances (e.g. Sailor’s Meat, 1975). These<br />

are nothing for the faint hearted. Using creams, sauces,<br />

pieces of meat and his body, the artist explores sexual, bodily<br />

and conceptual borders. The Houseago exhibition shows<br />

reliefs and masks, as well a new work, a human figure five<br />

metres long lying on the floor, made of flat plaster boards<br />

and iron reinforcement bars, almost ready to jump.<br />

The other exhibitions are well worth a visit too. The<br />

Kunsthalle is showing a series of large-scale prints by<br />

Wolfgang Tillmans with scenes from across the world. Airport<br />

passport queues, sprawling industrial areas, surgeons in<br />

the course of an operation, myriad surfaces of the modern<br />

world. Helen Marten’s work is a combination of understated<br />

sculpture and text elements (both until 4.11). The Bob van<br />

Orsouw gallery is showing a number of drawings and objects<br />

by Hannah Greely, like a shadow figure caught in a steel rain<br />

shower under a cloud (until 13.10). And finally the Freymond-<br />

Guth gallery is showing a film by Dani Gal, Nacht und Nebel,<br />

which examines an episode involving the executed Nazi Adolf<br />

Eichmann (until 6.10).<br />

Paul McCarthy at Hauser & Wirth.<br />

Stefan Altenburger Photography Zürich<br />

So if you have an appetite for contemporary art or<br />

cutting-edge architecture, stop off at the Löwenbräuareal.<br />

With a bit of luck the construction site will be gone. And if<br />

you fancy a beer afterwards, the Markthalle (see p. 31) next<br />

door is a good bet.<br />

Chris Young<br />

Löwenbräukunst<br />

Limmatstrasse 270, 8Dammweg,<br />

www.loewenbraeukunst.ch<br />

Galleries usually open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00,<br />

Sun & Mon closed. Kunsthalle additionally open on Thu<br />

until 20:00 (free admission 17:00 - 20:00). Galleries: free<br />

admission, Kunsthalle: 12/8Sfr.<br />

The opening of the Migros museum and the art bookshop<br />

Kunstgriff has been postponed to an unknown date.<br />

October - November 2012<br />

13<br />

© Paul McCarthy Courtesy der Künstler und<br />

Hauser & Wirth.


14 CULTURE & EVENTS<br />

Zurich offers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera and<br />

ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed programme<br />

of excellent classical concerts in the Tonhalle and elsewhere.<br />

Pop and rock stars almost always stop in Zurich when touring<br />

the continent. Zurich also has a vibrant theatre scene, but<br />

unfortunately only few productions in English.<br />

We list the most important venues in the venue list and<br />

refer to them only by name in the event list. If the event<br />

takes place in a less usual venue, we indicate the full<br />

address in the preview. Events are listed in the categories<br />

classical music, exhibitions, festivals, musicals & shows<br />

and rock & pop concerts. Within the sections it’s ordered<br />

by the dates.<br />

Of course there are way more events than we can list. We<br />

recommend to check out www.zueritipp.ch for more events.<br />

Classical music<br />

02.10 Tuesday<br />

Zurich Chamber Orchestra<br />

Tonhalle. Conductor: Sir Roger Norrington. Works by Joseph<br />

Haydn, Benjamin Britten & W. A. Mozart. Q Concert starts<br />

19:30, 16 - 125Sfr.<br />

Zurich venue list<br />

Abart B-6, Manessestrasse 170, 8Sihlcity Nord,<br />

www.abart.ch. Small club, mostly rock and independent<br />

concerts. Tickets: www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325<br />

Hallenstadion O-2, Wallisellenstrasse 45,<br />

8Messe/Hallenstadion, www.hallenstadion.ch.<br />

Zurich’s biggest concert and event hall. Tickets: www.<br />

ticketcorner.ch and tel. +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min).<br />

Kaufleuten D-3, Pelikanplatz, 8Sihlstrasse,<br />

www.kaufleuten.com. The Kaufleuten Festsaal hosts<br />

mostly blues, soul, rock and jazz concerts. Tickets:<br />

www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min)<br />

Komplex 457 Hohlstrasse 457, 8Kappeli, tel. +41<br />

44 500 00 60, www.komplex457.ch. The city’s third<br />

largest concert hall, it mostly hosts rock concerts. Tickets:<br />

www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min) or<br />

www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min).<br />

Maag Halle K-7, Hardstrasse 219, 8Schiffbau.<br />

A big concert hall in Zurich West, hosts up to 3000<br />

spectators. Tickets: www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325<br />

325 (1.19Sfr/min).<br />

Moods K-6, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel.<br />

+41 44 276 80 00, www.moods.ch. Zurich’s first<br />

address for jazz, funk, soul, blues and world music. Tickets:<br />

www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min).<br />

Rote Fabrik Seestrasse 395, 8Post Wollishofen,<br />

www.rotefabrik.ch. Centre for alternative culture:<br />

concerts, theater, parties and more. Tickets: Migros City,<br />

Löwenstrasse 31-35, +41 44 221 16 71.<br />

Tonhalle E-5, Claridenstrasse 7, 8Bürkliplatz,<br />

www.tonhalle-orchester.ch. The Tonhalle is the<br />

place for classical music in Zurich. Tickets: www.tonhalle<br />

-orchester.ch, +41 44 206 34 34 (10:00 - 18:00)<br />

Volkshaus C-3, Stauffacherstrasse 60,<br />

8Helvetiaplatz, www.volkshaus.ch. Concerts and<br />

other events, hall hosts up to 1600 people. Tickets:<br />

www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800 or<br />

www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (both 1.19Sfr/min).<br />

X-TRA D-1, Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz. Hall<br />

for mid-size concerts and parties on Limmatplatz. Tickets:<br />

www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800.<br />

03.10 Wednesday - 05.10 Friday<br />

Tonhalle Orchestra<br />

Tonhalle. Conductor: David Zinman, piano: Yefim Bronfman.<br />

Works by Carl Maria von Weber, Béla Bartók & Robert<br />

Schumann. Q Concert starts 19:30, 25 - 125Sfr.<br />

07.10 Sunday<br />

Zurich Opera Orchestra<br />

Tonhalle. Conductor: Fabio Luisi, violin: Thomas Zehetmair.<br />

Works by Frank Martin & Robert Schumann. Q Concert starts<br />

11:15, 25 - 95Sfr.<br />

10.10 Wednesday & 11.10 Thursday<br />

Tonhalle Orchestra<br />

Tonhalle. Conductor: Jaap van Zweden, violin: Andreas<br />

Janke, violoncello: Benjamin Nyffenegger, oboe: Isaac Duarte,<br />

bassoon: Matthias Rácz. Works by Joseph Haydn & Dmitri<br />

Shostakovitch. Q Concert starts 19:30, 25 - 110Sfr.<br />

The Trondheim soloists with their string instruments. PD<br />

17.10 Wednesday<br />

The Trondheim Soloists & Anne-Sophie Mutter<br />

Tonhalle. Conductor & violin: Anne-Sophie Mutter. Works by<br />

Benjamin Britten, André Previn & Antonio Vivaldi. Q Concert<br />

starts 19:30, 35 - 185Sfr.<br />

23.10 Tuesday<br />

Zurich Chamber Orchestra<br />

Tonhalle. Conductor & recorder: Maurice Steger. Works by<br />

Leonardo Vinci, Leonardo Leo, Nicolò Fiorenza, Alessandro<br />

Scarlatti, Domenico Scarlatti & Domenico Sarri. Q Concert<br />

starts 19:30, 16 - 105Sfr.<br />

27.10 Saturday<br />

Tchaikovsky Symphony Orchestra Moscow<br />

Tonhalle. Conductor: Vladimir Fedoseyev, piano: Teo<br />

Gheorghiu. Works by Ludwig van Beethoven & Pjotr I.<br />

Tchaikovsky. Q Concert starts 19:30, 25 - 110Sfr.<br />

14.11 Wednesday - 16.11 Friday<br />

Tonhalle Orchestra<br />

Tonhalle. Conductor: George Benjamin, piano: Roger Muraro.<br />

Works by György Ligeti, Olivier Messiaen & George Benjamin.<br />

Q Concerts start 19:30, 25 - 110Sfr.<br />

20.11 Tuesday<br />

Orchestre de Paris<br />

Tonhalle. Conductor: Paavo Järvi, piano: Andreas Haefliger.<br />

Works by Claude Debussy, W. A. Mozart & Igor Stravinsky. Q<br />

Concert starts 19:30, 25 - 140Sfr.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

28.11 Wednesday & 29.11 Thursday<br />

Tonhalle Orchestra<br />

Tonhalle. Conductor: Lionel Bringuier, piano: Hélène Grimaud.<br />

Works by Hector Berlioz, Maurice Ravel & Albert Roussel. Q<br />

Concerts start 19:30, 25 - 125Sfr.<br />

Exhibitions & Fairs<br />

06.07 - 28.10<br />

Postmodernism -<br />

- Style and Subversion 1970 - 1990<br />

Landesmuseum, Museumsstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof,<br />

tel. +41 44 218 65 11, www.postmodernism<br />

.landesmuseum.ch. With this exhibition the Victoria and<br />

Albert Museum London (V&A) is coming to Zurich. This is the<br />

first in-depth, comprehensive presentation of the period of<br />

postmodernism, with international objects from the fields<br />

of architecture, art, fashion, graphics, music and design.<br />

The exhibition shows the development of the postmodern<br />

movement. Postmodernism was a reaction to the orthodoxies<br />

of modernism and its purism, which came to be seen as<br />

increasingly totalitarian. A new multiplicity of forms, colours,<br />

materials, styles and stylization emerged. More than 150<br />

works by artists including Aldo Rossi, Ai Wei Wei, Vivienne<br />

Westwood, Andy Warhol and Ridley Scott are here to be<br />

discovered. The National Museum Zurich has supplemented<br />

the exhibition with important Swiss representatives of<br />

postmodernism like Fischli/Weiss, Mario Botta, Yello and<br />

Pipilotti Rist. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00.<br />

Closed Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr, children free.<br />

Giovanni Giacometti and his wife Annetta by his own hand.<br />

PD<br />

17.07 - 17.02<br />

Giacometti - The Donations<br />

G-4, Kunsthaus, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. +41<br />

44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. An important<br />

series of works from the famous Swiss artist family, the<br />

Giacomettis, is on display at the Kunsthaus. Among the<br />

works presented, there are some the Kunsthaus obtained<br />

only recently upon the death of art patron Bruno Giacometti.<br />

Works from Alberto Giacometti’s mature period are installed<br />

on a temporary basis, until the extension to the museum<br />

is finished. Earlier series of works are on display as well.<br />

Additionally, a documentary exhibition has been put together<br />

by the Kunsthaus restorers, showing a selection of Alberto<br />

Giacometti’s plaster pieces which were also donated by his<br />

brother Bruno. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed - Fri 10:00 -<br />

20:00, Mon closed.<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

CULTURE & EVENTS<br />

20.07 - 11.11<br />

Streetparade Of the Gods<br />

C-7, Museum Rietberg,Gablerstrasse 15, tel. +41<br />

44 206 31 31, www.rietberg.ch. ‘Streetparade of the<br />

gods’ illuminates a region in central <strong>In</strong>dia about the size of<br />

Switzerland, which is to this day inhabited mainly by tribal<br />

societies, or adivasi (‘native inhabitants’). The exhibition<br />

stages an impressive parade of some 300 fascinating<br />

metal figurines made for ritual purposes by metal casters<br />

during the first half of the 20th century. Q Open 10:00 -<br />

17:00, Wed & Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. Admission<br />

16/12Sfr.<br />

Cinemas<br />

Zurich has 16 cinemas, lots of them with more than one<br />

and the large ones with up to 12 screens. Traditionally<br />

films in Switzerland are shown in their original language<br />

with German and French subtitles. But the big multiplex<br />

cinemas that have displaced some of the smaller ones in<br />

the last two decades have started to show more and more<br />

movies dubbed in German. <strong>In</strong> the best case they show<br />

two versions of the same movie: one in original language<br />

and one dubbed. <strong>In</strong> smaller cinemas you can still watch<br />

all movies in the original language - lots of them in English<br />

of course. They are marked with the letters Edf in the<br />

programmes (English with German (Deutsch) and French<br />

subtitles) - a D (capital) indicates the movie is spoken in<br />

German. Check the daily newspapers or www.zueritipp.ch<br />

for programme and screening times. The cinemas we list<br />

below usually show films in original versions.<br />

Tickets cost somewhere between 15 and 21Sfr.<br />

On Mondays tickets are 13Sfr in all cinemas on all seats.<br />

Arthouse Movie F-4, Nägelihof 4, 8Helmhaus, tel.<br />

+41 44 250 55 10, www.arthouse.ch. There are five<br />

Arthouse cinemas in Zurich, all situated in and around<br />

the Niederdorf part of the old town, most of them in old<br />

buildings with charm and style. The Arthouse Movie we<br />

list is the only one with more than one screen, showing<br />

studio and independent movies rather than blockbusters,<br />

just as the other Arthouse cinemas.<br />

Capitol F-2, Weinbergstrasse 9, 8Central, tel.<br />

+41 900 556 789, www.kitag.ch. The Capitol offers<br />

six screens with 850 seats all in all. It‘s situated next<br />

to Central, showing American blockbusters as well as<br />

European films - usually in original version. To call it’s<br />

1.50Sfr per call & min.<br />

RiffRaff C-1, Neugasse 57, 8Limmatplatz, tel. +41<br />

44 444 22 00, www.riffraff.ch. The RiffRaff is a lovely<br />

cinema with four screens just off Langstrasse - arthouse<br />

movies in original language, which is not necessarily<br />

English, are usually on the menu. If in doubt, ask at the<br />

cashier‘s. There are two bars perfect for a drink before<br />

or after the movie.<br />

Xenix C-3, Kanzleistrasse 52, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel.<br />

+41 44 242 04 11, www.xenix.ch. The Xenix is a<br />

cinema for film lovers located in a shed in Zurich’s district<br />

four. It’s operated by a film club and shows independent<br />

video and movie productions as well as retrospectives<br />

and classic movies that are hard to find on big screens<br />

these days. Movies start several times a day, check out<br />

the programme on their website. There is also a bar with<br />

very popular outdoor seating.<br />

October - November 2012<br />

15


16 CULTURE & EVENTS<br />

Opera & Ballet<br />

Opernhaus - Zurich Opera F-5, Falkenstrasse 1,<br />

8Opernhaus / Stadelhofen, tel. +41 44 268 66 66,<br />

www.opernhaus.ch. The Zurich Opera is a magnificent<br />

building near the lake shore built in 1891 by the Austrian<br />

architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. You can<br />

buy tickets on their webpage, by phone or at the ticket<br />

office on site (open from 11:00 until the performance<br />

starts, Sun from 90 minutes before the show). Plays are<br />

usually with German and English surtitles:<br />

The plays in autumn:<br />

Jenufa<br />

by Leoš Janáček, directed by Dmitri Tcherniakov<br />

Fri 04.10, Sun 07.10, Tue 16.10, Sat 20.10, Wed<br />

24.10, Sun 28.10, Wed 31.10<br />

Roberto Devereux<br />

by Gaetano Donizetti, directed by Giancarlo del Monaco<br />

Tue 09.10, Sun 14.10, Fri 19.10<br />

Salome<br />

by Richard Strauss, directed by Sven-Eric Bechtolf<br />

Fri 05.10<br />

Tosca<br />

by Giacomo Puccini, directed by Robert Carsen<br />

Sat 06.10, Wed 10.10<br />

Lucia di Lammermoor<br />

by Gaetano Donizetti, directed by Damiano Michieletto<br />

Sun 21.10, Sat 27.10, Tue 30.10, Sat 03.11, Sun<br />

11.11, Fri 16.11<br />

Sale<br />

a Händel-Project by Christoph Marthaler, music by Georg<br />

Friedrich Händel et al.<br />

Sun 04.11, Wed 07.11, Fri 09.11, Sun 11.11, Wed<br />

14.11, Sun 18.11, Tue 20.11, Thu 22.11, Sun 25.11,<br />

Tue 27.11<br />

Le nozze di Figaro<br />

by W.A. Mozart, directed by Sven-Eric Bechtolf<br />

Tue 06.11, Sat 10.11, Sun 18.11, Fri 23.11, Sat<br />

01.12, Tue 04.12<br />

Un ballo in maschera<br />

by Giuseppe Verdi, directed by David Pountney<br />

Sat 24.11, Fri 30.11, Wed 05.12<br />

Ballet F-5, Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse 1,<br />

8Opernhaus / Stadelhofen, tel. +41 44 268 66 66,<br />

www.opernhaus.ch. As of this season, Christian Spuck<br />

is the new director of the Zurich Ballet Company. Taking<br />

over from the renowned Heinz Spoerli, he will have to<br />

prove himself. 38 world-class dancers belong to the<br />

company - another 15 dance in the junior company. The<br />

shows take place at Zurich’s opera.<br />

Romeo and Julia<br />

by William Shakespeare, music by Sergei Prokofiev,<br />

choreography by Christian Spuck<br />

Sat 13.10, Sun 14.10, Thu 18.10, Sun 21.10, Fri<br />

26.10, Sun 28.10, Fri 02.11, Sun 02.12<br />

Junior Ballet<br />

music by Frank Henne, Offenbach, Bizet, Puccini,<br />

Zimmermann; choreography by Douglas Lee, Christian<br />

Spuck and Stephan Thoss<br />

Wed 21.11, Thu 22.11, Fri 23.11, Sat 24.11, Sun<br />

25.11<br />

14.09 - 17.02<br />

Capital - Merchants in Venice and Amsterdam<br />

E-2, Landesmusem, Museumsstrasse 2,<br />

8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 218 65 11, www.kapital<br />

.landesmuseum.ch. This exhibition tells the story of the<br />

origins of our contemporary economic system, capitalism,<br />

in the historic maritime republic of Venice and during the<br />

‘Golden Age’ of Amsterdam. Both cities played a key role<br />

in the economic and social development of the West.<br />

Merchants and traders invented new forms of finance, credit<br />

and commerce which we still use today. Both cities looked<br />

out towards the sea, took risks, built ships, pursued trade<br />

overseas, suffered losses, but also made large profits. With<br />

growing affluence and the birth of a pre-modern civil society,<br />

for example in Amsterdam, culture and splendour became<br />

more attractive than risky overseas trade. This marked the<br />

start of investment in culture and luxury - and also the end of<br />

the ‘Golden Age’ of both cities. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu<br />

10:00 - 19:00, Mon closed. Admission 10/8Sfr, children free.<br />

So these are the ships that brought us capitalism. PD<br />

27.09 - 18.11<br />

Jochem Hendricks<br />

D-3, Haus Konstruktiv, Selnaustrasse 25, 8Selnau,<br />

tel. +41 44 217 70 80, www.hauskonstruktiv.ch. Jochem<br />

Hendricks’s works are spectacular, surprising and astute: he<br />

deals with different ways of life, personality structures and<br />

social mechanisms. He often takes our familiar desires and<br />

fears as a basis, which he then comments on critically, often<br />

with humor and not uncommonly with irony. <strong>In</strong> his works, he<br />

consciously relies on the fantasies, memories and ideas of<br />

the observers. This exhibition presents an overview, with<br />

works from 1984 to the present day. Q Open 12:00 - 18:00,<br />

Wed 12:00 - 20:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 - 18:00, Mon closed.<br />

Admission 14/10/5Sfr.<br />

28.09 - 20.01<br />

Paul Gauguin - The Prints<br />

G-4, Kunsthaus, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. +41<br />

44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Paul Gauguin (1848<br />

- 1903) is universally celebrated as one of the founding<br />

fathers of modern painting. What is far less known, however,<br />

is that he left a relatively small but diverse and innovative<br />

repertoire of graphic works, most of them woodcuts. Gauguin<br />

found in woodcuts the ideal expressive medium for his<br />

non-illusionistic style, with its emphasis on the plane. Yet<br />

while his paintings chiefly depict the serene and care-free<br />

side of life in the South Seas, the woodcuts also reveal the<br />

unfathomable, nocturnal and demonic aspect of the tropical<br />

paradise. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed - Fri 10:00 - 20:00,<br />

Mon closed.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

01.11 Thursday - 15.11 Tuesday<br />

Expovina - wine exhibition<br />

E-5, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, www.expovina.ch. This<br />

wine fair takes place on 12 boats moored at the pier at<br />

Bürkliplatz. Stroll from boat to boat and taste wines from all<br />

regions of the world. <strong>In</strong> between enjoy your dinner in one of<br />

the on-site restaurants. Q Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00<br />

- 19:00. Tickets on site around 20Sfr.<br />

08.11 Thursday - 11.11 Sunday<br />

Kunst 10 - art fair<br />

N-1, ABB Hall 550, Ricarda-Huch-Strasse, 8Bahnhof<br />

Oerlikon, www.kunstzuerich.ch. A fair for contemporary<br />

art in the former factory halls just next to the train station<br />

Zurich Oerlikon: 70 Swiss and international galleries present<br />

the latest in visual art on 8,000m 2 . Q Thu 16:00 - 22:00,<br />

Fri - Sun 11:00 - 19:00, tickets on site 20/15Sfr.<br />

Festivals<br />

31.10 Wednesday - 03.11 Saturday<br />

jazznojazz<br />

D-2, Theaterhaus Gessneralle / ewz-Unterwerk Selnau /<br />

Theater der Künste, 8Sihlstrasse, www.jazznojazz.ch.<br />

Jazz, Latin grooves und horn sections - the 14th edition of<br />

the international festival ‘jazznojazz’ offers 4 music-packed<br />

concert nights in three locations - all within a 5-minute<br />

walk of each other. Jazz cross-boarder commuters like John<br />

McLaughlin and Anouar Brahem, rousing funk bands like<br />

<strong>In</strong>cognito or Earth Wind & Fire Experience or loungy<br />

sounds of Jazzanova and Timo Lassy create the ultimate<br />

festival mix. Q Check www.jazznojazz.ch for details. Tickets<br />

www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min.).<br />

14.09.2012 – 17.02.2013<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

CULTURE & EVENTS<br />

Musicals & Shows<br />

07.11 Wednesday - 10.11 Saturday<br />

Fashion Days<br />

K-6, Schiffbau, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau,<br />

www.mbfashiondays.ch. The Zurich Fashion Days will<br />

be four days of innovative regional designers and top<br />

international brands showcasing their Spring/Summer 2013<br />

collections.QTickets: www.ticketcorner.com, 110Sfr.<br />

The intergalactic Voca People. PD<br />

13.11 - 02.12<br />

Voca People<br />

Maag Halle. Armed only with their voices, the Voca People will<br />

sing across musical historyQ Shows daily 19:30, Sat 14:30<br />

& 19:30, Sun 14:00, Mon no show. Tickets: www.ticketpotal.<br />

com, +41 0900 101 102 (1.19Sfr/min), 69 - 89Sfr.<br />

Landesmuseum Zürich.<br />

Tue – Sun 10 am – 5 pm | Thu 10 am – 7 pm | Open on public holidays | www.kapital.landesmuseum.ch<br />

October - November 2012<br />

17


18 CULTURE & EVENTS<br />

Still looking good: the grand lady of soul, Chaka Khan. PD<br />

Rock, Pop and Jazz concerts<br />

For more venues with live music, see our box ‘live music<br />

venues’ on p. 36.<br />

10.10 Wednesday<br />

Jennifer Lopez<br />

Hallenstadion. She has sold over 55 million records so far<br />

- and is now on tour with her best-of album Dance Again:<br />

J-Lo, the singing and dancing all-rounder from New York. Q<br />

Concert starts 20:00, 90 - 120Sfr.<br />

13.10 Saturday<br />

Tina Dico<br />

Kaufleuten. An intelligent mix of folk, pop and a dash of<br />

americana, that’s Danish singer/songwriter Tina Dico! Already<br />

a superstar back home she wants now to conquer the world<br />

with her brilliant voice. Q Concert starts 20:00, 45-70Sfr.<br />

21.10 Sunday<br />

Dusko Goykovich Quintet<br />

Moods. Trumpeter Dusan ‘Dusko’ Goykovich, born 1931<br />

in Jaice, is considered one of the great stylists of modern<br />

mainstream jazz. On stage for his 80th birthday! Q Concert<br />

starts 19:00, 38Sfr.<br />

24.10 Wednesday<br />

Maximo Park<br />

X-tra. The indie rockers Maximo Park on stage with their new<br />

album The National Health. Q Concert starts 19:30, 45Sfr.<br />

Tickets<br />

Most venues nowadays sell tickets on the internet which<br />

you can print out yourself on any printer (see venue list<br />

for websites). However, if it’s more convenient for you to<br />

actually get tickets at a counter, this is a good option:<br />

SBB Event ticket counter E-2, Hauptbahnhof,<br />

8Hauptbahnhof. Located in the main hall of Zurich’s<br />

main train station just next to the train ticket counters,<br />

SBB Eventtickets sells all kinds of tickets, including all<br />

the concerts promoted by the three best-known online<br />

ticketservices ticketcorner, starticket and ticketportal.<br />

Just walk in and ask. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00<br />

- 19:00, Sun 09:30 - 19:00. A<br />

25.10 Thursday<br />

Chaka Khan<br />

Volkshaus. <strong>In</strong>comparable and brimming with power, that’s<br />

what describes the mother of all soul divas Chaka Khan best.<br />

She’s finally back with some deep funk and r’n’b ballads. Q<br />

Concert starts 20:00, 60 - 85Sfr.<br />

27.10 Saturday<br />

Anthony B<br />

Rote Fabrik. Keith Blair alias Anthony B has released 25<br />

reggae albums in the last 16 years. Roots and rhythm, dance<br />

it up! Q Concert starts 21:00, 35Sfr.<br />

27.10 Saturday<br />

Danko Jones<br />

Komplex 457. Simpy rock’ n’ roll! But in all varieties: Danko<br />

Jones from Canada. Let’s rock! Q Concert starts 20:00,<br />

45Sfr.<br />

02.11 Friday<br />

Nada Surf<br />

Abart. The New York trio combines profound rock skillfully<br />

with playful pop elements. This winter they released their<br />

sixth album The stars are indifferent to astronomy. Great<br />

rock on a small stage! Q Concert starts 20:30, 45Sfr.<br />

Not on holiday anymore: J-Lo, soon in Zurich. PD<br />

06.11 Tuesday<br />

Lionel Richie<br />

Hallenstadion. The four-time Grammy winner Lionel Richie is<br />

still not resting on his laurels. The man who co-founded the<br />

legendary band The Commodores in the 60s has rearranged<br />

his biggest hits - we bet you will be Dancing On The Ceiling.<br />

Q Concert starts 20:00, 80 - 175Sfr.<br />

07.11 Wednesday<br />

The Cranberries<br />

Hallenstadion. This Irish rock band had their golden years<br />

in the early 90s, and maybe some of us have heard their<br />

number 1 hit Zombie once too often. After splitting up they<br />

reunited a couple of years ago and now present their new<br />

album Roses - still rock music for the big stages! Q Concert<br />

starts 20:00, 60 - 70Sfr.<br />

14.11 Wednesday<br />

Seal<br />

Hallenstadion. Seal is pure soul! On his current album Soul<br />

2 he reinterprets soul classics. But you can take it for granted<br />

that the British superstar will play some of his massive earlier<br />

hits too. Q Concert starts 20:00, 65 - 110Sfr.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

19.11 Monday<br />

Seeed<br />

Hallenstadion. The dancehall and reggae kings from<br />

Germany finally back on stage. With them they have their<br />

new album, simply called Seeed! Ragga! Q Concert starts<br />

20:00, 60 - 75Sfr.<br />

20.11 Tuesday<br />

Elina Duni Quartet<br />

Moods. Albanian-born singer Elina Duni has an absolutely<br />

fascinating voice. With her quartet she plays world music<br />

which is faithful to the Eastern European tradition as well<br />

as giving much room to modern jazz. Q Concert starts<br />

20:30, 35Sfr.<br />

27.11 Tuesday<br />

Stone Sour & Papa Roach<br />

Komplex 457. The two US-alternative metal bands Stone<br />

Sour and Papa Roach on the same stage - both with a<br />

new album and hard rockin’ as always. Q Concert starts<br />

19:30, 58Sfr.<br />

30.11 Friday<br />

Lunik<br />

Kaufleuten. Lunik has been one of the most successfull<br />

Swiss pop bands of the last decade. After a break of two years<br />

they now are back with different band members and an all new<br />

album. Almost everything has changed - but fortunately the<br />

touching voice of singer Jaël Krebs has stayed. Q Concert<br />

starts 19:30, 50 - 75Sfr.<br />

ANOUARBRAHEM<br />

ESPERANZASPALDING<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

CULTURE & EVENTS<br />

Sports<br />

28.11 Wednesday - 01.12 Saturday<br />

Sixday-Nights<br />

Hallenstadion, www.sixdays-zuerich.ch. For four<br />

nights in a row, one cycling race chases the next at the<br />

race course in the Hallenstadion. Watch the international<br />

cycling elite racing for points and glory. Q Starts daily<br />

18:00, tickets 31 - 86Sfr.<br />

Comedy<br />

INCOGNITO<br />

JAMESGRUNTZ<br />

JAZZANOVA<br />

JOHNMCLAUGHLIN<br />

LARRYCARLTON<br />

LIZZWRIGHT<br />

MARCUSMILLER<br />

MIKEMAINIERI<br />

NICOLACONTE<br />

NICOLEWILLIS<br />

NILS PETTERMOLVAER<br />

THE EARTH WIND & FIRE EXPERIENCE<br />

THE NEW MASTERSOUNDS<br />

TIMOLASSY<br />

Y’AKOTO<br />

<br />

<br />

www.jazznojazz.ch<br />

14th <strong>ZURICH</strong> INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL<br />

Gessnerallee Zürich<br />

ewz-Unterwerk Selnau<br />

ZKBJazzClub im Theater der Künste<br />

31.10.–3.11.12<br />

www.ticketcorner.ch www.jazznojazz.ch<br />

<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternational Comedy Club<br />

www.internationalcomedyclub.ch. The <strong>In</strong>ternational<br />

Comedy Club brings English-language stand-up<br />

comedy to Zurich, taking place at the club Mascotte<br />

(F-5, Theaterstrasse 10). Tickets usually 40/35Sfr at<br />

www.ticketcorner.ch. Shows start at 20:00.<br />

12.10 Friday<br />

Imran Yusuf & Jason Patterson<br />

26.10 Friday<br />

Pete Firman & Joe Rowntree<br />

09.11 Friday<br />

Rob Deering & Shazia Mirza<br />

23.11 Friday<br />

Keith Farnan & Luke Graves<br />

ESPERANZA<br />

SPALDING<br />

3.11.12<br />

ZKB JAZZPREISKALEIDOSCOPE STRING QUARTET<br />

www.allblues.ch<br />

October - November 2012<br />

19


20 QUICK PICKS<br />

Zurich at a glance<br />

Eat Drink Do<br />

Local For fresh tapas and no-nonsense<br />

Spanish charm head<br />

to the Bodega Espanola (p.<br />

30), an institution in Niederdorf.<br />

Chose from the tapas<br />

on display and take a seat on<br />

one of the large tables - just<br />

as locals famous and less so<br />

have done for decades.<br />

On the cheap For cheap, good food, head to<br />

Lily’s at Langstrasse (p. 25):<br />

the pan-Asian menu is full of<br />

tasty and very reasonably<br />

priced food and the service<br />

is quick. Perfect to start off<br />

your night in the Langstrasse<br />

district.<br />

Lads For generous portions of solid<br />

Swiss food, particularly meat,<br />

at very decent prices, head<br />

for Rheinfelder Bierhalle (p.<br />

32) in Niederdorf: kidneys,<br />

liver, cordon bleu or schnitzel<br />

- they have it all.<br />

For couples If you’re looking for a nice<br />

place for a tête-à-tête, the<br />

Mère Catherine (p. 27) has<br />

the right atmosphere. And a<br />

very pleasing French-inspired<br />

menu as well. The cheese<br />

platter is recommended.<br />

High end Brasserie Lipp (p. 27) could<br />

rival many a Parisian brasserie,<br />

serving standards like<br />

mussels with french fries or<br />

oysters. For an after-dinner<br />

cocktail, take the elevator up<br />

to the Jules Verne panorama<br />

bar with a stunning view over<br />

the city.<br />

Unexpected The restaurant Clouds (p.<br />

29) on the top of Zurich’s –<br />

nay, Switzerland’s! – tallest<br />

building is definitely worth a<br />

visit, for the view as well as<br />

for the food. And how high up<br />

are we here? A mere 126m<br />

– a giant for Zurich, a dwarf<br />

if you’re familiar with other<br />

urban centres.<br />

Club Gonzo (p. 38) is one of<br />

Zurich's most happening underground<br />

hangouts. This small rock<br />

and pop club in a cellar is worth<br />

queuing for. A dance floor, a bar<br />

and a constantly overcrowded<br />

smokers’ room are ready for<br />

some serious rock’n’roll with you.<br />

Gentlemen, start your engines!<br />

For really cheap drinks, go to<br />

BQM (Leonhardstrasse 34, F-2),<br />

a student's bar situated in the<br />

main building of the Swiss Federal<br />

<strong>In</strong>stitute of Technology ETH (just a<br />

5-minute walk from Central). With<br />

beer at 3.60Sfr and cocktails at<br />

9.40Sfr this is definitely one of the<br />

cheapest places in town (closed<br />

on weekends).<br />

All the important sports events<br />

on big screen, pub food, many<br />

different beers on tap and a very<br />

international crowd (and yes, not<br />

just lads but ladies too!) - you'll<br />

find it all at the Oliver Twist pub<br />

(see p. 37).<br />

The easy bar with the difficult<br />

name – Schmuklerski (p. 35) is<br />

a nice place for good coffee and<br />

good conversation with a large<br />

bar menu if the talking makes you<br />

hungry. Of course, you can also<br />

come in the evening and there’s<br />

a restaurant too.<br />

The Sein bar (p. 36) close to<br />

Bahnhofstrasse is a stylish bar<br />

with a well assorted wine menu<br />

and a wonderful selection of unconventional<br />

tapas – for instance<br />

sturgeon carpaccio or mince veal<br />

with romanesco broccoli.<br />

How did that one go? <strong>In</strong> Switzerland<br />

they make fizzy drinks from<br />

milk. But wait, it's no joke. Rivella<br />

is the Swiss answer to Coca Cola,<br />

you can get it at most shops and<br />

restaurants and actually its not<br />

that bad. Made of milk serum,<br />

it doesn't look like mik and is<br />

supposed to be quite healthy too.<br />

Browsing through titbits and treasures<br />

at the Kanzlei fleamarket<br />

(p. 45) is a prototypical Saturday<br />

morning for a Zurich local – especially<br />

if it’s followed by a large café<br />

latte in one of the happening bars<br />

around Helvetiaplatz.<br />

Some of Zurich’s main sights<br />

come for free: A must see are the<br />

Giacometti murals in the main<br />

police station (p. 41) - they're<br />

overwhelming. Or if it’s foggy<br />

outside, go and check if there is<br />

sun on Zurich’s own little mountain<br />

Uetliberg (p. 42): either walk up or<br />

spend some francs on a train ticket<br />

and hike back down to the city (45<br />

minutes only).<br />

Ice hockey is a big thing in<br />

Switzerland and the season’s<br />

just started. Feel the heat when<br />

Zurich’s ZSC Lions play against<br />

their rivals. Matches are at the<br />

Hallenstadion (Wallisellenstrasse<br />

45, O-1), just next to Oerlikon<br />

station and start at 19:45 on 2, 9,<br />

19, 23, 26 Oct and on 13, 16, 20<br />

and 24 Nov.<br />

If the weather is particularly awful,<br />

a visit to one of Zurich’s most special<br />

cinemas is a good option. At<br />

the Xenix (p. 15) you can take your<br />

drink in from the bar and watch the<br />

film snuggled up on a couch with<br />

your loved one.<br />

Zurich’s new spa (p. 48) in the<br />

former brewery is impressive – but<br />

when it gets busy it isn’t as relaxing<br />

as it could be. You can escape the<br />

bustle by ordering the Toi et Moi<br />

package, 90 minutes for two in a<br />

private bath, including a glass of<br />

prosecco and massages.<br />

So you've always wanted to be<br />

a rock star? This is your chance!<br />

Every Tuesday night the Karaoke<br />

From Hell show is staged at the<br />

Mascotte club (p. 36). A live<br />

band accompanies anything you<br />

choose to sing - as long as it's rock<br />

or heavy metal! Even if you don’t<br />

want to hit the stage it's a load of<br />

head-banging fun.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Zurich is a business destination first and foremost<br />

- and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to<br />

Monday morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not take<br />

advantage of this and spend a weekend in one of the<br />

many four- and five-star hotels in the city? Despite this,<br />

accommodation in Zurich remains rather pricey and real<br />

budget accommodation is rare. But nevertheless there is<br />

something for any taste and almost any budget.<br />

<strong>In</strong> Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with<br />

stars from one to five. The categorization is done by<br />

hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel<br />

can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating<br />

a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels<br />

according to their official classification in the following<br />

categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Midrange***<br />

and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification<br />

we list pensions - usually small and with less services<br />

than a hotel - and some of the hostels in town. The prices<br />

indicated include VAT. The city tax is 2.50Sfr per night and<br />

is usually additional.<br />

One grand hotel after another: Eden au Lac<br />

and Steigenberger Bellerive au Lac. PD<br />

Cream of the Crop<br />

Eden au Lac F-6, Utoquai 45, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel. +41<br />

44 266 25 25, fax +41 44 266 25 00, info@edenaulac.ch,<br />

www.edenaulac.ch. Since 1909 the five-star Eden au<br />

Lac has been the temporary home of some of Zurich‘s<br />

most distinguished guests. <strong>In</strong> a listed, Art-Nouveau style<br />

building, the hotel exudes a luxury old-world charm. As the<br />

name suggests, the lake promenade is just across the<br />

road. The rooms have high ceilings and tasteful furnishings.<br />

Many of them come with a balcony or a terrace looking out<br />

onto the lake - with a view of the Alps, if visibility is good.<br />

There are junior suites and suites with a separate room for<br />

your business meetings. For families, some rooms can be<br />

connected by means of an additional door in the entrance<br />

area. Every Thursday there is live jazz in the Eden Bar on<br />

the ground floor and in the restaurant Eden chef Giuseppe<br />

Storniolo definitely has more to offer than just his good<br />

reputation. Q50 rooms (singles 450 - 590Sfr, doubles<br />

690 - 765Sfr, business suite 1180Sfr). Breakfast 40Sfr,<br />

Wi-fi 6 Sfr/1hr, 26Sfr/24hrs. PJHAR6ULKDW<br />

hhhhh<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

Park Hyatt Zurich D-5, Beethoven-Strasse 21,<br />

8Stockerstrasse, tel. +41 43 883 12 34, fax +41 43 883<br />

12 35, zurich.park@hyatt.com, zurich.park.hyatt.ch. The<br />

luxury Park Hyatt built in 2004 in the middle of Zurich’s business<br />

district will impress you. The very spacious standard rooms<br />

have full-height windows, free-standing sea-shell bathtubs, a<br />

B&O sound and TV system and more. As it’s just a short walk<br />

to Bahnhofstrasse or to the lake, the Park Hyatt is just as<br />

good a choice for your business trip as it is for exploring Zurich.<br />

Needless to say there is a first-class restaurant (parkhuus)<br />

and an upmarket bar (Onyx Bar) on the ground floor, as well<br />

as a spa with sauna and steam bath. If a standard room<br />

doesn’t quite match your needs, there are executive and<br />

deluxe rooms and suites with uncountable amenities. Q142<br />

rooms (singles 490 - 1050Sfr, 130 doubles 640 - 1200Sfr, 11<br />

suites 1790 - 4400Sfr, 1 presidential suite 5500 - 6400Sfr).<br />

PJHAR6ULKDXW hhhhh<br />

Widder E-3, Rennweg 7, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 224 25<br />

26, fax +41 44 224 24 24, reservations@widderhotel.ch,<br />

www.widderhotel.ch. The fabulous Widder is situated in<br />

nine former residential houses in the mediaeval old town, with<br />

the prestigious Bahnhofstrasse just around the corner. Each<br />

of the 49 rooms is different in layout and atmosphere. Many<br />

have traces of historical paintings which were brought to new<br />

life when the hotel was built in over ten years of work. Some<br />

rooms have modern elements which contrast with the ancient<br />

walls and beams. Others are furnished with antiques and<br />

look more classical. Some rooms have a private roof terrace<br />

with views over the old town towards the lake and the Alps.<br />

Naturally they all have the latest entertainment technology<br />

and bathrooms to dream of. Q49 rooms (22 singles 560 -<br />

610Sfr, 16 doubles 755 - 935Sfr, 9 suites 1420 - 2100Sfr, 1<br />

family room 1175Sfr, 1 presidential suite 3800Sfr). Breakfast<br />

32Sfr, Wi-fi free. PJHAR6UFLKW hhhhh<br />

Zurich Marriott Hotel E-1, Neumühlequai 42, 8Beckenhof,<br />

tel. +41 44 360 70 70, fax +41 44 360 77 77, marriott<br />

.zurich@marriotthotels.com, www.zurichmarriott.com.<br />

The views from the rooms in the main tower of the Zürich Marriott<br />

Hotel just next to the main train station are breathtaking. The old<br />

town, the river, the lake, it’s all there just outside your window. The<br />

rooms with their light walls and dark wood furniture are modern<br />

and elegant and come with quite some technology. If you would<br />

like more space or an additional seating area, upgrade your<br />

room to superior or executive category (the latter with 24 hour<br />

access to the Executive Lounge). There is of course a gym with<br />

sauna and solarium. The in-house bar 42, the Swiss restaurant<br />

eCHo and the Thai restaurant White Elephant make for a real<br />

first class experience. Event facilities for up to 600 persons<br />

available. Q264 rooms (42 singles 235 - 410Sfr, 103 doubles<br />

245 - 535Sfr, 8 suites 550 - 950Sfr, 30 junior suites 355 - 565Sfr,<br />

1 business suite 950 - 1750Sfr). Breakfast 39Sfr, Wi-fi 35Sfr per<br />

day. PJHA6UFLKDW international chain hotel<br />

Symbol key<br />

P Air-conditioning A Credit cards accepted<br />

T Child friendly H Conference facilities<br />

R <strong>In</strong>ternet in room U Facilities for the disabled<br />

F Fitness centre L Parking on site<br />

K Restaurant 8 Nearest tram station<br />

D Sauna C Swimming pool<br />

6 Animal friendly<br />

J City centre location<br />

W Wi-fi connection<br />

October - November 2012<br />

21


22 WHERE TO STAY<br />

Upmarket<br />

Crowne Plaza Badenerstrasse 420, 8Letzigrund,<br />

tel. +41 44 404 44 44, fax +41 44 404 44 40,<br />

info@cpzurich.ch, www.cpzurich.ch. The Crowne<br />

Plaza is situated close to the Letzigrund stadium 13<br />

minutes (8 stops) from the city centre by tram. The<br />

365 rooms have all just been completely refurbished<br />

and now come in a mix of bright and light brown hues,<br />

with either a queen-size or two twin-size beds, a shower<br />

or a bathtub and free tea and coffee making facilities.<br />

Upgrade your room to a deluxe for more work space<br />

and a couch lounge. There is a 2000sqm fitness<br />

centre with sauna for the use of hotel guest’s, including<br />

an indoor pool. For lunch or dinner, the two in-house<br />

restaurants Relais des Arts and Letzileu tend to your<br />

needs. Q365 rooms (313 doubles 140 - 490Sfr, 2<br />

suites 400 - 820Sfr, 9 Junior suites 310 - 710Sfr, 34<br />

Deluxe rooms 250 - 650Sfr). Breakfast 33Sfr, Wi-fi incl.<br />

PHAR6UFLBKDCW hhhh<br />

NEW<br />

Helmhaus F-4, Schifflände 30, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44<br />

266 95 95, fax +41 44 266 95 66, hotel@helmhaus.ch,<br />

www.helmhaus.ch. Centrally located in a historic building<br />

next to Wasserkirche the rooms of this small and personal<br />

hotel have a classy starkness which is eased by the drawings<br />

of Swiss artist Gisèle Mengis. The floors are panelled with<br />

dark wood, and many of the bathrooms have been renovated<br />

recently. The Superior Room category offers some extra<br />

space while the Design rooms on the fifth floor show an<br />

individual touch. Soundproof windows that really deserve the<br />

name make sure you enjoy a good night’s sleep. Q24 rooms<br />

(8 singles 225 - 320Sfr, 16 doubles 310 - 470Sfr). Breakfast<br />

and Wi-fi included. PJAW<br />

Holiday <strong>In</strong>n Zurich Messe O-2, Wallisellenstrasse<br />

48, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, tel. +41 44 316 11 00,<br />

fax +41 44 316 11 01, info@hi-zm.ch, www.holidayinn<br />

.com/zurichmesse. The Holiday <strong>In</strong>n opened in 2009<br />

and lies just opposite Zurich‘s biggest indoor concert and<br />

sports venue Hallenstadion and the exhibition grounds in<br />

Zurich Nord. A good choice for your business trip. The city<br />

centre is just 15 minutes away by tram. The rooms all<br />

feature dark parquet, Wi-fi, a kettle for free instant coffee<br />

and tea, a safe and a TV. Of course one wall is painted<br />

in the Holiday <strong>In</strong>n‘s trademark bright green. If you prefer<br />

more space, a real coffee machine and a minibar, ask for<br />

an executive room. There is a gym, a bar and a restaurant<br />

on the ground floor, and room service. Q164 rooms (164<br />

doubles 147 - 299Sfr). Breakfast 24Sfr, Wi-fi included.<br />

PHAR6UFLKW hhhh<br />

Krone Unterstrass & Townhouse N-6,<br />

Schaffhauserstrasse 1, 8Kronenstrasse, tel. +41 44<br />

360 56 56, fax +41 44 360 56 00, info@hotel-krone.ch,<br />

www.hotel-krone.ch. Just three stops by tram from the<br />

main train station and the city centre, this four-star hotel<br />

is conveniently located for leisure and business stays. The<br />

Langstrasse district with popular bars and restaurants is in<br />

walking distance. The rooms are bright and modern and rates<br />

are moderate. The newly built Townhouse is located in the<br />

courtyard with studios and junior suites with huge windows,<br />

all equipped with a kitchenette, a coffee machine and an<br />

iron - perfect for longer stays, as it combines the advantages<br />

of an apartment with the services of a hotel. There is a<br />

Mediterranean restaurant and a separate bar. Q76 rooms<br />

(40 singles 185 - 210Sfr, 29 doubles 260 - 320Sfr, 5 triples<br />

350Sfr, 2 junior suites 450Sfr). Breakfast 19Sfr, Wi-fi included.<br />

PHA6ULKW hhhh<br />

Opera F-5, Dufourstrasse 5, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41 44 258<br />

99 99, fax +41 44 258 99 00, welcome@operahotel.ch,<br />

www.operahotel.ch. The twin of the Ambassador just<br />

across the street is slightly more modern in style, but still<br />

very classical. From the generous lobby, two staircases<br />

lead to the rooms which were all renovated between 2003<br />

and 2010. Wired internet is complimentary. Located in the<br />

fashionable Seefeld district, this is a convenient place to<br />

stay not only for a visit to Zurich‘s opera: Bahnhofstrasse<br />

with its boutiques is just two tram stops away. If you get<br />

a room on the third floor or higher you might even get a<br />

glimpse of the lake. Q58 rooms (28 singles 198 - 395Sfr, 30<br />

doubles 330 - 490Sfr). Breakfast 26Sfr, Wi-fi 25Sfr/24hrs.<br />

PJAR6LW hhhh<br />

Sheraton Zurich Neues Schloss Hotel D-5,<br />

Stockerstrasse 17, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. +41 44 286 94<br />

00, fax +41 44 286 94 45, neuesschloss@sheraton.com,<br />

www.sheratonneuesschloss.ch. This hotel in a landmark<br />

building in Zurich’s financial district was renovated in 2009.<br />

The rooms are decorated with tasteful yellow and brown hues<br />

and artistic photos of Zurich. A kettle, a safe, a minibar and an<br />

iron and board are provided. High-speed internet costs extra,<br />

but you can surf the web for free at the workstations in the<br />

lobby. The lake and the old town are both only a five-minute<br />

walk away, so the Sheraton Neues Schloss is not only a good<br />

choice for your business stay but for a weekend trip as well.<br />

On the top floor there are five suites, all with balconies.Q60<br />

rooms (singles 270 - 620Sfr, doubles 270 - 620Sfr, suites<br />

460 - 1200Sfr). Breakfast 20-39Sfr, internet 28Sfr/24hrs.<br />

PJHAR6ULKW hhhh<br />

The spire of the Prediger church in Niederdorf. AM<br />

Steigenberger Hotel Bellerive au Lac G-6, Utoquai<br />

47, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel. +41 44 254 40 00, fax +41 44<br />

254 40 01, bellerive@steigenberger.ch, www.zuerich<br />

.steigenberger.ch. The Steigenberger is a four-star superior<br />

hotel situated directly on the lake, only a few tramstops from<br />

Bahnhofstrasse. Swiss designer Tilla Theus has carefully<br />

restored the historic hotel, mixing art deco elements like<br />

lush leather-padded walls and delicate, geometric wooden<br />

side-boards with discrete contemporary styling, such as in the<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

bathrooms finished in rock. A small spa area offers sauna and<br />

solarium for your recreation. The elegant in-house restaurant<br />

du Lac offers views of the lake and a range of classy meat<br />

and fish dishes, while the gentlemen’s club atmosphere of<br />

the Bellerive lounge makes it a good place to wind down<br />

your day. Q51 rooms (14 singles 260 - 425Sfr, 33 doubles<br />

330 - 495Sfr, 1 suite 950 - 1200Sfr, 3 junior suites 550 -<br />

650Sfr). Breakfast 35Sfr, Wi-fi and wired internet 25Sfr/24hrs.<br />

PJHAR6UFLKDW hhhh<br />

St. Gotthard E-2, Bahnhofstr. 87, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB,<br />

tel. +41 44 227 77 00, fax +41 44 227 77 50, reservation@<br />

hotelstgotthard.ch, www.hotelstgotthard.ch.<br />

From many of the rooms of this traditional family-run hotel<br />

you get a view straight onto Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s most<br />

famous shopping street. Perfect for watching the hustle and<br />

bustle. The rooms are decorated modern with bright yellow<br />

and golden colours. All of them feature a kettle for coffee and<br />

tea. There is a sauna and a massage room for your recreation.<br />

The in-house Hummer bar servest seafood in a traditional,<br />

elegant atmosphere. The lobby restaurant and the Manzoni<br />

coffee bar with its outdoor seating make this hotel just two<br />

minutes from the main train station complete. Q138 rooms<br />

(31 singles 158 - 421Sfr, 99 doubles 192 - 529Sfr, 8 suites<br />

375 - 1078Sfr). PJHAR6LBKDW hhhh<br />

Mid-range<br />

Alexander F-3, Niederdorfstrasse 40, 8Rudolf-Brun-<br />

Brücke, tel. +41 44 251 82 03, fax +41 44 252 74<br />

25, info@hotel-alexander.ch, www.hotel-alexander.ch.<br />

The Alexander is an intimate three-star hotel with newly<br />

renovated rooms (February 2012). They now come with dark<br />

wooden flooring and sand-coloured bathrooms with LED<br />

lights. They also have a safe, a flat-screen TV and free Wi-fi<br />

throughout. The location in the Niederdorf nightlife area is very<br />

central (five minutes walk to the main train station). This doesn‘t<br />

make it the quietest of places, but the windows are soundproof.<br />

Most rooms have air-conditioning. The Alexander also has a<br />

two-star guest house around the corner. Q41 rooms (5 singles<br />

150 - 200Sfr, 32 doubles 210 - 300Sfr, 4 triples 230 - 320Sfr).<br />

Breakfast included, free Wi-fi. PJALW hhh<br />

City D-3, Löwenstrasse 34, 8Löwenplatz, tel. +41 44<br />

217 17 17, fax +41 44 217 18 18, hotelcity@hotelcity.ch,<br />

www.hotelcity.ch. A central choice with Bahnhofstrasse<br />

and the old town in walking distance. The economy single<br />

rooms are small, but come at a moderate price. For stays<br />

longer than two nights we recommend a standard room<br />

which gives you more space and air-conditioning. All rooms<br />

come with a kettle for tea and coffee. The bathrooms<br />

were renovated recently so you can now admire yourself<br />

in a mirror lit with fancy LEDs. Small rooftop terrace for<br />

your coffee break. Q61 rooms (32 singles 155 - 275Sfr,<br />

29 doubles 250 - 370Sfr). Breakfast and Wi-fi included.<br />

PJHAR6KW hhh<br />

Comfort Hotel Royal F-2, Leonhardstrasse 6,<br />

8Haldenegg, tel. +41 44 266 59 59, fax +41 44 266<br />

59 60, office@comfortinn.ch, www.comfortinn.ch.<br />

This hotel offers affordable, rather small non-smoking rooms<br />

at a good three-star standard, only five minutes walk away<br />

from the main train station and ETH / University. The tram<br />

that stops in front of the entrance takes you directly to the<br />

airport. The panorama rooms have huge windows and offer a<br />

great view towards the Uetliberg, Zurich‘s own little mountain.<br />

Smoker‘s lounge. Q70 rooms (40 singles 125 - 185Sfr, 28<br />

doubles 180 - 280Sfr, 2 suites 320 - 360Sfr). Breakfast<br />

included, wired internet 18Sfr/24hrs, Wi-fi 5Sfr/30min.<br />

PJAR6XW hhh<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

Meet the concierge<br />

The concierges of the<br />

city’s hotels are an important<br />

source of information.<br />

Good concierges will<br />

be able to find answers to<br />

almost all your questions.<br />

For this issue, Antonio<br />

Del Buono gave away<br />

some of his secrets to us.<br />

He has been concierge at<br />

the St. Gotthard Zürich<br />

for 16 years and a member<br />

of the Swiss concierge<br />

association Clefs d’ Or<br />

Suisse since 12 years.<br />

What do you like best about being a concierge?<br />

It is like being on the theatre stage every day. Every<br />

minute you can be faced with a different situation. You<br />

have to play your role. It is a lot of fun. You have direct<br />

contact with important people who are visiting us and<br />

also from the city.<br />

What was the most extraordinary request a guest<br />

ever put to you?<br />

One of our guests was stranded one day in Rome due to<br />

strikes. He called me from there as he did not know what<br />

to do, how to reach his country and could not speak any<br />

Italian. I had to find a way for him to come to Switzerland<br />

and fly from Zürich to the USA.<br />

What do you personally like about Zurich?<br />

It is really a small big city. Big enough to find all you<br />

need. Restaurants, happening bars, shops, museums.<br />

Small enough to have almost everything in walking<br />

distance and still enjoy the peaceful and calm daily life<br />

of a small city.<br />

What is not to miss in Zurich? Especially in autumn?<br />

Stroll along world-famous Bahnhofstrasse all the<br />

way to the lake and take a 1.5 hour short boat tour<br />

to make the most of the changing colours of nature<br />

during autumn.<br />

Which restaurants and bars do you recommend?<br />

Restaurant Ciro: It is certainly not the fanciest place but a<br />

romantic, cozy family restaurant in walking distance from<br />

Bahnhofstrasse and the main railway station. Here you<br />

are in the most authentic north Italian restaurant where<br />

you get the best homemade pasta in town. Bar-Lounge<br />

Hiltl: Europe’s first vegetarian restaurant founded in<br />

1898. A very popular place where the guests meet at<br />

the bar for an after-work drink.<br />

What makes the hotel St. Gotthard special?<br />

Our best location, right on world-famous Bahnhofstrasse,<br />

in the middle of the banking and shopping area. Our over<br />

120 years of traditional personalized service. Our finedining<br />

fish restaurant ‘Lobster & Oyster Bar/Restaurant’.<br />

Our 138 recently renovated rooms and suites including<br />

the 100m 2 St. Gotthard Suite which is the largest on<br />

Bahnhofstrasse.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> is...<br />

...the best information tool in English about where to go,<br />

what to visit, where to sleep, eat and drink and have fun.<br />

October - November 2012<br />

23


24 WHERE TO STAY<br />

Du Théâtre F-3, Seilergraben 69, 8Central, tel. +41 44<br />

267 26 70, fax +41 44 267 26 71, info@hotel-du-theatre.ch,<br />

www.hotel-du-theatre.ch. This three-star design hotel is<br />

located very centrally, at the beginning of the Niederdorf<br />

old-town district. The building has an irregular shape, giving<br />

each room a different layout. The actors’ quotes woven into<br />

the carpets and pictures from the one-time theatre next door<br />

(now a cinema) recall the building‘s past in an interesting<br />

way. The rooms are rather small, but elegant. Soundproof<br />

windows. Q50 rooms (31 singles 145 - 215Sfr, 17 doubles<br />

205 - 310Sfr, 2 mini-suites 265 - 340Sfr). Breakfast 18Sfr,<br />

Wi-fi 8Sfr/hr. JA6ULBKW hhh<br />

A view from the Rudolf-Brun bridge across the River<br />

Limmat. www.juanrubiano.com<br />

Sorell Seefeld G-6, Seefeldstrasse 63,<br />

8Feldeggstrasse, tel. +41 44 387 41 41, fax +41 44<br />

387 41 51, info@hotelseefeld.ch, www.hotelseefeld.ch.<br />

The Seefeld is a fully equipped three-star superior hotel<br />

located just 200 metres from the lake in the Seefeld district.<br />

All rooms have parquet floor, soundproof windows and some<br />

also have a balcony. The grand-lit rooms feature beds with<br />

a width of 1.6 metres and can be used by two for a small<br />

surcharge; real double rooms are larger. There is a gym,<br />

room service and a tram stop right on your door-step. No<br />

air-conditioning, but an air cooling system. Q64 rooms (15<br />

singles 190 - 300Sfr, 49 doubles 200 - 450Sfr). Breakfast<br />

included, Wi-fi 25Sfr for 24h. HA6FLW hhh<br />

Budget<br />

Limmathof F-2, Limmatquai 142, 8Central, tel. +41 44<br />

267 60 40, fax +41 44 262 02 17, info@limmathof.com,<br />

www.limmathof.com. The Limmathof is centrally located at<br />

the entrance to Niederdorf, close to the main train station and<br />

most of Zurich‘s sights. The rooms are plain and the furniture<br />

is a little long in the tooth - but all clean with nice wooden<br />

floors and soundproof windows. There is a TV and a shower<br />

or a bathtub in every room. Wi-fi can be used for free in the<br />

common area. Not a modern hotel, but quite cheap for it‘s<br />

location. Q55 rooms (16 singles 125 - 145Sfr, 35 doubles<br />

168 - 185Sfr, 4 triples 190 - 240Sfr). Basic breakfast included,<br />

free Wi-fi in the lobby. JA6K hh<br />

Marta F-3, Zähringerstrasse 36, 8Central, tel. +41 44<br />

269 95 95, fax +41 44 269 95 90, info@hotelmarta.ch,<br />

www.hotelmarta.ch. The marta is a functional hotel, very<br />

centrally located in the Niederdorf, just a few minutes away<br />

from the main train station. It was completely refurbished<br />

in 2010 and the blue coloured rooms have a modern feel<br />

now. There is a twin bed, a bathroom with shower and a<br />

flatscreen tv in every room, as well as Wi-fi throughout the<br />

hotel. The hotel is run by a non-profit cooperation, giving<br />

socially challenged women an opportunity to work. There<br />

is no air-conditioning but ventilators. Q39 rooms (singles<br />

110 - 180Sfr, doubles 150 - 230Sfr, triples 225 - 260Sfr).<br />

Breakfast and Wi-fi incl. JHA6UW hh<br />

Pensions<br />

Zum Guten Glück B-3, Stationsstrasse 7, 8Kalkbreite,<br />

tel. +41 43 540 72 99, contact@zumgutenglueck.ch,<br />

www.zumgutenglueck.ch. Opened in 2008, this lovely<br />

pension offers basic rooms with shared showers and<br />

bathrooms and sixties and seventies style furniture. Check-in<br />

is at the coffee bar on the ground floor. The next tram stop<br />

is close by and the tram takes eight minutes to get to the<br />

main train station. The surroundings are about to change,<br />

as a major road has just been closed to transit traffic. New<br />

shops and bars have already opened in the area. Good choice<br />

if you are looking for cheap accommodation. Q10 rooms (2<br />

singles 59Sfr, 8 doubles 79 - 109Sfr). Wi-fi included. AKW<br />

Hostels<br />

Langstars C-2, Langstrasse 120, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41<br />

43 317 96 55, info@langstars.com, www.langstars.ch.<br />

This hostel is situated right on Langstrasse, the city’s top<br />

street for bar-hopping and nightlife. The six dorms, one<br />

women-only, are rather tight but feature big lockers, reading<br />

lamps, toilets and showers. One even has a little terrace.<br />

The bar on the ground floor is a good place to get talking to<br />

other travellers - as a guest of the hostel you get a discount<br />

on drinks. As an avid traveller himself, owner Lukas knows<br />

what makes a good stay. He and his staff will be happy to<br />

help wherever they can. Q (bunk beds in dorm 42 - 50Sfr).<br />

Breakfast (buffet) and Wi-fi included. AEW<br />

Youth Hostel Mutschellenstrasse 114, 8Morgental,<br />

tel. +41 43 399 78 00, fax +41 43 399 78 01,<br />

zuerich@youthhostel.ch, www.youthostel.ch/zuerich.<br />

This modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms with<br />

bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All rooms have a<br />

small vestibule where lockers and the washbasin are located<br />

- so latecomers don‘t wake up the rest. There are also private<br />

doubles and four-bed rooms with en-suite bathrooms. 24<br />

hours reception and cheap meals (18.50Sfr incl. soft drink).<br />

It‘s just a five-minute walk to the lake and 15 min by tram to<br />

the centre. On the weekends a night bus (N°12) stops right<br />

in front of the hostel all night long. Great place to meet other<br />

travellers. Q76 rooms (16 doubles 138Sfr, 50 triples 158 -<br />

173Sfr, 200 beds in 4- or 6-bed rooms 40 - 50Sfr). Hostelling<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternational membership required: a day’s membership 6Sfr,<br />

yearly member card 33Sfr. Linen, breakfast and city tax<br />

included, Wi-fi free in public area. HAUKW<br />

Airport hotel<br />

Welcome <strong>In</strong>n Holbergstrasse 1, Kloten, tel. +41<br />

44 804 75 75, fax +41 44 270 80 60, welcomeinn<br />

@welcomegroup.ch, www.hotel-welcomeinn.ch. The<br />

Welcome <strong>In</strong>n is a functional three-star hotel close to the<br />

airport. The rooms are decorated in a simple style and<br />

have dark carpets. They feature a lounge seat, a desk, a<br />

safe and a minibar. The in-house restaurant Kanzlei majors<br />

on meat specialities and seasonal fare. They have a free<br />

shuttle bus to the airport and free car parking on site. There<br />

is a ventilation system, but no air-conditioning. Q98 rooms<br />

(8 singles 105 - 180Sfr, 79 doubles 110 - 200Sfr, 9 triples<br />

120 - 220Sfr, 2 suites 160 - 260Sfr). Breakfast 15Sfr, Wi-fi<br />

incl., free car parking. HAR6ULKW hhh<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Zurich has around 1,500 restaurants, bars and<br />

takeaways. No wonder you can find almost any kind of<br />

food imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to traditional<br />

Vietnamese, from Lebanese to Japanese and back again.<br />

But today many restaurants also cook in a mélange,<br />

international style and are not easily categorized.<br />

Nevertheless we have tried. We list the places we<br />

recommend within any particular category. The prices in<br />

brackets indicate the cheapest and most expensive main<br />

courses. For lunch, lots of restaurants offer special deals,<br />

usually considerably cheaper. Note that many restaurants<br />

close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30<br />

and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. The letter and<br />

the number (e.g. A-1) after the venue name indicate the<br />

coordinates for finding it on the map in the back of this<br />

guide.<br />

The market-hall atmosphere of the, eh, Markthalle (p. 31).<br />

American<br />

Helvti Diner D-3, Kasernenstrasse 2, 8Stauffacher, tel.<br />

+41 43 322 04 24, www.helvti-diner.ch. Quarterpounders,<br />

hot dogs, sandwiches, French fries and some salads - the<br />

menu of the Helvti Diner has a distinctly American flavour.<br />

But it’s not just the menu; the long bar and the aluminum<br />

stools conjour up some prototypical hollywood film scene. A<br />

screen made of ketchup bottles adds a fancy touch - as well<br />

as the dark red and purple tones of the tables and stools.<br />

The burgers come with a sauce of your choice and were in the<br />

best of taste at our visit - while the consistency of the fries left<br />

some room for improvement. All day brunch on Sat. Q Open<br />

10:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun closed. Kitchen<br />

open until 23:00, Thu - Sat until 01:00. (16 - 33Sfr). JA<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

PD<br />

RESTAURANTS<br />

Symbol key<br />

A Credit cards accepted X Smoker lounge<br />

S Take away E Live music<br />

J City centre location N No credit cards<br />

8 Nearest tram station<br />

B Outdoor seating<br />

C-1 Map coordinates<br />

Popcorn A-4, Friesenbergstr. 15, 8Goldbrunnenplatz,<br />

tel. +41 43 960 73 73, www.hotel-neufeld.ch. The rear half<br />

of a classic American automobile next to the entrance of the<br />

Popcorn says it all - this is an American diner. But the menu is a<br />

bit more sophisticated than you might expect: classic and spicy<br />

tatar, home-mada pasta or <strong>In</strong>dian lamb curry. But don’t worry: a<br />

burger with fries is available as well. For lunch, the menu changes<br />

daily. The old American cars are present inside the restaurant<br />

as well - on huge black and white photo posters. Daily breakfast<br />

buffet (06:00 - 10:00, Sun & Sat 07:00 - 11:00). Q Open 06:00<br />

- 23:00, Sat & Sun breakfast only (07:00 - 11:00), kitchen open<br />

11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. (15 - 32Sfr). AB<br />

Asian<br />

Blue Monkey F-3, Stüssihofstatt 3, 8Rathaus, tel. +41<br />

44 261 76 18, www.bluemonkey.ch. Choose between the<br />

Thai Bistro on the ground floor (open all day) or the Thai Heaven<br />

upstairs: in heaven you will get your meals served in bowls on<br />

a candlelight heater in a more refined atmosphere - while the<br />

bistro is cheaper and more for a quick eat, though you won’t<br />

feel uncomfortable staying longer. Curries, salads, soups and<br />

wok dishes - everything cooked by the kitchen staff who are<br />

actually Thai. Food is rather pricey but the style, atmosphere<br />

and cooking in the Blue Monkey is more upmarket than in most<br />

Thais in Zurich. There is a smoker’s bar on the ground floor.<br />

QOpen 11:30 - 14:00, 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 14:00, 17:00<br />

- 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 14:00, 17:30 - 02:00, Sat 15:00 - 02:00,<br />

Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (28 - 46 Sfr, bistro cheaper). JABX<br />

Lily’s C-1, Langstrasse 197, 8Limmatplatz, tel. +41 44<br />

440 18 85, www.lilys.ch. Freshly prepared Asian treats:<br />

from Thailand through Vietnam to China and Japan, and back<br />

to <strong>In</strong>dia. Not exactly the place for a long, cosy dinner with<br />

your friends but great for a quick, fresh and tasty meal - you’ll<br />

be seated on long benches in between other customers. If<br />

you get a seat close to the open kitchen you feel the heat<br />

when the chef flames some stuff in his wok. Try the excellent<br />

salmon teriyaki from the grill or one of the curries Lily’s is<br />

famous for. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 01:00,<br />

Sun 11:00 - 22:30. (19 - 23Sfr). AS<br />

October - November 2012<br />

25


26 RESTAURANTS<br />

Mishio E-3, Sihlstrasse 9, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 228<br />

76 76, www.mishio.ch. Fast and tasty Thai, Vietnamese<br />

and Chinese dishes, that’s what you get at Mishio. Choose<br />

between noodles, curries or dishes from the wok, everything<br />

cooked by the all-Asian staff in the open kitchen. The curries<br />

(tofu, duck, shrimps, chicken or beef) can be ordered mild,<br />

medium or spicy, as you prefer. And spicy here really means<br />

spicy, believe us. Exactly how we like it. Sister restaurant at<br />

Stadelhoferstrasse 10 (G-5), +41 44 252 42 95. Q Open<br />

06:30-23:00. Closed Sun. (23 - 30Sfr). JAB<br />

Tiffins G-6, Seefeldstrasse 61, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel.<br />

+41 44 382 18 88, www.tiffins.ch. Very popular Asian<br />

restaurant in the Seefeld district where you can watch the<br />

cooks in the open kitchen prepare your meal. The menu<br />

Decoding the menu<br />

General terms<br />

Käse cheese<br />

Knoblauch garlic<br />

paniert breaded<br />

Pfeffer pepper<br />

Rahm cream<br />

Salz salt<br />

Senf mustard<br />

Zucker sugar<br />

Fleisch Meat<br />

Braten roast<br />

Bratwurst sausage<br />

Ente duck<br />

Hackbraten meatloaf<br />

Kalb veal (or calf)<br />

Lamm lamb<br />

Poulet, Hühnchen chicken<br />

Rind beef<br />

Schnitzel cutlet, often breaded<br />

Schwein pork<br />

Truthahn turkey<br />

Ghackets mince meat<br />

Geschnetzeltes meat in bite-size pieces<br />

Leber(li) liver<br />

Fisch Fish<br />

Egli European perch<br />

Forelle trout<br />

Felchen common whitefish<br />

Lachs salmon<br />

Beilagen Side dishes<br />

Aubergine aubergine, egg plant<br />

Blumenkohl cauliflower<br />

Bratkartoffeln roast potatoes<br />

Brötchen bread roll<br />

Erbsen peas<br />

Kartoffeln potatoes<br />

Nudeln pasta<br />

Pilze mushrooms<br />

Pommes Frites french fries, potato chips<br />

Spargel asparagus<br />

Spätzli egg noodles<br />

Speck bacon<br />

Zwiebeln onion<br />

Dessert Desserts<br />

Apfelstrudel apple pie<br />

Berliner doughnut<br />

(Schokoladen) Kuchen (chocolate) cake<br />

Tiramisu Italian cream dessert<br />

offers a large choice ranging from Thai to Vietnamese<br />

cuisine: soups, curries, noodles, rice and salads. It is always<br />

very noisy - not a place for a private chat with your business<br />

partner but perfect for quick and tasty Asian food. Seating<br />

is on long wooden benches. Reserving isn’t possible - just<br />

wait a few minutes at the bar until you get a table. QOpen<br />

11:00 - 22:00, Sat 16:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (17 - 25Sfr).<br />

ABS<br />

Fine dining<br />

Bü’s E-3, Kuttelgasse 15, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211<br />

94 11, www.buetique.com. Host Jörg Bühler established<br />

this little paradise for wine lovers and gourmets just next to<br />

Bahnhofstrasse in 2002. Try his well-known cordon-bleu<br />

or the tatar - or go for the menu of the day with each course<br />

accompanied by a glass of different wine (as an option). The<br />

selection of wine is immense - but don’t worry, Jörg Bühler<br />

himself is usually happy to give advice.QOpen 11:00 - 23:30,<br />

Sat 11:30 - 17:30. Closed Sun. (29 - 55Sfr). JAB<br />

NEW<br />

Café Boy A-2, Kochstrasse 2, 8Zypressenstrasse,<br />

tel. +41 44 240 40 24, www.cafeboy.ch. Despite the<br />

name, this is a restaurant and it’s not immature either.<br />

Just beyond Langstrasse, in a one-time working-class<br />

area, Café Boy occupies a newly renovated building of<br />

Bauhaus-inspired elegance from the 1910s. <strong>In</strong>side, white<br />

tablecloths, black bistro chairs and the immense windows<br />

set the scene. Dishes like smoked salmon tatar with maize<br />

blinis or venison in a hazelnut crust get our mouths watering,<br />

and there are some tasty snacky options as well. The chef<br />

uses many regional products, and the fish from further<br />

afar is sustainable. The excellent and copious selection<br />

of wines, as well as the teas and cheeses all go to prove:<br />

the boy is grown. QOpen 10:00 - 00:30, Sat & Sun closed.<br />

(19 - 48Sfr, surprise menu 66/60Sfr (vegetarian), gourmet<br />

menu 111Sfr). BA<br />

Didi’s Frieden F-2, Stampfenbachstrasse 32,<br />

8Stampfenbachplatz, tel. +41 44 253 18 10,<br />

www.didisfrieden.ch. At Didi’s you get exquisite cuisine in a<br />

genuine and not over-done atmosphere. Our evening took off<br />

splendidly with the hors d’oeuvres and then continued with<br />

the delightful four-course menu which is new every month<br />

(around 95Sfr). We had marinated king fish as starter followed<br />

by a tender piece of veal’s loin. Cooking and hospitality is a<br />

vocation here and the art-work in chocolate on the desert<br />

plates is just one of the proofs. Reservation recommended.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00.<br />

Closed Sun. (29 - 54Sfr). JAB<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Kindli E-3, Pfalzgasse 1, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 43 888<br />

76 78, www.kindli.ch. The Kindli is situated in a stately<br />

old-town house just off Rennweg and serves solid food not<br />

just from Switzerland in a refined atmosphere. At the Kindli<br />

they do everything with a little extra: the Zurich classic<br />

geschnetzeltes (veal in bite sized pieces) for example is<br />

done here with filet of veal. Besides classics there are fish<br />

and beef specialities on the menu. Leave room for a dessert:<br />

the cake is excellent. QOpen 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:30.<br />

Closed Sun. (39 - 64Sfr). JA<br />

Spice (Hotel Rigiblick) Germaniastr. 99,<br />

8Seilbahn Rigiblick, tel. +41 43 255 15 70,<br />

www.restaurantrigiblick.ch. The view up here is awesome<br />

- and so is the food. Dennis Purchert has just taken over, but<br />

seeing he was souschef until now, the Spice is bound to stay<br />

one of the city’s top restaurants. <strong>In</strong> the evening they serve<br />

9 courses from which you can compose your own menu of<br />

3 or more courses. The description of the dishes is rather<br />

cryptical, with just the ingredients mentioned such as ‘Char<br />

Peas Carrots’. This fish dish, however, turns out to be an<br />

exquisite example of exceptional cooking, a marinated filet<br />

of char on pea panna cotta with carrot. Food here does<br />

have its price, but you are at the summit. Q Open 11:30<br />

- 14:00, 18:30 - 00:30. Closed Sun & Mon. (Evening menu<br />

120 - 195Sfr, lunch menu from 56Sfr). AB<br />

French<br />

Brasserie Lipp E-3, Uraniastrasse 9, 8Rennweg, tel.<br />

+41 43 888 66 66, www.brasserie-lipp.ch. The real French<br />

brasserie experience in Zurich: sauerkraut (choucroute)<br />

with sausages, mussels with French fries, a rich choice of<br />

sea food or the tartar of course. The Art-Deco interior gives<br />

you a feeling of Paris - but it’s just next to Bahnhofstrasse.<br />

The lift takes you up to the Jules Verne panorama bar in the<br />

tower of the city’s observatory, a great place to finish your<br />

evening with a cocktail and stunning views over the city. Q<br />

Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun<br />

17:00 - 23:00. Kitchen open until 24:00 (23 - 60Sfr). JAB<br />

Mère Catherine F-4, Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41<br />

44 250 59 40, www.commercio.ch. Mother Catherine’s<br />

menu majors in classics from Provence using plenty of fish,<br />

seafood, olives and rosemary. But she also does other French<br />

classics like onion soup or snails. Filled pasta like ravioles<br />

and cappelacci, usually home-made, are also standard<br />

features. The interior with uneven walls, dark tables and<br />

white tablecloths is pleasant and the kitchen reliable. The<br />

tiny bar Le Philosophe next door is good for a quiet drink.<br />

All the fresh-water fish comes from Lake Zurich. QOpen<br />

11:30 - 24:00. Kitchen open until 22:15 (25 - 45Sfr). JAB<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

RESTAURANTS<br />

Definitely one of Zurich’s more elegant dining rooms:<br />

restaurant Kindli. PD<br />

Storchen E-4, Weinplatz 2, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 44<br />

227 27 27, www.storchen.ch. One of the classics at the<br />

stately rôtisserie of the hotel Storchen is ravioli filled with<br />

veal with a sage sauce. Excellent, really! Its available as a<br />

starter too. They also do a good zürcher geschnetzeltes<br />

with rösti (sliced veal with hash browns). Actually you can’t<br />

go wrong with anything here, be it fish or meat. On top of the<br />

exquisite cuisine, there is a lovely big terrace just next to the<br />

river with a perfect view over the river towards the old guild<br />

houses and the Grossmünster church in Niederdorf. Q Open<br />

11:45 - 24:00, kitchen open 11:45 - 14:00 & 18:00 - 21:30,<br />

small menu all day until 22:45. (32 - 67Sfr). JAB<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternational<br />

Blockhus F-4, Schifflände 4,, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 44<br />

252 14 53, www.restaurant-blockhus.ch. The rustic and<br />

solid Blockhus is an institution in the old town. The menu of<br />

the host known by everybody as Monsieur Pierre features a<br />

weird, but friendly confusion of Spanish, Swiss, Italian and even<br />

Thai dishes. One of the specialities of the house is the tartar,<br />

served in many variations. We really loved the spicy one with<br />

garlic and hot peppers. Locals and tourists are equally present<br />

here - usually a fair indicator for a good restaurant. Q Open<br />

11:30 - 24:00, Sun closed. (25 - 46Sfr). JAB<br />

Nägelihof 3 8001 Zürich<br />

at the Limmatquai nearby the Grossmünster<br />

commercio.ch T 044 250 59 40<br />

October - November 2012<br />

27


28 RESTAURANTS<br />

Cheese restaurants<br />

The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette,<br />

originally come from the French speaking areas of<br />

Switzerland. Fondue is basically a mix of melted cheese<br />

and white wine bubbling over a small burner which you dip<br />

bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted cheese<br />

which is poured over boiled potatoes. For the Swiss<br />

these are essentially winter dishes, so now’s the time<br />

to try them - the listed restaurants below are specialists.<br />

Chäsalp Tobelhofstrasse 236, 8Tobelhof (Bus<br />

751), tel. +41 44 260 75 75, www.chaesalp.ch.<br />

The Chäsalp is a former farm on top of Zürichberg,<br />

where fondue and raclette are now served in the old<br />

stable. This gives you a kind of alpine-hut experience,<br />

which makes the extra bit of travel up the hill well worth<br />

while. It’s usually very busy with tourists and locals,<br />

also on Saturdays and Sundays, when they do a good<br />

brunch. While there are 16 different kinds of fondues on<br />

offer, we recommend sticking to the house blend or the<br />

classic moitié-moité - we very much liked both. They have<br />

meat and Swiss style pasta too - but remember, it’s the<br />

cheese alp not the steak hut. Q Open 11:30 - 14:00,<br />

17:30 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (26 - 56Sfr). A<br />

Fribourger Fonduestübli C-3, Rotwandstrasse 38,<br />

8Staufffacher, tel. +41 44 241 90 76, www.fribourger<br />

-fondue-stuebli.ch. Fondue is considered a Swiss<br />

national dish, but some regions have more of a tradition<br />

than others. The canton of Fribourg prides itself on making<br />

some of the best fondues, and here you can choose<br />

between two different Fribourger cheese blends. One,<br />

moitié-moitié, is a half-half blend of gruyère and vacherin<br />

fribourgeois, two excellent cheeses which both come<br />

from Fribourg. Have a glass of white wine with your meal,<br />

but be careful not to lose the piece of bread while dipping<br />

it in the melted cheese. Real Swiss chase it with a glass<br />

of kirsch at the end to ease digestion - we suggest you<br />

just do the same. Q Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00.<br />

Kitchen open until 22:00. (28Sfr). A<br />

Le Dézaley F-4, Römergasse 7/9, 8Helmhaus,<br />

tel. +41 44 251 61 29, www.le-dezaley.ch. Since<br />

1974 Pascal Ruhlé and his team have been cooking<br />

dishes from the canton Vaud, situated in western<br />

Switzerland. The fondue prepared according to an old<br />

family recipe is definitely very tasty and also comes in<br />

a version with morels (mushrooms). Or get one of the<br />

fondue deals including a starter (like air-dried meat) and<br />

a dessert. Try one of the different sausages of the region,<br />

be it stuffed with cabbage or just served plain with French<br />

beans or leek or go for one of the other Swiss dishes. The<br />

old part of the restaurant is more charming, so try to get a<br />

seat there. QOpen 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00. Closed<br />

Sun. Kitchen open until 23:00. (22 - 50Sfr). JAB<br />

©iStockphoto.com/Colin Soutar<br />

Turm F-3, Obere Zäune 19, 8Rathaus, tel. +41<br />

43 268 39 40, www.bei-tony.ch. If you are not good<br />

at decisions, you will have a hard time choosing at the<br />

Caribbean restaurant Turm: the vast menu reads almost<br />

like a zoo: crocodile, kangaroo, bison, beef, soups, salads<br />

and quesadillas. The place is heavily decorated with plants<br />

and palms, contrasting with the old house it’s located in.<br />

Food is good and service fast - usually. The Turm is hidden<br />

in the upper part of Niederdorf. But it’s well known: just ask<br />

for directions. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Non-stop kitchen until<br />

23:30. (30 - 66Sfr). JAB<br />

Italian<br />

Bindella E-4, <strong>In</strong> Gassen 6, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 221<br />

25 46, www.bindella.ch. Bindella is dedicated to Venetian<br />

cuisine and it’s not just the Neo-Baroque interior: fish and<br />

seafood rule the menu. Meat lovers get their money‘s worth<br />

as well. Try spaghetti with clams (alle vongole) as a starter,<br />

continue with the chopped calf‘s liver with risotto and finish<br />

off with some Italian cheese. But no matter what you choose,<br />

if you like Italian food, we‘re convinced you will be more than<br />

pleased with what you get. The service is good, waiters are<br />

smart and friendly and the atmosphere is not exactly quiet but<br />

all the more Italian. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30, Sun 17:30 - 23:00.<br />

Nonstop kitchen until 22:00, Sun 21:30 (29 - 68Sfr). JAB<br />

NEW<br />

Don Leone C-3, Bäckerstrasse 31, 8Stauffacher, tel.<br />

+41 44 241 01 01, www.donleone.ch. This is a real Italian<br />

ristorante: it’s chatty, cramped and bustling - but that gives<br />

the place its genuine atmosphere. You’ll most probably be<br />

seated at one of their big wooden tables among others. Food<br />

is good: we can really recommend their crunchy pizza. Unlike<br />

most pizzerias they also have pizze bianche - pizza without<br />

tomato topping like it’s eaten around Naples. But you’ll also<br />

find meat specialities like costolette d’agnello (lamb chops)<br />

on the menu. Q Open 10:00 - 14:30, 17:00 - 24:00, Mon &<br />

Sat 17:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. AB<br />

Italia C-2, Zeughausstrasse 61, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel.<br />

+41 43 233 88 44, www.ristorante-italia.ch. Simple,<br />

unspectacular, but nevertheless outstanding Italian cooking.<br />

Start with a misto salumi, a selection of the almost twenty<br />

Italian sausages in stock, then continue with some pasta (we<br />

recommend linguine nere con gamberi, panna e pomodori -<br />

black pasta with shrimps, cream and tomatoes) as a first dish<br />

and then choose the galeton al diavolo (chicken on hot sauce)<br />

- or skip the pasta and leave some space for sweets. The Italia<br />

is a wine lovers paradise: there are 24 different wines served<br />

by the glass. The futuristic wine tasting machine makes sure<br />

the wines don’t oxidise and the quality stays perfect. Q Open<br />

11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 18:00 - 24:00. Kitchen<br />

open until 22:00, Thu-Sat until 22:30 (17 - 34 Sfr). AB<br />

NEW<br />

Tschingg F-4, Oberdorfstrasse 2, 8Bellevue, tel. +41<br />

43 210 38 07, www.tschingg.eu. This is a simple, cheap<br />

and tasty pasta experience. Order one of the six different<br />

vegetarian sugos on offer (9.50 - 13.50Sfr), and take a<br />

seat. The pasta is served to your table within minutes. Our<br />

pasta came really al dente and the tomato sugo Tschingg<br />

we chose was very flavoursome - a tit bit hot, as we like it.<br />

Unfortunately, we only spotted one single one of the capers<br />

the sauce was meant to have in it. Tschingg, by the way, is<br />

what the Swiss disparagingly called the Italian immigrants in<br />

the 1960s. Nowadays their descendants are proud enough<br />

of their heritage to open a restaurant with the same name.<br />

Nice move. Take away 2.50 cheaper. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00,<br />

Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun closed.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Japanese<br />

Ginger G-6, Seefeldstrasse 62, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel.<br />

+41 44 422 95 09, www.ginger-restaurant.ch. A fancy<br />

but excellent sushi restaurant in the Seefeld district with a<br />

modern, plain interior. At the small bar a conveyor belt supplies<br />

you with never-ending sushi creations. At the tables in the<br />

back you can not only enjoy the cold Japanese dishes but<br />

fried fish and dozens of warm Japanese treats as well. The<br />

food at Ginger’s is not only delicious, but pricey too. But you<br />

can dine with a good conscience: all their fish is caught using<br />

sustainable methods. QOpen 11:45 - 14:30, 17:00 - 24:00,<br />

Sat 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. A<br />

Sala of Tokyo D-1, Limmatstrasse 29, 8Sihlquai/<br />

Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 271 52 90, www.sala-of<br />

-tokyo.ch. It calls itself ‘Japan‘s Food Embassy N°1’ - and<br />

that‘s what Sala of Tokyo is, at least in Zurich. The Sala‘s<br />

meals with 9 courses (130Sfr) will convince you that there‘s<br />

more to Japanese kitchen than sushi or sashimi. Surprises<br />

are included as the menu says no more than ‘something from<br />

the sea’ or ‘something fried’. <strong>In</strong> the sankaiyaki part of the<br />

restaurant the dishes are grilled at your table. If you want to<br />

go for the extravagant try the celebrated Wagyu beef from<br />

Kobe cattle (180Sfr).QOpen 11:45 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:45,<br />

Sat 18:00 - 22:45. Closed Sun & Mon. Kitchen open until<br />

21:30 (33 - 72Sfr). JAB<br />

Yooji’s Bellevue F-5, St. Urbangasse 8, 8Bellevue, tel.<br />

+41 44 253 11 11, www.yoojis.ch. No matter if you prefer<br />

your sushi as a proper dinner at a table, a quick eat at the bar<br />

or to take away: the three Yooji’s in Zurich are a safe bet for<br />

Japanese food. This one at Bellevue has a gallery where you<br />

can sit at tables above the bar, maybe a good place to order<br />

some of the more daring sushi creations. You can pick the<br />

traditional ones from the conveyor belt while sitting at the bar.<br />

By the way: over 80% of the fish is from sustainable sources.<br />

There is another Yooji’s in the Seefeld district (Seefeldstrasse<br />

115) and one close to Langstrasse (Josefstrasse 112).Q<br />

Open 11:00 - 23:00, kitchen open until 22:00. JAB<br />

Mediterranean<br />

Clouds K-6, Maagplatz 5, 8Schiffbau, tel. +41 44<br />

404 30 00, www.clouds.ch. Well, this is what we call a<br />

view! On the top floor of the newly opened Prime Tower you<br />

can overlook the whole city while having dinner or sipping<br />

on a cocktail. By choosing the restaurant, the bistro bar or<br />

the lounge section of the Clouds, you also choose the part<br />

of the city you’ll be able to gaze onto. <strong>In</strong> the bistro you can<br />

always get something nice to eat, no matter what the time<br />

of the day. <strong>In</strong> the restaurant fine dining classics like beef filet<br />

are the ace in the hole. As the restaurant has just opened<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

RESTAURANTS<br />

The aptly named restaurant at the top of the Prime Tower:<br />

Clouds. PD<br />

last winter, reservation seems to be compulsory. Q Open<br />

07:30 - 24:00, Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun<br />

09:00 - 24:00. (Restaurant only open for lunch and dinner,<br />

lounge only in the evening). A<br />

Les Halles K-6, Pfingstweidtsrasse 6, 8Escher-Wyss<br />

Platz, tel. +41 44 273 11 25, www.les-halles.ch. This<br />

garage-style restaurant offers mostly organic food from<br />

around the Mediterranean with a particularly French touch.<br />

The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels with French fries)<br />

are what a lot of people come here for, or the tasty beef tartar.<br />

The restaurant works like a market hall: you place your order<br />

at the kitchen corner and it‘s served to your table. It’s always<br />

very busy and loud - so come here rather for the outstanding<br />

fresh food and the industrial style than for a quiet evening<br />

with your significant other. There is also a delicatessen in<br />

the back. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri &<br />

Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. Kitchen open 11:45 -<br />

13:45, 18:30 - 21:45. (19 - 35Sfr). B<br />

Zum Grünen Glas F-4, Untere Zäune 15, 8Neumarkt,<br />

tel. +41 44 251 65 04, www.gruenesglas.ch. A little bit<br />

off the beaten track on the upper edge of Niederdorf, the<br />

zum Grünen Glas offers notable Mediterranean-style cuisine<br />

in the noble atmosphere of an old guild house. The classic<br />

here is the beef tartar - it’s served either with basil and olives<br />

or Asian-style with wasabi and mango chutney. And yes, it’s<br />

very tasty. You will find fish, meat and some typical Zurich<br />

dishes like geschnetzeltes and bratwurst on the menu as<br />

well. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30, Sat 17:30 - 23:30. Closed Sun.<br />

Kitchen open until 22:00 (28 - 45Sfr). JAB<br />

Mediterranean bar/restaurant/market hall, located at the heart of the culture and<br />

night-life district of Zurich West. Reservations: 044-273 11 25 or www.les-halles.ch<br />

October - November 2012<br />

29


30 RESTAURANTS<br />

A distinguished atmosphere at Bohemia. PD<br />

Oriental<br />

Maison Blunt L-7, Gasometerstrasse 5, 8Limmatplatz,<br />

tel. +41 43 211 00 33, www.maison-blunt.ch. Located<br />

in a former garage, the Maison Blunt is a popular Moroccan<br />

restaurant. It‘s split into two parts: the tea room where you<br />

can spend the whole day sitting on low chairs and sofas and<br />

the restaurant for lunch and dinner. Food here is excellent. We<br />

recommend the big mezze platter to taste lots of different<br />

oriental-style dishes like tabbouleh (bulgur wheat salad),<br />

hummus, and baked cheese together with the fabulous pita<br />

bread. Don‘t forget to order a glass of Moroccan red wine (yes,<br />

they do wine in Morocco!) and finish off with the trademark<br />

tea made with a generous sprig of fresh peppermint. Very<br />

popular for brunch on weekends. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00,<br />

Fri & Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. Kitchen open<br />

11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, weekend 10:00 - 23:00. (24<br />

- 36Sfr). AB<br />

Swiss cuisine<br />

What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is<br />

heavily influenced by their neighbours‘ cuisine, especially<br />

the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most<br />

Swiss would probably say: käsefondue (cheese fondue),<br />

a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking<br />

cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take<br />

getting used to. Raclette is another cheese speciality,<br />

melted cheese on potatoes served with different pickles<br />

and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss,<br />

the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork) being<br />

the most common. Züri gschnätzlets is a traditional<br />

Zurich dish, thin strips of veal cooked in a cream sauce,<br />

often with mushrooms. This is often served with rösti,<br />

a cake of fried grated potatoes, a bit like Spanish tortilla<br />

but also on the list of Swiss traditionals. Switzerland<br />

also has an impressive range of breads to go with the<br />

cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf) is a favourite<br />

for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue<br />

bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly<br />

speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular<br />

too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot<br />

broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying<br />

with a range of sauces and sides.<br />

Palme de Beirut Bertastrasse 76, 8Goldbrunnenplatz,<br />

tel. +41 44 462 64 73, www.palmedebeirut.ch. You<br />

will not just bump into this restaurant by chance - but<br />

it’s definitely worth the effort getting there if you fancy<br />

Lebanese cooking: tram N°14 takes you from main train<br />

station to Goldbrunnenplatz in just 12 minutes. From there<br />

it’s a short walk down Bertastrasse. The rich mezzas platter<br />

offers anything from moutabbal (a mousse of egg plants<br />

and sesame) to roasted quails - and is excellent. Or try a<br />

kafta halabieh (skewer with minced lamb on hot sauce) or<br />

kastaleta ghanam (grilled lamb chops on a coriander sauce)<br />

and finish with a sweet baklawa (nut pastry). On weekends a<br />

belly dancer might make the oriental experience perfect - if<br />

you are lucky. Q Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat,<br />

Sun & Mon 18:00 - 23:00. Kitchen open until 22:30. AB<br />

Spanish<br />

Bodega Espanola F-4, Münstergasse 15, 8Rathaus,<br />

tel. +41 44 251 23 10. If you’re looking for no-nonsense<br />

Spanish charm in Zurich the Bodega is the place to head for.<br />

After an ‘hola’ from the waiter, choose from the tapas on<br />

display at the counter: squid salad, figs wrapped in bacon,<br />

chicken wings etc. (each 5.40Sfr). A must-try is the excellent<br />

tortilla. Then take a seat at one of the large tables - a short<br />

chat comes easy as you’ll probably be sharing with other<br />

guests. The waiters will also be pleased to put together a<br />

selection of tapas for you. Agree on a maximum price to avoid<br />

surprises. For dining in a slightly more classy atmosphere visit<br />

the Sala Marisco on the first floor. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.<br />

Kitchen open until 23:00 (22 - 48Sfr). JA<br />

Zum Grobe Ernst F-3, Stüssihofstatt 16, 8Rathaus,<br />

tel. +41 44 251 20 55, www.zumgrobeernst.ch. Don’t<br />

be scared off by the name of this venue (Rude Ernest): host<br />

Ernesto is unhurried and comfy rather than rude. The food<br />

he puts on the plate is Spanish, though with visible Swiss<br />

and international influences: gambas al ajillo (shrimps in<br />

garlic sauce), paella, pollito flambeado (chicken flambé) or<br />

veal chops. As a side dish we recommend nudeln Ernesto<br />

(pasta with cream and cheese) - no matter if they match your<br />

main course, just try them. Sometimes a guitarrero makes<br />

the experience even more Spanish. QOpen 11:00 - 15:00,<br />

18:00 - 00:30, Sat 18:00 - 00:30. Closed Sun. Kitchen open<br />

until 22:45 (38 - 62Sfr). JAB<br />

Steak houses<br />

NEW<br />

Bohemia H-5, Klosbachstrasse 2, 8Kreuzplatz, tel.<br />

+41 44 383 70 60, www.bohemia.ch. Bohemia’s waiters<br />

wear ties - and they’re not the only thing with style around<br />

here. The tiled floor and the crystal chandeliers give the<br />

recently renovated Bohemia a distinguished atmosphere,<br />

drawing both business people and the city’s in-crowd.<br />

They now mainly serve steaks grilled to your liking on the<br />

wood-fire grill. Try their home-made sauces - we loved the<br />

just slightly sweet ketchup. The bar area at the front can<br />

be busy, so if you prefer a quieter atmosphere, try to get a<br />

table in the room at the back. Q Open 06:45 - 24:00, Thu<br />

& Fri 06:45 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.<br />

(25 - 64Sfr). AB<br />

King’s Cave F-2, Central 1, 8Central, tel. +41 44<br />

256 55 55, www.central.ch. Walk down the stairs from<br />

the entrance of the Central Plaza Hotel and dive into the<br />

atmosphere of a mediaeval castle’s cellar: a fireplace,<br />

candle holders and richly ornamented wall-carpets set you<br />

some hundred years back in time. The good service and<br />

the food quality are definitely from nowadays. The menu<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

features mainly grilled meat. The steaks are all served over<br />

a candle arrangement, so the meat stays warm and you<br />

just help yourself when required. Certainly a good choice for<br />

meat lovers and aspiring knights. Q Open 11:30 - 14:00,<br />

18:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 17:30 - 24:00. Kitchen open until<br />

23:30! (36 - 64Sfr). JA<br />

Swiss<br />

As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is<br />

(see Swiss cuisine p. 30), we list some traditional restaurants<br />

here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern<br />

way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue<br />

and raclette see the box on page 28. We list the traditional<br />

Zurich beer halls in a seperate category overleaf. They serve<br />

generous helpings of earthy local food - definitely not a bad<br />

way to explore Swiss cuisine either.<br />

Niederdorfstrasse, the main thoroughway of the Niederdorf<br />

old town. zuerichfoto.ch<br />

NEW<br />

Café Zähringer F-3, Zähringerplatz 11, 8Rudolf-Brun-<br />

Brücke, tel. +41 44 252 05 00, www.cafe-zaehringer.ch.<br />

Zäh, as this place is lovingly called by some, has survived<br />

as a cooperative fully under employee control for over thirty<br />

years in the heart of this banking city. The warm, simple<br />

interior is second home to many in the left political scene<br />

in Zurich, and socialist imagery abounds. You can have<br />

coffee and cake or a beer here, but you also eat well at<br />

great prices, whether you choose pasta, a wok dish or one<br />

of the daily menus, like olive ravioli with pine-nuts, tomatoes<br />

and ruccola. There are meat, vegetarian and vegan options,<br />

even soy-milk for the hot chocolate. The staff with their<br />

tattoos and rasta hair-dos are friendly and direct. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 24:00, Mon 18:00 - 24:00. (9 - 28Sfr). JB<br />

Gotischer Saal - Haus zum Rüden F-3,<br />

Limmatquai 42, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 261 95 66,<br />

www.hauszumrueden.ch. Dining in the gothic room of<br />

this distinct old guild house on Limmatquai sets you back<br />

in time: very spacious with stone walls and a hardwood<br />

ceiling it’s a feast for the eyes. And not just your eyes can<br />

feast, but your other senses too. The classic French and<br />

Swiss cuisine featuring beef and lamb as well as fish is<br />

exquisite - and has its price. Get some sweets from the<br />

dessert trolley at the end or go all the way and order the<br />

five-course gourmet menu (138Sfr), trolley included. Q<br />

Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:30 - 24:00. Closed Sat & Sun.<br />

(48 - 76Sfr). JA<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

RESTAURANTS<br />

NEW<br />

Hornegg Seefeldstrasse 201, 8Bahnhof Tiefenbrunnen,<br />

tel. +41 44 422 41 40, www.restaurant-hornegg.ch. <strong>In</strong><br />

the Seefeld district, close to Tiefenbrunnen station, this place<br />

serves traditional, simple, down-to-earth Swiss food in a<br />

rustic atmosphere as solid as ever. Come here for their great<br />

cordon bleu or the schnitzel - or go for the käseschnitte, a<br />

slice of bread with tomatoes, ham and cheese browned in<br />

the oven. Swiss people call a no-fuss restaurant like this a<br />

beiz - a compliment the Hornegg really deserves. Q Open<br />

08:30 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun closed. B<br />

Kronenhalle F-4, Rämistrasse 4, 8Bellevue, tel. +41<br />

44 262 99 00, www.kronenhalle.com. The Kronenhalle<br />

is Zurich’s most legendary restaurant: top bankers, artists,<br />

editors-in-chief and celebrities come to this famous brasserie<br />

- and mix with (well dressed) ordinary people. Lots of wood<br />

and original paintings by Mirò and Picasso on the walls give<br />

the brasserie its classic yet old-fashioned look - nothing<br />

has changed in decades. The food (classics: schnitzel with<br />

cucumber salad, bouillon with liver dumplings) is good, pricey,<br />

but certainly not as important as the see-and-be-seen.QOpen<br />

12:00 - 24:00. Kitchen open until 23:15 (28 - 76Sfr). JAX<br />

Markthalle L-6, Limmatstrasse 231, 8Dammweg,<br />

tel. +41 44 201 00 60, www.restaurant-markthalle.ch.<br />

Eat modern Swiss cuisine in Zurich’s only market hall, built<br />

underneath a railway overpass (part of the shopping mall Im<br />

Viadukt). Start with bread and one of four different spreads,<br />

or a portion of fresh sausages, continue with some pasta,<br />

roast or meat from the grill. And don’t forget the market-fresh<br />

vegetables. All dishes are served on platters in the middle<br />

of the table, so you can taste your friends’ orders too. Don’t<br />

worry if it feels like an earthquake is coming on - it’s just a train<br />

passing overhead. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.<br />

Kitchen open Mon-Wed until 22:00, Thu - Sat until 22:30. A<br />

After looking around,<br />

look for<br />

great food.<br />

VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT BAR TAKE AWAY CATERING<br />

SEEFELDSTR. 2 | FALKENSTR. 12, NEXT TO THE OPERA, <strong>ZURICH</strong><br />

WWW.TIBITS.CH | WWW.TIBITS.CO.UK<br />

AS AN APP<br />

ON FACEBOOK<br />

October - November 2012<br />

31


32 RESTAURANTS<br />

Quick eats<br />

Not surprisingly, there are plenty of options for a quick<br />

eat in Zurich, be it a speedy dinner or a snack on a tour<br />

through the city’s nightlife. The Turkish kebab and its<br />

variations are probably the most popular fast food and<br />

can literally be found everywhere. If you want something<br />

more local, go for a grilled bratwurst or a cervelat<br />

(both Swiss sausages). Besides that are many Asian<br />

take-aways, as well as the big American burger joints<br />

McDonalds’ and Burger King of course. We list some of<br />

our favourites for you:<br />

NEW<br />

menüfoif K-6, Hardstrasse 320, 8Escher-Wyss<br />

Platz, tel. +41 44 271 21 21. The jazz in the<br />

background, the curtain made of old spoons, the no-fuss,<br />

calm service - menufoif is a slightly different take-away.<br />

Their business is sandwiches and this they do very well:<br />

the ciabattas, panini and other variations are offered with<br />

a range of fillings, such as sun-dried meat and ruccola or<br />

aubergine, tomato and mozzarella, apart from salads and<br />

drinks. You can’t eat anything on site though, as the city<br />

police are located so close by that the usual lee-way that<br />

take-aways enjoy is just not given. Just grab something on<br />

your way through. Q Open 11:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 18:30.<br />

Sat & Sun closed.<br />

Sternen Grill F-5, Sechseläutenwiese/Bellevue,<br />

8Bellevue, www.sternengrill.ch. This is the city’s<br />

most famous sausage barbecue. Because its traditional<br />

location is undergoing renovation, it’s temporarily<br />

located in a motor home on Sechseläutenwiese at<br />

Bellevue. The bratwurst here is tasty, but the mustard<br />

is what’s really special: made with horseradish it’s extra<br />

hot and fiery. No matter the weather (there is a tent<br />

and heaters), this is where Zurich gets its bratwurst.<br />

You can also get grilled chicken, French fries and other<br />

snacks - but the bratwurst is what Sternen Grill is all<br />

about. QOpen 10:30 - 23:30.<br />

Beer halls<br />

Bierfalken D-3, Löwenstrasse 16, 8Löwenplatz, tel.<br />

+41 44 211 68 23, www.bierfalken.ch. The walls lined<br />

with dark wood and the big tables with benches and solid<br />

chairs give this restaurant a rustic and very traditional charm.<br />

The menu features solid Swiss dishes like cordon bleu,<br />

schnitzel or rösti. The place is popular with businessmen<br />

and workers alike. The food and the service are good and<br />

portions generous, even though it’s a bit more expensive<br />

here than in similar places. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat<br />

10:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. (23 - 37Sfr). JA<br />

Brasserie Federal E-2, Bahnhofplatz 15,<br />

8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 217 15 15, www.brasserie<br />

-federal.ch. This is a beer lover’s paradise: More than 100<br />

different Swiss beers are sold in this huge hall situated inside<br />

the main train station. You can try seven at one blow: for<br />

9.90Sfr the waiter will serve you seven beers from the tap in<br />

small glasses (1dl). Food is Swiss-style, hearty and served<br />

fast: pasta with minced meat, bratwurst or rösti with bacon<br />

and raclette cheese. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Kitchen open<br />

until 22:30 (19 - 30Sfr). JA<br />

Rheinfelder Bierhalle F-2, Niederdorfstrasse 76,<br />

8Central, tel. +41 44 251 54 64, www.rheinfelder.ch.<br />

The Rheinfelder is one of the oldest beer halls in town: a place<br />

where workers, students, and business men alike go for the<br />

big portions, good prices and traditional down-to-earth food<br />

- and lots of beer of course. The waiters have a rough charm,<br />

but usually serve the desired dishes quickly: schweinsleberli<br />

(pork liver), bratwurst, kidney, rösti or chnöpfli (small ballshaped<br />

noodles). If in doubt go for the jumbo-jumbo cordon<br />

bleu that the Rheinfelder is famous for. But beware: the<br />

waitress will poke fun at you if you can’t take this piece of<br />

meat the size of an elephant’s ear. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.<br />

Kitchen open until 23:15 (12 - 32Sfr). JNB<br />

Zeughauskeller E-4, Bahnhofstrasse 28a,<br />

8 Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 220 15 15,<br />

www.zeughauskeller.ch. The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal)<br />

is one of Zurich’s biggest beer halls. Situated in a mediaeval<br />

arsenal it serves good solid traditional Swiss fare: generous<br />

helpings of meat, sausages, schnitzel and roast. Popular with<br />

tourists, locals and lads out for the night, it’s a place where<br />

it’s easy to get to know people, as you share the big tables<br />

with other guests. Old military devices standing around are<br />

there to remind you where you are. So don’t get too drunk,<br />

you might end up getting conscripted. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00.<br />

Kitchen open until 22:15 (19 - 40Sfr). JAB<br />

Vegetarian<br />

Bona Dea E-2, Bahnhofplatz 15, 8Bahnhofquai/HB,<br />

tel. +41 44 217 15 15, www.bona-dea.ch. Bona Dea in the<br />

main train station offers a large vegetarian buffet every day of<br />

the week, with curries, other Asian and also Italian dishes and<br />

salads and dessert. The atmosphere has a touch of airport<br />

anonymity, but the staff, who serve the drinks, are very friendly.<br />

Q Open 11:30 - 14:30, 17:30 - 23:00. (21 - 42Sfr). JA<br />

Hiltl D-3, Sihlstrasse 28, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 227 70<br />

00, www.hiltl.ch. The Hiltl is Zurich’s vegetarian institution<br />

par excellence. It’s simply amazing what they do with purely<br />

vegetarian ingredients. Just grab a plate and pick from the<br />

huge choice of curries, chutneys, salads, tofu and a lot more…<br />

Take away and eating in the bar area is cheaper, while the<br />

restaurant area with table service and à la carte dishes offers<br />

more comfort. <strong>In</strong> the evening the bar doubles as a club. Q Open<br />

06:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 06:00 - late, Sun 08:00 - late. Kitchen<br />

daily from 11:00 - 23:00. (25 - 33Sfr). JAB<br />

tibits G-5, Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41 44<br />

260 32 22, www.tibits.ch. The sumptous vegetarian buffet<br />

is the focal point of tibits - everybody queues up to choose<br />

from around 40 home-made salads, hot daily specials, soups<br />

and sweets. The food is excellent, making tibits very popular<br />

with the business people and the hipper residents of the<br />

Seefeld area. Sister restaurant ‘tibits im NZZ bistro’ around<br />

the corner at Falkenstrasse 12, +41 44 258 17 18 (Open<br />

11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00). QOpen 06:30 - 23:30,<br />

Fri 06:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:30.<br />

(buffet, 4.20Sfr per 100 grams). JAB<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Café des Amis M-6, Nordstrasse 88, 8Limmatplatz,<br />

tel. +41 43 536 93 81, www.desamis.ch. Not too far from<br />

Limmatplatz and still within the reach of a Zurich visitor, the<br />

Café des Amis is a relaxed place for breakfast on weekdays<br />

or a long brunch on the weekend. After its opening it quickly<br />

became popular with urbanistas of every age, much in<br />

contrary to the many venues that tried their luck before at<br />

this location. <strong>In</strong> the evening it’s a location for chilling with a<br />

drink at the bar. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 -24:00,<br />

Sun 09:00 - 18:00. B<br />

NEW<br />

Collana F-5, Theaterstrasse 9, 8Stadelhofen, tel. +41<br />

44 250 59 10, www.commercio.ch. At the entrance to the<br />

new subterranean car park in front of the opera at Bellevue<br />

there is a stylish new café. A huge window front, stone floors<br />

and the wooden panels behind the bar bring a fancy italianità<br />

to the place. The coffee here is excellent and the food Italian,<br />

solid and rather pricey (e.g. ravioli 25Sfr). Also on their menu<br />

you’ll find the original pepito, a sandwich with a piece of grilled<br />

meat (beef, lamb or chicken), onions and a secret sauce. It<br />

has many fans and was sold for decades in the Niederdorf<br />

until the place was recently closed. Nice outdoor area. Q<br />

Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 09:00 - 24:00. JAB<br />

Café des Amis, waiting for your custom. Florian Kalotay<br />

Gran Café Motta F-3, Limmatquai 66, 8Rathaus,<br />

tel. +41 44 252 31 19. The Gran Café on Limmatquai - an<br />

institution for decades - was completely renovated in 2010.<br />

It now oozes Italian elegance - bright parquet floors, a long<br />

metallic bar - tastefully combined with playful, modernist<br />

elements. The coffee is strong and tasty, especially the<br />

<strong>In</strong>donesian blend. The ceiling height of more than 4.5 metres<br />

gives the place the grandezza of a Gran Café. Italian paninis<br />

and appetizers - and probably the best outdoor seating for<br />

watching the world go by on Limmatquai. QOpen 07:00 -<br />

23:00, Sat 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 07:30 - 23:00. Kitchen open<br />

until 22:00 JNB<br />

La Stanza D-4, Bleicherweg 10, 8Paradeplatz, tel.<br />

+41 43 817 62 82, www.lastanza.ch. This popular<br />

Italian style coffee bar close to Paradeplatz offers a variety<br />

of Mediterranean liquors, wines and drinks - and the local<br />

beer Paul on tap. The rather well-dressed customers sit on<br />

the window benches and sip on their sprizz (a mixture of<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

CAFÉS<br />

prosecco and aperol liquor) served by the stylish black-tied<br />

owners. The stone bar and the big steaming coffee machine<br />

(a 1963 Faema) in the back make the Italian experience<br />

perfect. Soups and Italian snacks available - brunch on<br />

Sundays. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Thu 07:00 - 24:00, Fri<br />

07:00 - 01:30, Sat 10:00 - 01:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. J<br />

Schurter F-3, Niederdorfstrasse 90, 8Central,<br />

tel. +41 44 252 32 32, www.cafeschurter.ch. At<br />

Schurter’s you get traditional Zurich pastries like hüppen,<br />

offleten and tirggel, all members of the family of the<br />

waffle. We recommend enjoying them with a hot chocolate<br />

(served in 7 different flavours). From the window seats<br />

you can observe the never-ending flow of pedestrians<br />

entering or leaving the Niederdorf part of the old town<br />

at Central, where the café is located. The high bar tables<br />

and stools give the place a modern touch despite its<br />

almost 150 years of history. Q Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />

09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. J<br />

Sprüngli E-4, Bahnhofstrasse 21, 8Paradeplatz,<br />

tel. +41 44 224 46 16, www.spruengli.ch. Sprüngli<br />

is the place to stop for a coffee on a shopping tour on<br />

Bahnhofstrasse. It has been around for 170 years and<br />

for locals it’s synonymous with excellent confectionery<br />

and chocolate. Try to get a window seat on the first floor<br />

overlooking Paradeplatz, order a coffee or a hot chocolate<br />

and choose something sweet from the display cabinet -<br />

best known are the Luxemburgerli, small macaroons with a<br />

light and airy cream filling in different flavours. Unusually for<br />

Switzerland you pay at the cash desk when leaving. Lunch<br />

meals and brunch every day, coffee bar and shop on the<br />

ground floor. QOpen 07:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun<br />

09:30 - 17:30. JABK<br />

Breakfast<br />

Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss<br />

families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts,<br />

a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, and is<br />

served with butter, jams, honey, cheeses or cold meats.<br />

Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads - rye bread,<br />

maize bread or potato-and-walnut bread to name just a<br />

few - which add to the breakfast spread. Buttery croissants,<br />

called gipfeli in Swiss German, are also a favourite. Another<br />

breakfast dish with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli,<br />

made of oat flakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and<br />

yoghurt in the classic birchermüesli version. Many Swiss<br />

don’t consider breakfast complete without one of the many<br />

takes on the müesli-theme.<br />

<strong>In</strong> recent years, brunch has become very popular in<br />

Switzerland and in Zurich many restaurants and cafés<br />

now serve breakfast or brunch until noon or even later.<br />

Here come our favourites:<br />

Casablanca, à la carte brunch Sat and Sun 08:00 -<br />

14:00 (p. 35).<br />

Maison Blunt, one of the most popular brunches,<br />

with an Moroccan oriental touch, brunch daily 08:00 -<br />

16:00 (p. 30).<br />

Hiltl, a splendid, spicy vegetarian buffet brunch, only<br />

Sun 09:30 - 14:30 (p. 32).<br />

Sprüngli, one of Zurich’s most traditional cafés,<br />

breakfast and brunch every day (p. 33).<br />

October - November 2012<br />

33


Zurich’s nightlife offers classy clubs, casual and<br />

alternative bars, as well as live-music venues and<br />

strip clubs. On the weekend people from almost half of<br />

Switzerland come to the city to have a good time. The<br />

main nightlife areas are Niederdorf in the old town, the<br />

streets around Langstrasse and Zurich West (see Zurich’s<br />

districts). There is a lively club scene - but with dozens<br />

of bars around, bar-hopping can be just as much fun. A<br />

night out in Zurich can be great, but quite expensive. If<br />

you’re heading for bars and clubs have some cash handy,<br />

as not all venues take credit cards. If you prefer it on the<br />

quiet side, there are wine and cocktail bars in the old<br />

town and around Paradeplatz. Check out our listings.<br />

Casual bars<br />

NEW<br />

01Bar Limmatquai 86, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel.<br />

+41 43 268 00 66, www.01bar.ch. This bar caters to a<br />

rather young clientele who like to have a drink here before<br />

they probably head off for some bigger nightlife adventures<br />

than just bar fun. And classic bar fun is exactly what you get<br />

here - drinks, cocktails and beer on high and low standard<br />

tables. <strong>In</strong> the evening the bar crew usually spins some house<br />

music. The 01 is a restaurant too with a small menu - and<br />

with its outdoor seating next to the Limatquai promenade<br />

a good day-time choice as well. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri<br />

08:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. K<br />

A busy atmosphere at the casual Schmuklerski bar. PD<br />

Casablanca C-2, Langstrasse 62, 8Helvetiaplatz,<br />

tel. +41 44 241 60 00, www.cafe-casablanca.ch. A<br />

lively bar in the Langstrasse district where a young, quite<br />

hip crowd warms up for the weekend. Lie back on one of the<br />

brown leather sofas in the post-industrial atmosphere - if<br />

you’re lucky enough to get a seat, as it’s often packed.<br />

It’s also good for a relaxed coffee in a hushed, hung-over<br />

atmosphere during the day. And they do home-made<br />

sweets and small lunch dishes. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00,<br />

Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00,<br />

Mon closed.<br />

Schmuklerski C-3, Badenerstrasse 101,<br />

8 Bezirksgebäude, tel. +41 44 241 15 41,<br />

www.schmuklerski.ch. The Schmuklerski draws a stylish<br />

but relaxed bar crowd, with the cool concrete architecture and<br />

lush lights and chandeliers setting the scenery. It also makes<br />

a pleasant place for a coffee during the day and the bar menu<br />

offers considerably more than just sandwiches. You can also<br />

move over into the restaurant in the adjoining room, where<br />

the cooking is a confident combination of Mediterranean,<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

NIGHTLIFE<br />

Swiss and international influences. There are occasional<br />

jazz concerts. QOpen 07:00 - 23:30, Mon 07:00 - 23:00,<br />

Thu 07:00 - 00:30, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun<br />

09:00 - 22:00. Kitchen open until 22:30 AEBK<br />

Wings F-4, Limmatquai 54, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 43<br />

268 40 55, www.wings-lounge.ch. The barman wears<br />

an airline captain’s uniform, the seats are from a plane and<br />

the cocktails have names like Happy Landing and Jetlag:<br />

welcome aboard the Wings bar. Founded by former Swissair<br />

employees after the grounding of the national airline in 2001,<br />

Wings has been up in the air now for more than a decade<br />

and tenders everything from cocktails to sours, Martinis and<br />

fizzes. Salads, steaks or club sandwiches are also available.<br />

Expect a stylish and rather classy crowd - but even if you’re an<br />

economy-class traveller you won’t feel out of place. QOpen<br />

12:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. A<br />

Classy bars<br />

Metropol E-4, Fraumünsterstrasse 12, 8Börsenstrasse,<br />

tel. +41 44 200 59 00, www.metropol-restaurant.ch.<br />

Situated in a Neo-Baroque house close to Paradeplatz, the<br />

Metropol surprises with a contemporary arrangement. And<br />

yes, it actually matches. A nice place for a coffee throughout<br />

the day (quiet outdoor seats!), this bar comes to life in the<br />

evening, when classy ladies and businessmen mix with<br />

tourists and sip on one of the many cocktails on the menu.<br />

As an aperitif we recommend the satay skewers - or one of<br />

the sushi creations. For a bigger appetite, just move over to<br />

the restaurant. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00,<br />

Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AK<br />

Nietturm K-6, Schiffbaustrasse 4, 8Escher-Wyss<br />

Platz, tel. +41 44 258 70 77, www.nietturm.ch. This<br />

classy cocktail bar situated in the top two floors of a glass<br />

tower above the Schiffbau (an old industrial hall which now<br />

contains the city‘s main theatre stage) offers panoramic view<br />

over Zurich West. You enter the bar with an elevator from the<br />

main hall of the Schiffbau. Enjoy the fall of night sitting on<br />

one of the red stools nipping on a gin fizz, a caipirinha or one<br />

of the fourteen single malts on the menu. A large bar and a<br />

stylish fireplace can be found on the second floor. Q Open<br />

17:00 - 01:00, Fri & Sat 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun & Mon. A<br />

Rive Gauche E-4, Talstrasse 1, 8Börsenstrasse, tel.<br />

+41 44 220 50 60, www.agauche.ch. The Rive Gauche<br />

bar attracts a mixed crowd: the guests of the five-star hotel<br />

Baur au Lac in whose premises the bar is situated mix with<br />

the young city crowd. With the dark wooden bar, the mirrors<br />

on the wall and the living-room-like lampshades the bar looks<br />

classic British with a touch of modernity. A good place for<br />

cocktails and drinks right in the centre of the city. The Rive<br />

Gauche is also a restaurant with good, rather pricey meat<br />

and seafood on the menu. Q Open 11:30 - 01:00, Fri & Sat<br />

11:30 - 02:00. JAK<br />

usgang.ch - your party portal<br />

zuerich.usgang.ch is a website where you can check out<br />

what’s on in town. A simple click on a certain date in the<br />

calendar shows you all the parties and events that are<br />

on that day. Name of the party, music style played and<br />

location - it’s all there. You’ll understand even if you don’t<br />

speak German. And don’t forget to go back to the site the<br />

day after partying to see if one of their photographers<br />

caught you in action.<br />

October - November 2012<br />

35


36 NIGHTLIFE<br />

Live music venues<br />

Zurich offers all kind of live music: jazz, pop, rock, metal,<br />

indie, gothic and much more. You will find bands playing<br />

somewhere every night of the week. The clubs and bars<br />

listed here focus on live music. Some are just open if<br />

there is a concert. For their daily programme, check<br />

the websites - or find all concerts on www.zueritipp.ch.<br />

Exil K-6, Hardstrasse 245, 8Escher-Wyss Platz, tel.<br />

+41 43 366 86 84, www.exil.cl. National and foreign<br />

bands from indie rock through folk and rap to electro live<br />

on stage almost every night of the week.QX<br />

Komplex 457 Hohlstrasse 457, 8Kappeli,<br />

www.komplex457.ch. This is the city’s third largest<br />

concert and party hall (hosting up to 2300 spectators).<br />

Some of the city’s most renowned concert and party<br />

organisers bring indie rock and more to this club.<br />

Mascotte F-5, Theaterstrasse 10, 8Bellevue,<br />

tel. +41 44 260 15 80, www.mascotte.ch. This club<br />

often features live concerts of international rock and pop<br />

bands before they start the parties. Don’t miss the crazy<br />

Karaoke from Hell show: almost every Tuesday a live band<br />

accompanies you as you sing rock or heavy metal songs<br />

on stage (start 22:30)!<br />

Moods K-6, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Escher-Wyss-<br />

Platz, tel. +41 44 276 80 00, www.moods.ch. With<br />

more than 230 concerts a year, the Moods is Zurich’s<br />

prime address for jazz, funk, soul, blues and world music.<br />

Big international names as well as many Swiss artists.<br />

After-show parties on the weekend.<br />

Classical dancing<br />

Salsa<br />

Fridays<br />

Friday’s night @ bananenreiferei (Salsarica)<br />

Pfingstweidstrasse 101, 8Toni Areal, www.salsarica.ch.<br />

DJ Palmar, Pepe and friends spin all the salsa, bachata and<br />

merengue classics on a large dance floor. Q Dancing Fridays<br />

from 21:00. More latin parties on Mon & Sat. Admission 15Sfr.<br />

Wednesdays<br />

Salsa con 5 (Garufa Dance Club) K-6,<br />

Pfingstweidstrasse 10, 8Escher-Wyss-Platz,<br />

www.garufa.ch. Every Wednesday, DJ Pasito plays<br />

salsa, merengue and bachata in the Garufa Dance Club.<br />

Q Dancing on Wednesdays from 21:00.<br />

Tango / Milongas<br />

Sundays<br />

Club Tango Argentino (Restaurant Falcone) B-4,<br />

Birmensdorferstrasse 150, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel.<br />

+41 44 463 55 25. This very classic milonga with DJ’s Anneke,<br />

Julio and Horacio takes place in the hall on the first floor of the<br />

Falcone restaurant. Expect a genuine atmosphere with rather<br />

senior dancers. Q Dancing on Sundays from 19:30.<br />

Thursdays<br />

Don Milonga (Garufa Dance Club) K-6,<br />

Pfingstweidstrasse 10, 8Escher-Wyss-Platz,<br />

www.garufa.ch. A milonga full of atmosphere in the<br />

party district of Zurich West. If you need some practice,<br />

come at 19:30 and warm up with professional instruction<br />

before the party starts. Q Dancing on Thursdays from<br />

21:00. Admission: 10Sfr, with lesson 15Sfr.<br />

Sein E-2, Schützengasse 5, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41<br />

44 221 10 65, www.zuerichsein.ch. The dark wooden floor<br />

give this stylishly designed tapas bar a nice cosy feel. The<br />

tapas here are called Seinigkeiten and don’t come straight<br />

from Spain but have rather an international touch, e.g. veal<br />

ravioli or sturgeon carpaccio. <strong>In</strong> order to be able to taste as<br />

many of these culinary delights as possible, we recommend<br />

ordering Gemischte Seinigkeiten, a plate of mixed tapas.<br />

There is a well assorted wine menu, a lovely outdoor area<br />

and a restaurant for those with more of an appetite. Q Open<br />

10:30 - 24:00. Closed Sat & Sun. ABK<br />

Alternative bars<br />

NEW<br />

ARTige Bar Spitalgasse 10, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke,<br />

tel. +41 44 251 23 42, www.susibrunner.ch. On the<br />

ground floor of the art gallery Susi Brunner (specialised<br />

in outsider art), the tiny ARTige bar is an evening hotspot<br />

for students and even younger folks who fancy the beers<br />

and drinks on offer here. The place is pleasantly casual in<br />

contrast to the many uberstylish places in Zurich. Sympatico,<br />

we say. <strong>In</strong> the afternoon it’s a great place for a coffee break<br />

(try the chocolate cake!) - not just for youngsters. There is<br />

usually an exhibition on in the café - and more art to see on<br />

the first floor.QOpen from 14:00, Sun & Mon closed.<br />

Bar Sein, or ‘being’. Sounds philosophical, looks stylish. PD<br />

La Catrina C-2, Kurzgasse 4, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41<br />

78 771 13 46, www.lacatrina.ch. Don‘t get scared off<br />

by the girls looking to sell their love to you outside this tiny<br />

bar: this real Mexican place - no sombreros or ponchos,<br />

but handcrafted smiley skeletons, bones and lots of<br />

candles - fast became popular with lovers of margaritas,<br />

beer, alternative live music and parties. On Tuesdays<br />

and Thursdays Swiss bands rock what’s probably the<br />

smallest stage in town. On weekends DJs often play the<br />

latest alternative tracks. Usually there is no admission,<br />

but that‘s not the only reason it‘s always packed like hell:<br />

it‘s just a perfect place to party until the break of dawn.<br />

Table football downstairs. Q Open 18:00 - 01:00, Tue &<br />

Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri 18:00 - 03:00, Sat 19:00 - 03:00.<br />

Closed Sun. E<br />

Taverns and drinkeries<br />

NEW<br />

Barrique Marktgasse 17, tel. +41 44 252 59 41,<br />

www.barrique-weinbar.ch. The walls panelled with<br />

sections of wooden wine crates, the tables decorated<br />

with wine labels and the lamps made of bulgy wine<br />

bottles get the message across: this is a wine tavern.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

The atmosphere here is calm and stylish and therefore<br />

perfect for a chat with your significant other. With the<br />

many wines (many sold by the glass) they serve Spanish<br />

tapas variations. They also have weekly changing menus<br />

and classics like tatar, sirloin steak and many salads on<br />

the menu. Q Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00,<br />

Sun closed. K<br />

Olé-Olé C-2, Langstrasse 138, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel.<br />

+41 44 242 91 39. An institution on Langstrasse: since<br />

1966 the Guyer siblings have been running this legendary<br />

bar. The interior is a museum of trashy items like trumpets,<br />

kitchen utensils and all kinds of signs. There‘s even a traffic<br />

light flashing away in a corner. Just before midnight dozens<br />

of alarm clocks hanging from the ceiling start to ring: this<br />

is the sign for last orders. The jukebox plays hard rock and<br />

heavy metal only. The Olé-Olé Bar looks like the whole<br />

Langstrasse district looked 20 years ago - go there and<br />

travel back in time. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 -<br />

02:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Dance bars<br />

Palavrion Bar D-5, Beethovenstrasse 32,<br />

8 Stockerstrasse, tel. +41 44 286 54 54,<br />

www.palavrion.ch. This is where the young and the young<br />

at heart come for after-work drinks and partying. DJs spin the<br />

latest party and house tunes from Thursdays to Saturdays<br />

to make sure both sexes are in a communicative mood.<br />

Bouncers see to it that not everyone gets in - but getting past<br />

them is usually not really a problem. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00,<br />

Thu & Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 21:00 - 03:00, closed Sun. No<br />

admission. AK<br />

Valmann D-4, Talstrasse 58, 8Paradeplatz, tel.<br />

+41 43 497 31 31, www.valmann.ch. The office<br />

workers of the city centre go crazy after work in this dark<br />

venue in the financial district. Starting Thursday DJs spin<br />

the latest dance tracks while the chic crowd consumes<br />

vodka by the bottle and dances its ass off. But please<br />

leave your tie at home - or the bartender willl be happy to<br />

cut it off and hang it behind the bar, before you get your<br />

drink. The Valmann crew just thinks partying without a tie<br />

is more relaxed. And they do have a point there. Q Open<br />

17:30 - 01:00, Thu & Fri 17:30 - late, Sat 20:30 - late, Sun<br />

& Mon closed. A<br />

Pubs<br />

Oliver Twist F-3, Rindermarkt 6, 8Rathaus, tel.<br />

+41 44 252 47 10, www.pickwick.ch. The Oliver<br />

Twist in Niederdorf is a popular hangout for expats as well<br />

as locals. Are you looking for English beer, burgers, fish<br />

n’chips, chicken wings and salads? Relax, it’s all there. All<br />

the sports on numerous TVs - but be early for important<br />

games to make sure you get a place. Drunkenness is<br />

encouraged - but it’s easy to get in contact with people<br />

here anyway. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.<br />

BK<br />

The Lion E-3, Oetenbachgasse 24, 8Rennweg, tel.<br />

+41 43 888 66 66, www.candriancatering.ch. This<br />

high-end pub combines the features of an English pub<br />

with the elegance of a wine bar: sports on flat-screen TVs,<br />

table service, six red and six white wines sold by the glass<br />

and six beers on tap as well - from the local Hürlimann<br />

to Guinness and Kilkenny. They also serve food: classic<br />

burgers, wienerschnitzel (breaded veal cutlet) and grilled<br />

beef. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 01:00.<br />

Closed Sun. AK<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Billiards & Bowling<br />

NIGHTLIFE<br />

Billiardino K-6, Heinrichstrasse 245, 8Escher-Wyss-<br />

Platz, tel. +41 43 960 33 33, www.billiardino.ch. With<br />

47 pool and 7 snooker tables, darts and videogames<br />

Billiardino is an entertainment Eldorado in the middle of<br />

the nightlife district Zurich West. Besides the sports there<br />

is a bar with pizza and pasta to please your stomach. You’ll<br />

find Billiardino behind the Abaton multiplex cinema. Q<br />

Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00,<br />

Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. 24/27Sfr per hr.<br />

Bowling West Ifangstrasse 8, Schlieren, tel. +41<br />

44 731 02 06, www.bowling-west.ch. Bowling West is<br />

located in Schlieren, just three stops with the S-train from<br />

Zurich’s main train station (S12 or S3 direction Baden/<br />

Brugg or Aarau). <strong>In</strong> Schlieren cross to the northern side<br />

of the tracks and walk five minutes back in the direction<br />

where the train came from. This bowling centre has 17<br />

lanes as well as billiards, table football, darts and a bar.<br />

Booking by phone recommended. Q Open 14:00 - 24:00,<br />

Fri & Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. 38 - 47Sfr<br />

per hour and lane.<br />

Café Schlauch F-4, Münstergasse 20, 8Helmhaus,<br />

tel. +41 44 251 23 04. The Schlauch is a traditional<br />

restaurant in the old town with about a dozen billiards<br />

tables. Tables are often busy, but as the Schlauch is a<br />

restaurant too, you simply let the guys put you on the<br />

reservation list and sit down and have a beer or two. They<br />

serve hearty organic food as well. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00,<br />

closed Sun & Mon.<br />

October - November 2012<br />

37


38 NIGHTLIFE<br />

Clubs<br />

Adagio E-5, Gotthardstrasse 5, 8Stockerstrasse, tel.<br />

+41 44 206 36 66, www.adagio.ch. <strong>In</strong> a mediaeval decor<br />

with big chandeliers, paintings and stonework, the Adagio<br />

hosts a slightly older, well-groomed crowd. Dress up to<br />

party to dance classics, funk, soul and house music. Expect<br />

gentlemen over fifty hunting for girls who might well be you,<br />

as well as thirty-something couples who are just having a big<br />

night out. Not cheap entertainment, but if you are on a budget<br />

trip not the place you want to go anyway. Latin sounds on<br />

Tuesdays, Brazil-party on Wednesdays. Q Open 21:00 - late,<br />

Tue & Wed 20:00- late, Sun & Mon closed. Admission: Tue &<br />

Wed 5-10Sfr, Thu 10Sfr, Fri & Sat 25Sfr. A<br />

For some real partying in style: Kaufleuten. usgang.ch<br />

Encore G-6, Kreuzstrasse 24, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel.<br />

+41 79 555 33 88, www.encore-club.com. The guests<br />

at the small Encore are mostly very young, beautiful and<br />

certainly rich. Buying a single king-size bottle of finest<br />

French champagne here blows the limit of a standard<br />

credit card. And a bottle like that is what it takes to really<br />

impress in this venue. But don’t worry, if you stick to beer,<br />

regular guys like us can afford and enjoy a night out here.<br />

Given you like house, electro and partytunes and you’re<br />

not averse to dressing yourself up a little. Q Open Fri &<br />

Sat 23:00 - late.<br />

Gonzo C-1, Langstrasse 135, 8Helvetiaplatz,<br />

www.gonzoclub.ch. If you see people queuing next to a<br />

public phone box on Langstrasse, then queue up too! This<br />

small but very tight rock and pop club (sctrictly no electro<br />

music) really is worth queuing for. You head down some<br />

stairs just next to the building and arrive in a cellar, where a<br />

dance floor, a bar and a constantly overcrowded smoker’s<br />

room waits for some serious rock ‘n roll with you. Gentlemen,<br />

start your engines! Q Open Thu 22:00 - 04:00, Fri & Sat<br />

23:00 - late. Admission around 15Sfr, Thu 23:00 - 24:00 free.<br />

Jade D-4, Brandschenkestrasse 25,<br />

8Brandschenkestrasse, tel. +41 44 202 80 02,<br />

www.jade.ch. Opened in 2009 in a building which used to<br />

be a post office, the fashionable Jade draws a young, rich<br />

and beautiful party crowd. Have some cash or a credit card<br />

handy, as the style here is to order the spirits by the bottle.<br />

Girls really do dress up (‘tha less tha betta’) and men either<br />

show their muscles or their shirt collar - ideally both. The<br />

music is mainly house, party tunes and electro. On weekdays<br />

the Jade is a restaurant with meat and fish specialities. Q<br />

Open Fri 23: 00 - 04:00, Sat 23:00 - 04:00. Admission around<br />

25Sfr, minimum age 21. AK<br />

Kaufleuten D-3, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel.<br />

+41 44 225 33 22, www.kaufleuten.com. The Kaufleuten<br />

club is an institution in Zurich’s nightlife: the rich, the beautiful<br />

and wannabes like us queue up almost every weekday to<br />

party, mostly to electronic music and disco-house sounds<br />

(sometimes r’n’b and hip hop). Dress to impress is the motto,<br />

and for some people here looking the part seems to be very<br />

important. Nevertheless, it’s a good place for a classy night out.<br />

If you don’t make it past the bouncers into the club, there are<br />

a restaurant and two bars (Pelikan and Hof) in the Kaufleuten<br />

complex as well. There are often concerts before the parties.<br />

Q Open 23:00 - 04:00, Mon 21:00 - 02:00, Fri & Sat 23:00 -<br />

06:00, Sun 22:00 - 02:00. Admission around 25Sfr. AEX<br />

NEW<br />

Stairs Baslerstrasse 50, 8Kappeli, www.stairsclub.ch.<br />

When you are queueing for this club, you will know immediately<br />

why it’s name is stairs. Its location on the roof top of the<br />

Letzipark shopping mall means you have to climb quite a few<br />

to get there. But as a fan of progressive, minimal and techno<br />

sounds, it’s well worth the extra effort - you can expect<br />

some wild clubbing. And with the (almost) never-ending after<br />

hours, the party here seems to go on forever. Q Open Fri<br />

23:00 - 08:00, Sat 23:00 - open end. Often free entry until<br />

01:00/02:00. Enter the club from Hohlstrasse.<br />

Adult entertainment<br />

If you are looking for sins of the flesh, and then<br />

probably you’re male, Zurich offers what you can expect<br />

of a city of its size. <strong>In</strong> Switzerland prostitution is legal,<br />

so in Zurich you can find everything from strip bars to<br />

brothels. Street prostitution is allowed in certain areas<br />

- for example at Häringstrasse in Niederdorf and in the<br />

northern part of the street Sihlquai next to Limmatplatz.<br />

Broadly speaking you have two options: most of the<br />

strip clubs - which are called nightclubs or cabarets - are<br />

located in the Niederdorf part of the old town or around<br />

Langstrasse west of the main train station. What you can<br />

expect there are expensive drinks (i.e. 20Sfr for a beer)<br />

and shows with half-naked ladies dancing on a pole until<br />

they are entirely naked.<br />

Brothels, sex and sauna clubs are generally situated<br />

in the suburbs or just outside the city. <strong>In</strong> the city<br />

you find such establishments around Häringstrasse<br />

in Niederdorf and around Dienerstrasse in the<br />

Langstrasse district.<br />

As in other places, many prosititutes work because they<br />

have few other income options or, even worse, because<br />

they are forced to. Street prostitutes are particularly<br />

likely to be victims of human trafficking. <strong>In</strong> the summer<br />

of 2010, several Zurich pimps received prison sentences<br />

for extreme violence against their prostitutes.<br />

Calypso F-3, Niederdorfstrasse 60, 8Central, tel.<br />

+41 44 252 33 70, www.calypso-nightclub.ch. The<br />

Calypso in the Niederdorf claims to have the only shower<br />

show in town. Apart from that there is the standard stage<br />

with two poles and a huge mirror in the back. Opens early.<br />

Q Open 11:00 - 04:00, Sat & Sun 18:00 - 04:00. A<br />

Moulin Rouge F-3, Mühlegasse 14, 8Rudolf-Brun-<br />

Brücke, tel. +41 44 262 07 30, www.nightclub<br />

-moulinrouge.ch. Decorated traditionally with red<br />

leather sofas, columns and table lamps, the Moulin Rouge<br />

has been entertaining gentlemen for more than 25 years.<br />

Centrally located. Q A<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s gay and lesbian<br />

capital and is in general quite gay-friendly. What better<br />

proof than the election of lesbian Corinne Mauch as mayor<br />

in 2009? Zurich’s vibrant gay and lesbian scene was one<br />

of the driving forces in creating today’s club culture. Of<br />

course, some of the gay/lesbian venues are cool places to<br />

hang out even if you’re hetero.<br />

Zurich’s gay and lesbian calendar has several major<br />

events, all in spring or summer. For over ten years a<br />

Christopher Street Day has been held in June. Called<br />

Zurich Pride Festival since 2010, this is a full week<br />

event with parties, open-air bars and a colourful march<br />

through the city. For some this is getting too mainstream,<br />

giving rise to the Off-Pride. <strong>In</strong> spring the Pink Apple<br />

film festival shows gay and lesbian films from all over<br />

the world and awards a prize to a young director. But<br />

the lesbian and gay scene is also very lively, big events<br />

aside. Whether you’re looking for a gay-friendly bar to<br />

relax in, gay and lesbian clubbing or venues of a more<br />

raunchy kind, you’ll find it in Zurich. At the moment there<br />

are only two clubs which are gay day in, day out, so most<br />

gay clubbing takes place in other venues. We list some<br />

of the best events, but check out the websites or ask in<br />

some of the bars too.<br />

Cafés, Bars & Hotels<br />

Cranberry F-3, Metzgergasse 3, 8Rathaus, tel. +41<br />

44 261 27 72, www.cranberry.ch. Campari is a major<br />

theme in this minimalist bar - a play on the most famous<br />

Swiss German pop song Campari Soda? You can certainly<br />

order campari soda, but the team will make you most any<br />

other cocktail - and well. The Cranberry is a buzzing bar for<br />

gays, lesbians and anybody gay-friendly. There are occasional<br />

theme parties. Check out the (mainly German) website for<br />

some useful gay links. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. JA<br />

It doesn’t get boring here: Zurich Pride Festival.<br />

Zurich Pride Festival<br />

Daniel H. C-3, Müllerstrasse 51, 8Stauffacher, tel.<br />

+41 44 241 41 78, www.danielh.ch. Daniel H. is a low-key<br />

star in Zurich’s gay bar scene. With no exuberant glamour<br />

and just the occasional party, Daniel H. is very relaxed<br />

and heterofriendly. The interior is a tasteful take on the<br />

1970s in brown and orange - yes, this can be an atrocious<br />

colour scheme, but here it works a treat. The Italian style<br />

sandwiches are also quite a treat. Good place to pick up flyers<br />

on gay parties and events in Zurich, they also sell tickets for<br />

some events. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat<br />

19:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon & Sun. NK<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

GAY <strong>ZURICH</strong><br />

Hotel Goldenes Schwert F-3, Marktgasse 14,<br />

8Rathaus, tel. +41 44 250 70 80, fax +41 44 250 70<br />

89, info@g-hotel.ch, www.gayhotel.ch. The ‘Golden Sword’<br />

is an overtly gay hotel, but that doesn’t mean they rub it in your<br />

face. The very clean, bright rooms come with toilet, bathtub,<br />

safe, desk, minibar and a bath robe. There is also Wi-fi in all<br />

rooms. The gay clubs T&M and AAAH! are in the same building,<br />

so it’s easy getting home. Though there’s no restaurant, you<br />

can have breakfast delivered to your room for 15Sfr. Rooms<br />

in the associated guest house around the corner are 40 to<br />

80Sfr cheaper, toilets there are shared. If you book on the<br />

internet, prices can be slightly lower. Parking in the in-house<br />

garage is 28Sfr a night. Q (5 singles 140 - 170Sfr, 14 doubles<br />

170 - 190Sfr, 3 suites 270 - 380Sfr). JA6LW hhh<br />

Predigerhof F-3, Mühlegasse 15, 8Rudolf-Brun<br />

Brücke, tel. +41 44 251 29 85, www.predigerhof.ch.<br />

The Predigerhof in the centre of the Niederdorf area is a sure<br />

bet, open 365 days a year until two in the morning. Order<br />

one of their sandwiches and a beer - or step it up a little and<br />

choose one of their champagnes. Maybe Lotti, the famed<br />

landlady, will join you. You can ask the Thai and Swiss staff<br />

for tips for gay events - but maybe you’ll just want to stay<br />

here, if they’re showing a game of soccer or the Eurovision<br />

song contest. Ask for the free wireless internet access. Q<br />

Open 14:00 - 02:00.<br />

Clubs & Parties<br />

Rage Wagistrasse 13, 8952 Schlieren, www.rage.ch.<br />

Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the works -<br />

darkrooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars. Sector c is<br />

fetish pure, with a strict dresscode and changing themes.<br />

Only men are admitted. Get there by train to Schlieren station<br />

or with bus 31 to the stop Wagonsfabrik. Nightbuses on the<br />

weekend. Q Thu 19:00-01:00, Fri 22:00-04:00, Sat 22:00-<br />

05:00, Sun 17:00-01:00 13-20Sfr. NX<br />

T&M and AAAH! F-3, Marktgasse 14, 8Rathaus, tel.<br />

+ 41 44 266 18 18, www.aaah.ch. Mix grand chandeliers,<br />

cubist-style murals and generous amounts of disco lights<br />

- and you get T&M’s decor. Tasteful or tacky, decide for<br />

yourself. The parties are definitely worth it, and while lesbians<br />

and friends are welcome, this is a decidedly gay club. The<br />

regular programm features r’n’b on Fridays while Saturdays<br />

drift more in direction house and charts. There are also<br />

occasional theme parties and regular drag shows, usually at<br />

22:00. Club AAAH! is in the same building and is a plan B for<br />

any day of the week. Q T&M open Wed - Sat 21:30 - 03:00,<br />

AAAH! open 22:30 - late, Sun - Tue 21:30 - late. T&M: free<br />

entry until 23:00, after that usually around 20Sfr, AAAH!: free<br />

admission on weekdays, otherwise around 25Sfr. If you pay<br />

to enter one, you often get free access to the other club.<br />

Tanzleila K-6, Club Exil, Hardstrasse 245, 8Schiffbau,<br />

www.tanzleila.ch. Tanzleila is a women-only dance party,<br />

sounds mixed only by DJanes. It’s not only lesbian, but a<br />

good place if you are. Q Every first Sunday of the month in<br />

Exil club - check website.<br />

Resources<br />

Zürigay online magazine, www .zurigay .ch. Zürigay<br />

is a Zurich-centred gay online community with a certain<br />

amount of English-language content. There’s a chat area,<br />

personals and a small listing of up-coming events. Click<br />

on guide for infos on gay venues. You have to register for<br />

access to some areas, a standard membership is free.<br />

October - November 2012<br />

39


40 <strong>ZURICH</strong> NORD<br />

The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and<br />

Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zurich Nord. The<br />

districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages<br />

and merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they<br />

nowadays host many international companies, the trade<br />

fair, some hotels and more and more restaurants and<br />

bars. You definitely don’t have to go to the city centre (even<br />

though it’s close) to have a good night out. Check out our<br />

favourites below:<br />

Restaurants<br />

NEW<br />

Asian Place (Renaissance Zürich Hotel)<br />

Thurgauerstrasse 101, 8Glattpark, tel. +41 44 874<br />

5721, www.asianplace.ch. The umbrella-like lamps on the<br />

ceiling and the wood-cladded walls make for an agreeable<br />

Asian atmosphere here - not to forget the all-Asian and<br />

attentive staff. But the pan-Asian food is more than plain<br />

agreeable: the taster menu we took was bursting with<br />

flavours. Be it the seabrass with the hot chilli and Thai-basil<br />

sauce or the beef with ginger and green onions - it was all<br />

excellent. So as a fan of Asian cuisine, the extra travel to<br />

get here is well worth it (tram N°10 or 11 to Glattpark). It’s<br />

closer than Asia. Q Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sat<br />

18:00 - 22:00, Sun closed. A<br />

Kai N-1, Ellen-Widmann-Weg 2, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon,<br />

tel. +41 43 538 42 47, www.kaibar.ch. Situated close<br />

to the Oerlikon train station, the Kai is a classic sushi bar<br />

with a modern and stylish decor complete with conveyor<br />

belt: sit at the counter and grab one of the maki, nigiri or<br />

uramaki running by. Or simply ask the chef on the other side<br />

to make your favourite creation. There are tables as well and<br />

The very best of<br />

Chinese, Japanese<br />

and Thai cuisines.<br />

SPECIALS<br />

Thursdays Asian rea u et<br />

Saturdays Sushi Sashii u et<br />

Renaissance Zurich Hotel<br />

Thurgauerstrasse 101<br />

1 richa par<br />

Tra Stop a par 10, 11 1<br />

www.asianplace.ch<br />

eserva ons 1 1<br />

a lot more than just sushi: menu deals, fried noodles, meat...<br />

Saturday night there is all you can eat sushi for 59Sfr - book<br />

seats in advance. QOpen 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00,<br />

Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Kitchen open until 22:00<br />

(22 - 34Sfr). AB<br />

Le Muh (Swissôtel) O-2, Schulstrasse 44, 8Bahnhof<br />

Oerlikon, tel. +41 44 317 33 91, www.lemuh.ch. Since<br />

the complete make over in 2011 the setting here is modern<br />

and really enjoyable, somewhere between business and<br />

casual - but definitely a far cry from the cowshed atmosphere<br />

the name might imply. The cuisine matches the interior: a<br />

modern take on Swiss and international dishes. The menu<br />

changes daily and most ingredients are sourced locally.<br />

Neither the prime burger nor the tartar gave us any reason<br />

whatsoever to complain. There are also vegetarian and even<br />

vegan options. Q Open 06:00 - 24:00, breakfast: 06:30 -<br />

10:30. (28 - 52Sfr). AB<br />

Rolli’s Steakhouse O-2, Schaffhauserstrasse<br />

352, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. +41 44 311 28 80,<br />

www.rollis-steakhouse.ch. A very popular steak house: if you<br />

are a meat lover, this is the place to go - beef pork, lamb, they<br />

have it all. But don’t forget to book a place in advance. All steaks<br />

are served on a hot stone - making you the grill chef yourself.<br />

Which also means there is no one else to blame if your steak<br />

is overdone. Steaks come with fries and three homemade<br />

sauces. The menu features pasta as well - but come on, who<br />

needs pasta if there’s meat? QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. Closed<br />

Sun. Kitchen open 11:00 - 22:00. (30 - 55Sfr). AB<br />

Ziegelhütte Hüttenkopfstrasse 70, tel. +41 44 322<br />

40 03, www.wirtschaft-ziegelhuette.ch. At the forest’s<br />

edge in Schwamendingen lies the Ziegelhütte, a real country<br />

inn within the city limits. On the menu you’ll find - surprise<br />

surprise - good, rustic dishes like älplermagronen (maccaroni<br />

and potatoes with cream and ham), schnitzel and risotto.<br />

Apart from the restaurant there is a huge beer garden (with<br />

meat from the barbecue) and lots of atmosphere, which<br />

makes it popular with hikers, day trippers, regulars and<br />

urbanistas alike. You can feel that they like what they do here.<br />

Take tram N°7 (direction Stettbach) to Schwamendingerplatz,<br />

from there it’s an easy 8-minute walk. Or hike there through<br />

the forest in little more than 30 minutes, starting at the zoo.<br />

Q Open 09:30 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 09:30 - 24:00, Mon closed.<br />

Occasional concerts in the hall.<br />

Nightlife<br />

Jaime El Barco N-1, Otto-Schütz-Weg 5, 8Bahnhof<br />

Oerlikon, tel. +41 44 310 21 70, www.jaime.ch. The<br />

Jaime is a bar with a South American touch in Zurich<br />

Nord, just next to the Courtyard Marriott. Hot panini<br />

for a snack, a frozen daiquiri or a margarita from the<br />

cocktail menu or a beer will cheer you up after a hard<br />

day of walking or working. There is table football and<br />

darts - quite some entertainment in this part of the city.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Oxa O-1, Andreasstrasse 70, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon /<br />

Leutschenbach, tel. +41 44 311 60 33, www.oxa.com.<br />

The Oxa has been up for more than 20 years now. And,<br />

it’s still one of the city’s finest locations for house, trance<br />

and minimal. Fans of this music travel a long way to<br />

come here. And they can stay long: the Oxa is well known<br />

for after-hour parties, closing usually only on Sunday<br />

towards midday. Q Sat 23:00 - 10:00, occasionally Fri.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Zurich’s largely intact mediaeval town on the one hand<br />

and its natural setting on the other are the city’s charms.<br />

It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries<br />

showing international art. Admission to many places is<br />

free, if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by<br />

reduced price, usually the children’s price, e.g. 10/5Sfr.<br />

Museums are usually closed on Mondays.<br />

Main sights<br />

If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city’s sights<br />

represents Zurich best, they’ll probably point to the<br />

Grossmünster, its unmistakable double towers making it<br />

the closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and<br />

Fraumünster complete the trinity of famous churches.<br />

Lindenhof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely<br />

spot today, while the central police station is another<br />

unlikely lovely spot - unless maybe you’re escorted there.<br />

Its entrance hall is splendidly decorated with work by<br />

Giacometti. But two of Zurich’s major attractions are not<br />

man-made at all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak.<br />

Fraumünster E-4, Stadthausquai 19, 8Helmhaus.<br />

Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the<br />

magnificent stained glass windows in the choir created<br />

by French artist Marc Chagall or the windows by Augusto<br />

Giacometti. But in days gone by this Gothic abbey dating<br />

from the 9th century was more than just pretty. Fraumünster,<br />

which literally means women’s abbey, belonged to the<br />

Benedictine convent whose abbess had wide powers in<br />

Zurich. Women came on harder times in the 16th century. The<br />

little archway on the outer corner of Fraumünster was used<br />

to limit decadence and elaborate clothing, and women’s wide<br />

hoop skirts had to fit through here, or else a fine was due.<br />

No visiting during Sunday services. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.<br />

St. Peter’s church, when the patron saint is being friendly.<br />

www.juanrubiano.com<br />

Giacometti murals E-3, Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai 3,<br />

8Bahnhofquai/HB. <strong>In</strong> the entrance hall to the city’s police<br />

headquarters, Augusto Giacometti’s magnificent murals<br />

(1923 - 1925) adorn the vaulted ceiling and the walls. Opening<br />

hours are quite short.QOpen 9:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 16:00.<br />

Admission free, ID required.<br />

Grossmünster F-4, Grossmünsterplatz, 8Helmhaus.<br />

The two towers of the originally Romanesque Grossmünster<br />

are Zurich’s landmark and they also offer a great view<br />

over Zurich, if you make it up the 187 narrow steps<br />

(4/2Sfr admission for the tower, open 10:00 - 17:00,<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHAT TO SEE<br />

Sun 12:30 - 17:00, closing time Nov - Feb 16:30). According<br />

to legend, Felix and Regula, Zurich’s patron saints, were<br />

beheaded at the site of the Wasserkirche and then walked<br />

up to where the Grossmünster stands, taking their heads<br />

with them. Centuries later the emperor Charlemagne was<br />

passing through Zurich and decided to found a church in<br />

honour of the martyrs - after a hint from his horse. Since the<br />

Reformation the church has a barren feel, alleviated only by<br />

the windows. Recently deceased German artist Sigmar Polke<br />

finished 12 simply beautiful windows in 2009, some made<br />

of semi-precious stones. Crypt and cloister with museum on<br />

the Reformation are also accessible.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00<br />

(Nov - Feb 10:00 - 17:00).<br />

Lake Zurich<br />

The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights and a walk<br />

along the shores is a must if you’re in Zurich, whatever the<br />

season. Start for example at Bellevue and walk along<br />

the promenade towards Zürichhorn. After a few hundred<br />

metres a park with trees and a lawn fills the expanse<br />

between the lake and the street. The huge Blatterwiese,<br />

also known as Chinawiese because the Chinese garden is<br />

just next to it, is popular for relaxing, sunbathing or playing<br />

sports. There is also a playground for kids. Continuing<br />

you get to Zürichhorn, a small delta with some lakeside<br />

restaurants and a small casino and later still to the railway<br />

station Tiefenbrunnen where you can hop on a tram (or<br />

train) back to Bellevue. The western shore of the lake is<br />

a bit less popular though just as nice for a walk. Start at<br />

the Arboretum and walk along the shore passing Enge<br />

port, the cactuses of the Sukkulentensammlung, and the<br />

Mythenquai until you reach the Landiwiese, a large field<br />

where many cultural events take place. If you go just a<br />

little further, you can enjoy a beer in the restaurant of the<br />

offstream cultural centre Rote Fabrik, red factory, marked<br />

by the red brick factory chimney.<br />

Lake Zurich Cruises (Lake Zurich Navigation<br />

Company ZSG) E-5, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz,<br />

tel. +41 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch. The Lake Zurich<br />

Navigation Company operates ships on Lake Zurich and<br />

the River Limmat. If you just want ten minutes of captains’<br />

uniforms and brass foghorns, the routes Bürkliplatz-<br />

Wollishofen and Bürkliplatz-Zürichhorn are included in<br />

any public transport ticket covering zone ten. If that’s not<br />

enough for you, go the whole hog with a roundtrip. Until<br />

October 21 there are four different ones: the longest<br />

lasts four hours taking you all the way to Rapperswil at<br />

the other end of the lake and back, the shortest is 90<br />

minutes. They all start from the port at Bürkliplatz close<br />

to Bellevue several times a day. After October 21 there are<br />

fewer cruises a day. Tickets and timetables are available at<br />

the port.QTickets for roundtrips 8.20 - 24Sfr, children half<br />

the price, discount with Zurich public transport day cards.<br />

www.juanrubiano.com<br />

October - November 2012<br />

41


42 WHAT TO SEE<br />

Zurich in 48 hours<br />

You’re in town for only two days? Too short, of course!<br />

But here is our Zurich-in-48-hours suggestion.<br />

On your first day, start with a stroll through the old town,<br />

an absolute must for every Zurich visitor. Our one-hour<br />

stroll (p. 46) for instance will take you to all the main<br />

sights like the mediaeval Lindenhof Square as well as<br />

the churches St. Peter, Grossmünster and Fraumünster.<br />

On a sunny day, climb up the the tower of Grossmünster<br />

church (p. 41) and enjoy the view over the city. After the<br />

stroll, walk over to Paradeplatz, for a coffee break at café<br />

Sprüngli (p. 33), Zurich’s most famous confectioner. Don’t<br />

forget to try their trademark luxemburgerlis, macaroons<br />

in all kinds of flavours.<br />

Thus fortified, you’re ready for some action before lunch:<br />

take to the lake (p. 41). From Bellevue walk along the<br />

lakeside until you reach the park Chinawiese and maybe<br />

drop into the Chinagarten for an unexpected glimpse<br />

of Chinese culture. To get back to Bellevue, take the<br />

ship (ship stop Casino to Bürkliplatz). There it’s time<br />

for a Zurich-style lunch: have the city’s most famous<br />

bratwurst (veal sausage) at Sternen Grill (p. 32). Now<br />

how about some culture? The Kunsthaus (p. 43) with<br />

its excellent collection of modern art is a good choice.<br />

Feeling excited? <strong>Your</strong> only dinner in town is coming up!<br />

For hearty Swiss fare like zürcher geschnetzeltes in<br />

a down-to-earth atmosphere, try Rheinfelder Bierhalle<br />

(p. 32) or Federal (Bahnhofplatz 15). If the cheese specialites<br />

fondue or raclette are what you’re after, try Le<br />

Dézaley (p. 28) - or simply take a few minutes to read<br />

through our restaurant chapter and choose something<br />

that suits your taste. For an after-dinner drink, move<br />

over to the vibrant Langstrasse area with its countless<br />

bars: La Catrina (p. 36) or Casablanca (p. 35). You prefer<br />

more class? Try Metropol (p. 35) with cocktails and sushi.<br />

On your second day make sure you get a good breakfast,<br />

because now you’ll have to climb a mountain. Or at least<br />

ride up it. Take the S10 train from the main station to<br />

Uetliberg (on the right), Zurich’s own little mountain. Up on<br />

top, walk to the peak (10 minutes) and climb the lookout<br />

tower for an incredible view towards the Alps and the city.<br />

You can get back the same way or hike down to a halfway<br />

train stop - or let your feet take you all the way down.<br />

<strong>In</strong> the afternoon a visit of Giacometti’s murals is on the<br />

schedule (p. 41). They are something like Zurich’s secret<br />

main sight, located right in the entrance hall of the police<br />

headquarters. After taking in their warm colours, you<br />

might be ready for a small shopping tour on renowned<br />

Bahnhofstrasse (for shopping see p. 51). Alternatively<br />

relax on a bench in the nearby old botanical garden<br />

- and invent an excuse for your boss, so you can stay<br />

another day.<br />

www.juanrubiano.com<br />

Lindenhof E-3, 8Rathaus. This idyllic square on a little hill<br />

in Zurich’s centre used to be an important place. The Romans<br />

set up shop here and later mediaeval royals would stay here<br />

when travelling in the region. Check out the replica Roman<br />

tomb stone in the right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse leading down<br />

and out of the square. The view from here over the Limmat<br />

is very pretty and on sunny days you can join in a game of<br />

chess at the back of the square.<br />

Uetliberg. The Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little mountain,<br />

marking the end of the Albis mountain chain on the western<br />

side of Lake Zurich. It rises up to 869 metres a.s.l. - towering<br />

around 450 metres over the city. There is a lookout tower<br />

on top bringing you to exactly 900 metres a.s.l. and offering<br />

a stunning view over the city, the lake and on to the Alps.<br />

The mountain is a popular local recreation area all year<br />

round. There is a train (S 10 from track 1 or 2) from the<br />

main station twice an hour (more on weekends). Be aware<br />

that you need an additional ticket even if you have a day<br />

pass for Zurich, because the Uetliberg is not within the city<br />

zone 10 (buy a 1 - 2 additional zones’ day ticket at the ticket<br />

machine). From the terminal station it’s an easy 10-minute<br />

walk to the peak with the lookout tower (free access) and a<br />

restaurant. You can also walk up from the city to the peak.<br />

Take tram N°13 in direction Albisgüetli and get off at the<br />

last stop. From there two different paths lead to the top,<br />

both taking about an hour. To follow the Denzlerweg, walk<br />

at first towards the restaurant Kolbenhof (follow the signs).<br />

After that, the path goes into the forest and rises steeply<br />

with lots of wooden stairs - at the end there is even a ladder<br />

and a chain to help you climb the final rock. A bit easier but<br />

The restaurant on Uetliberg, high above Zurich, with views<br />

to Germany and the Alps. Christian Baracchi<br />

also steep is the Laternenpfad leading straight into the<br />

forest after the final stop - it’s illuminated at night. An easier<br />

way is to take the train and get off one stop before the top<br />

at Ringlikon, from where a gently climbing path leads you in<br />

roughly 40 minutes to the lookout point on the Uetliberg.<br />

You do not need hiking equipment, but we recommend good<br />

shoes and staying on the path.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Museums<br />

Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them<br />

with all kind of exhibitions. We list the most popular ones<br />

and the ones we like best. You can find information in<br />

English on all the museums on www.museen-zuerich.ch.<br />

Ethnographic Museum (Völkerkundemuseum)<br />

D-4, Pelikanstrasse 40, 8Rennweg / Selnau, tel.<br />

+41 44 634 90 11, www.musethno.uzh.ch. Need<br />

magic? Then this is the place to go. The treasures of the<br />

Ethnographic Museum include hundreds of implements<br />

for magic or other rituals. The textiles, wood carvings and<br />

pottery come from outside Europe, with one of the main<br />

focuses on Buddhist and Hindu objects from the <strong>In</strong>dian<br />

subcontinent. The museum, which is pleasantly located in<br />

Zurich’s old botanical gardens also has a large collection<br />

of ethnographic photographs and a specialised library.<br />

Changing exhibitions with explanations and audioguides<br />

sometimes but not always in English. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00,<br />

14:00-17:00, Sat 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed<br />

Mon. Admission free.<br />

Kindercity Chlirietstrasse12, Volkestwil, tel. +41 43<br />

204 30 60, www.kindercity.ch. A science city for kids<br />

aged 0 to 12. See page 50.<br />

Kunsthaus G-4, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. +41<br />

44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Zurich’s major art<br />

museum has an impressive collection with work by many<br />

Swiss artists such as Füssli, Hodler, Segantini or Bill and<br />

the largest collection of Alberto Giacometti’s work including<br />

some of his trademark haggard statues. Work by international<br />

artists like Manet, Van Gogh, Kokoschka or Baselitz also<br />

please the eye and mind. Additionally there are usually two<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHAT TO SEE<br />

The National Museum, showcasing Swiss national history.<br />

MV<br />

very worthwhile temporary exhibitions, one large, one small<br />

(see section Culture & Events). English language audioguides<br />

available. Cafe and shop on the ground floor. Q Open 10:00<br />

- 18:00, Wed - Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. Admission for<br />

collection 15/10Sfr, for exhibitions 22/14.50Sfr, combined<br />

ticket 23.50/15.50.<br />

Titlis – Eternal Snow and Glaciers<br />

We show you the BEST…<br />

Zürich City-Tours Lucerne Excursion Rigi – Queen of the Mountains Pilatus – Golden Roundtrip<br />

and a lot more of beautiful Switzerland!<br />

<strong>In</strong>formation & Bookings:<br />

www.switzerland-tours.ch<br />

info@switzerland-tours.ch<br />

Phone: +41 (0)44 710 50 50<br />

October - November 2012<br />

43


44 WHAT TO SEE<br />

Meet Joyce, Lenin & Co<br />

Artists, scientists, political visionaries - Zurich has been<br />

home to some of the greatest and most original minds of<br />

the last century or two. You can follow their footsteps, see<br />

many of the houses they lived and worked in and the graves<br />

where they are laid to rest. We’ve listed the sites for you,<br />

which also include museums and even a pub!<br />

The genius par excellence, Albert Einstein, studied natural<br />

sciences from 1896 to 1900 at the Polytechnikum, today’s<br />

Federal <strong>In</strong>stitute of Technology (ETH), where he later<br />

became professor before being awarded the Nobel prize<br />

in physics in 1921. Some of the new arrivals fleeing the<br />

First World War had revolutions on their minds. Marxists and<br />

future Russian revolutionaries Vladimir Lenin and his wife<br />

Nadezhda Krupskaya spent a year of their exile in Zurich.<br />

The couple Emmy Hennings and Hugo Ball were to trigger<br />

a revolution right in the middle of Zurich itself: the antieverything<br />

art movement Dada. Both active on stage, they<br />

were forced to leave Germany in 1915 due to their criticism<br />

of the war. Swiss artist and dancer Sophie Täuber was<br />

also part of the Dada circle, but went her own ways. She<br />

began to paint in an abstract geometric style, thus laying<br />

the ground for constructivist art. Another war refugee, Irish<br />

author James Joyce, lived in Zurich from 1915 to 1919,<br />

where he wrote large parts of his modern classic Ulysses<br />

and died in 1941 (photo shows his grave). The furnishings<br />

of the James Joyce Pub are from the Jury pub in Dublin,<br />

mentioned in Ulysses. Renegade psychoanalyst Carl<br />

Gustav Jung worked at the Burghölzli psychiatric asylum<br />

in Zurich from 1905 to 1909. Thomas Mann, author of<br />

epics such as the Buddenbrocks and Nobel prize winner,<br />

also had close ties to Zurich and died here in 1955.The<br />

Thomas Mann Archive runs a small museum about his life.<br />

Sites and addresses<br />

Albert Einstein<br />

Memorial plaque, Unionsstrasse 4, 8 Hottingerplatz<br />

Vladimir Lenin and Nadezhda Krupskaya<br />

Memorial plaque, Spiegelgasse 14, 8 Rathaus<br />

Dada art movement<br />

Cabaret Voltaire, Spiegelgasse 1, 8 Rathaus<br />

Constructivists<br />

Haus Konstruktiv, Selnaustrasse 25, 8 Sihlstrasse<br />

James Joyce<br />

Memorial plaque, Universitätsstrasse 38, 8 Haldenbach<br />

James Joyce Foundation, www.joycefoundation.ch<br />

Friedhof (Cemetery) Fluntern, Zürichbergstr. 189, 8 Zoo<br />

James Joyce Pub, Pelikanstrasse 8, 8 Rennweg<br />

Thomas Mann<br />

Thomas-Mann-Archiv, Schönberggasse 15. Open Wed<br />

& Sat 14:00 - 16:00, admission free. 8 Kantonsschule<br />

Museum Rietberg C-7, Gablerstrasse 15, 8Museum<br />

Rietberg, tel. +41 44 206 31 31, www.rietberg.ch. An<br />

internationally recognised collection of art from Asia, Africa,<br />

the Americas and further afield is on show at the Rietberg<br />

Museum, in permanent and temporary exhibitions (see<br />

section Culture & Events). The museum is housed in several<br />

impressive villas and pavillons, all set in Rieterpark, a garden<br />

which is worth a visit in itself.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Wed &<br />

Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission: 16/12Sfr for<br />

the exhibitions and the permanent collection, 12/10 for the<br />

collection, children under 16 free.<br />

National Museum (Landesmuseum) E-2,<br />

Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 218<br />

65 11, www.musee-suisse.ch. It will take you a while to<br />

get through the permanent exhibition on Swiss history, but<br />

hey, it took centuries to accumulate. Complete with sights,<br />

sounds, slides and secret bank accounts, this is not some<br />

bone-dry collection of old things. There are four thematic<br />

areas: the first section shows the history of migration and<br />

settlement, the second examines religious and intellectual<br />

history, the third is dedicated to Swiss political history and<br />

the fourth section focusses on economy. For most exhibits<br />

explanations in English are available. <strong>In</strong> the west wing of the<br />

museum the exhibition Swiss Furniture and <strong>In</strong>teriors shows<br />

11 period rooms, among them for example a living room from<br />

the mediaeval Castle Wiggen. The armour tower displays<br />

arms of national and international importance. Besides<br />

that there are temporary exhibitions on changing topics (see<br />

Culture & Events section of this guide). The courtyard of the<br />

fairy-tale castle the museum is housed in is a nice place for<br />

a drink. English-language guided tour through the permanent<br />

collection every Tue at 11:00. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Thu<br />

10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. 10/8Sfr.<br />

NEW<br />

Shedhalle Seestrasse 395, 8Rote Fabrik, tel. +41 44<br />

481 59 50, www.shedhalle.ch. Shedhalle defines itself<br />

as a ’cultural think tank’ and shows visual art which is often<br />

provocative and political, engaging with controversial and<br />

neglected subjects. Recent exhibitions included The F-Word,<br />

in which four artists grappled with what feminism could mean<br />

today or Im/Possible Community, which asked questions<br />

about individualism, migration and what makes consensus or<br />

collective action possible. Shedhalle breaks with traditional<br />

forms, both in the art shown and with the institution of joint<br />

curatorship practiced since 1994. QOpen 13:00 - 18:00,<br />

Sat & Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. 5/3Sfr.<br />

Gardens & Parks<br />

NEW<br />

Hardau Park Badenerstrasse, 8Albisriederstrasse.<br />

The Hardau park is one of Zurich’s newest parks, in the<br />

Hardau district well to the west of Langstrasse, an area with<br />

cheaper apartment blocks and a large immigrant population.<br />

The highlight of this multifunctional park is the huge white<br />

y-shaped sculpture by Sisley Xhafa. Does it scream ‘why’? Is<br />

it a catapult? Yes, but it’s also a giant toy, a swing open for<br />

use by the parks visitors, which glows in different colours when<br />

used. Xhafa, a Kosovar living in New York, picks up on serious<br />

subjects: resistance, conflict, despair, subjects the immigrant<br />

knows particularly well. And who isn’t an immigrant nowadays?<br />

Zurich Zoo J-1, Zürichbergstrasse 221, 8Zoo, tel.<br />

+41 848 96 69 83, www.zoo.ch. Zurich Zoo is located on<br />

the Zürichberg high above the city. The pride of this zoological<br />

garden which was opened in 1929 is the Masoala Rainforest<br />

hall, simulating the ecosystem in the Masoala National park in<br />

Madagascar on some 10,000sqm. Animals like lemurs or giant<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

tortoises can move freely around in the hall as you watch and<br />

walk by on a path through the forest. Keep your eyes peeled,<br />

probably a chameleon is sitting on a branch right next to you.<br />

But the rainforest is not the only thing worth seeing. Since<br />

1992 Zurich Zoo has gradually been changing the traditionalstyle<br />

enclosures into whole ecosystems which better meet the<br />

animals’ needs, e.g. an <strong>In</strong>dian dry forest for the lions. Q Open<br />

09:00 - 18:00 (Nov - Feb 09:00 - 17:00). Masoala hall opens<br />

at 10:00. Admission 22/16 (16 - 25 years)/11Sfr.<br />

Churches<br />

See Main sights at the beginning of this chapter for the<br />

churches Fraumünster and Grossmünster.<br />

Zurich’s Romanesque landmark, the Grossmünster.<br />

Zurich Tourism (MB)<br />

St. Peter E-4, St.-Peter-Hofstatt, 8Paradeplatz. St.<br />

Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on all four<br />

sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The diameter<br />

of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres - they are said to be the<br />

biggest in Europe. The first mayor of Zurich, Rudolf Brun, was<br />

buried here in 1360 - a copy of his tomb stone can be seen<br />

on the northern side of the church. The nave of the church<br />

was finished in 1706, while the choir and the tower date from<br />

a Romanesque church built in 1230. This was the first church<br />

in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship after<br />

the Reformation. Don’t miss the unfortunately partly faded<br />

mediaeval murals in the choir. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat<br />

10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.<br />

Sightseeing tours<br />

Best of Zurich - Zürich City Tour E-1, Bus Terminal<br />

Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai / HB, tel. +41 44 710 50 50,<br />

www.switzerland-tours.ch. A city tour including a short<br />

stroll through the old town and a ride with the Dolderbahn<br />

rack-and-pinion railway up into the residential area Zürichberg.<br />

The most exciting Swiss Family-Center<br />

Play with science (from babies to adults)<br />

The ‘factory‘ (chocolate, bread, cooking, cars, creative)<br />

Outdoor area with driving school<br />

Themed restaurant and Edustore<br />

From Zürich Mainstation – S-Bahn S9 or S14 (15 minutes) · Open 363 days a year<br />

Chlirietstrasse 12 | 8604 Volketswil ZH | www.kindercity.ch<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHAT TO SEE<br />

<strong>In</strong> little more than two hours you get to see Bahnhofstrasse<br />

and the financial district, the old guild houses along<br />

Limmatquai and the universities. There is a live commentary<br />

in English and German, audioguides in Spanish, Russian,<br />

Chinese and Japanese available. Q Starts daily 13:00 at the<br />

bus terminal Sihlquai next to the main train station. Tickets<br />

available on the spot, reservation by phone recommended.<br />

Tickets 34/17Sfr.<br />

Ghost Walk of Zurich E-4, Paradeplatz, 8Paradeplatz,<br />

tel. +41 44 941 45 65, www.ghostwalk.ch. This tour<br />

is not for the faint-hearted: Dan Dent will tell you all about<br />

Zurich’s Ghosts on a walk through the old town - in English<br />

only. Listen to this great entertainer and get to know the<br />

Schipfe Poltergeist or the ghost of Zurich’s first mayor,<br />

Rudolf Brun. QEvery Thu & Fri at 20:00 at Paradeplatz.<br />

Meeting point is next to the fountain. No need to book, just<br />

show up. 15/10Sfr.<br />

Stories of the Old Town - Guided walk E-2, Tourist<br />

Office Main Train Station, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41<br />

44 215 40 88, www.zuerich.com. A professional guide<br />

will take you on this two-hour walk through the old town of<br />

Zurich. Discover the city’s history and listen to anecdotes<br />

from its past in English and German. Good choice if you<br />

really want to see the old town, where the bus tours can’t<br />

go. For other walks ask at the tourist information at the<br />

main station. Reservation by phone recommended. Q<br />

Starts at the tourist office at the main railway station. Daily<br />

3pm, additional Sat/Sun 11am. From Nov 1 only Wed, Sun<br />

11:00 and Sat 11:00 & 15:00. 25/12.50Sfr, 50% discount<br />

with Zurich Card.<br />

Markets<br />

Flea Market Kanzlei C-3, Kanzleistrasse 56,<br />

8Helvetiaplatz, www.flohmarktkanzlei.ch. This is<br />

probably Switzerland’s biggest year-round flea market. Up<br />

to 400 people put their second-hand goods on sale here<br />

every Saturday, professional traders as well as people<br />

who are just flogging things they don’t need anymore.<br />

Definitely worth a visit even if you’re not really looking<br />

for anything. Q Sat 08:00 - 16:00.<br />

Rosenhofmarkt F-3, Rosenhof, 8Rathaus,<br />

www.rosenhof.ch. <strong>In</strong>cense sticks, trinkets and hippiestyle<br />

clothes are on offer on Thursdays and Saturdays at<br />

the Rosenhof, a hidden square in the Niederdorf part of<br />

the old town. Artists also sell their handcrafted jewellery<br />

and pottery. There is also food from aurond the world. Q<br />

March - September Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.<br />

Factory<br />

Reservation<br />

043 204 30 60<br />

October - November 2012<br />

45


46 OLD-TOWN STROLL<br />

Stroll through the old town (1hr)<br />

Subtle shades in the evening sun on Fortunagasse.<br />

zuerichfoto.ch<br />

Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the River<br />

Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and heads<br />

upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third. We set<br />

off at the bridge named after Zurich’s first mayor, Rudolf-<br />

Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from Bahnhofstrasse<br />

or by walking along the Limmat (down Bahnhofquai) from the<br />

main train station. At the bridge’s south-western corner, just<br />

by the Swiss handicrafts shop, head down the steps to the<br />

metal walkway leading upstream along the Limmat, almost<br />

touching the water (Heiri-Steg). Soon you’re on a cobbled<br />

street (Schipfe), with some miniature antiques shops and<br />

boutiques on the right and the restaurant Schipfe 16, a work<br />

project for unemployed and well worth a quick stop, on the<br />

left.<br />

Just after Schipfe 16 take the climb up to Lindenhof (see<br />

page 43), just turn right and up Fortunagasse and then left<br />

into Lindenhof with its tall trees, one of the oldest parts of<br />

Zurich. The mediaeval German kings would stop over here<br />

and the Romans also occupied the spot in their day and age.<br />

Take in the view over the parapet or play with the royals who<br />

are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess.<br />

Leaving Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down<br />

Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which<br />

mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall.<br />

Ahead of you is the church tower of St. Peter (see page<br />

45), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most<br />

peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, one of the<br />

alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to the<br />

second bridge, Rathausbrücke, also known as the<br />

vegetable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market held<br />

here on Saturdays.<br />

On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the town<br />

hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left, a good<br />

place for an outdoor coffee if the weather is friendly. Our<br />

rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the tram lines<br />

on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where you’ll find, by the<br />

way, one of Zurich’s prettiest flower shops. Turn right at the<br />

top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main throughway<br />

of pedestrian Niederdorf (see page 11), the other part of the<br />

old town. The cultural references come hard and fast now.<br />

On the right is Cabaret Voltaire, from where the Dada<br />

movement - jolifanto bambla o falli bambla - set off to confuse<br />

the bourgeoisie in 1916.<br />

A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is<br />

Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at<br />

least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach coffee<br />

roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick your<br />

nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you pass<br />

the Bodega Española on your right, that is if you don’t drop<br />

in for a beer and a plate of tapas. Here one of the few Swiss<br />

authors of world renown, Max Frisch, met with other writers in<br />

the 1940s to 1960s.<br />

A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque<br />

- style abbey, the somewhat austere Grossmünster with<br />

it’s double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic spires<br />

added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river, the<br />

third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful<br />

Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. If you trace<br />

a line between the two münsters, the Wasserkirche or water<br />

church comes to lie in the middle, completing the holy trinity.<br />

Take the steps from the Grossmünster courtyard down to<br />

the Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery by the<br />

river and then cross the bridge to Fraumünster (see<br />

page 42) to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows by<br />

Chagall. You’ve seen all the really important parts of Zurich’s<br />

old town now and can finish off with one of Zurich’s other<br />

major attractions - the lake - which is just five minutes walk<br />

further along the river.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

If you have some more time on your hands, you might<br />

want to explore a bit further afield and leave Zurich for a<br />

day. We’ve put together a selection of easily reachable<br />

outdoor destinations, cultural sites and thermal baths. Be<br />

it for recreation or for some fun with your kids - we’re sure<br />

you will find something suitable.<br />

Culture & Heritage<br />

Pumpkin it up! Pumpkin art at Jucker Farm. PD<br />

NEW<br />

Bruno Weber’s Skulpturenpark (sculpture park)<br />

Zur Weinrebe, Dietikon, tel. + 41 44 740 02 71,<br />

www.bruno-weber.com. Architect and artist Bruno Weber’s<br />

(1931 - 2011) passion were huge concrete sculptures: from<br />

1962 onwards he worked constantly on his sculpture garden<br />

around his home in Dietikon, just outside Zurich. The park<br />

features countless of his sculptures - mythical creatures,<br />

animal-like beings, mostly colourful and some of them<br />

even inhabitable. The highlights are a water garden with a<br />

winged dog more than 100 metres long and Weber’s fairytale<br />

castle like home - definitely a memorable experience. Get<br />

to Dietikon with the S3 or S9 train (duration 14 min). From<br />

there follow the sculpture path, there are signs or just follow<br />

the sculptures (30 minutes). You can also take Bus 306<br />

to terminus (Stadthalle), from there follow the sculptures<br />

for some minutes. Q Open Wed 13:00 - 18:00, Sat & Sun<br />

11:00 - 18:00, Nov - March: Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission<br />

12/10/8Sfr.<br />

Glassblowing Factory - Glasi Hergiswil Seestrasse<br />

12, Hergiswil, tel. +41 41 632 32 32, www.glasi.ch. The<br />

Glasi in Hergiswil is not just a museum: first and foremost it’s<br />

a working glass factory where craftsmen blow glass objects<br />

such as vases, wine glasses or christmas tree decorations.<br />

You can watch the glassblowers at work and you can blow<br />

your own glass ball under supervision. Different exhibitions<br />

and a museum show the history of the factory, the different<br />

physical properties of glass, like singing glass and period<br />

glass products. There is also a glass maze which is quite<br />

a challenge to navigate - dimly lit with coloured lights, the<br />

reflections and transparencies keep you on your toes. You<br />

can buy a large range of handmade glass products at the<br />

Glasi. To get there take a train to Luzern (Lucerne) from<br />

Zurich main train station (dep. 04 and 35 past the hour) and<br />

change there to the train to Hergiswil (1h 15’) or the ship<br />

(takes longer), then it’s just five minutes walk from the railway<br />

station or the jetty. The SBB has reduced offers. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Admission free<br />

except for the museum (7Sfr) and to the glass maze (5Sfr).<br />

Making your own glass ball costs 15Sfr.<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

DAY TRIPS IN AUTUMN<br />

Pumpkin exhibition (Jucker Farm Art)<br />

Dorfstrasse 23, Seegräben, tel. +41 44 934 34 84,<br />

www.juckerfarmart.ch. They really take pumpkins<br />

seriously here. There are dozens of sculptures showing<br />

olympic sports - yes, made of pumpkins - and then there<br />

are 500 (!) varieties of pumpkins to admire and buy, if<br />

you like. Of course there is a restaurant which serves all<br />

kinds of pumpkin dishes. You and your kids can also carve<br />

pumpkins, tools are provided. An impressive and slightly<br />

quirky destination which many children love. A little walk takes<br />

you to pretty lake Pfäffikon just next to the farm. Q Open<br />

until November 4, 09:00 - 18:00, Thu - Sat 09:00 - 22:00.<br />

To get there, take the S14 train (x.12 and x.42) in direction<br />

of Hinwil, get off at Aathal. From there it’s a 20 minute walk.<br />

Until the end of October, there is a shuttle bus to the farm<br />

Wed, Sat & Sun afternoon.<br />

Technorama - Swiss Science Centre<br />

Technoramastrasse 1, Winterthur, tel. +41 52 244<br />

08 44, www.technorama.ch. <strong>In</strong> the Technorama science<br />

centre the usual museum slogan ‘Do not touch’ is replaced<br />

by ‘Try it!’ - your participation is not only invited but expected.<br />

And it’s not just pressing buttons - what you decide actually<br />

alters the results of the displayed experiments. These<br />

experiments are designed to help visitors understand natural<br />

phenomena and technology. More than 500 exhibits on three<br />

floors and 6,500m2 await to be explored. The Technorama is<br />

divided into twelve sections: automation, lights and visions,<br />

magnetism, mathemagics and mechanics - to name a few.<br />

Most of the exhibits are not only explained in German, but<br />

English, French and Italian too. Great for children, but for<br />

Mum and Dad as well. To get there take a train to Winterthur<br />

from Zurich main train station (eight per hour), then take bus<br />

N°5 to Technorama. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.<br />

Admission 25/21/14Sfr.<br />

HAVE FUN AND RELAX!<br />

Show this voucher at the entrance and<br />

<br />

20% discount<br />

on the regular Alpamare admission fees.<br />

Offer valid on weekdays until December 23rd 2012.<br />

<strong>In</strong>cl. maximum three accompanying persons.<br />

Offer is not valid with other discounts or special offers.<br />

<br />

Cobra-Code: ZRH<br />

The biggest fun and<br />

waterpark in Europe!<br />

www.alpamare.ch<br />

October - November 2012<br />

47


48<br />

DAY TRIPS IN AUTUMN<br />

Thermal baths & Waterparks<br />

Alpamare Gwattstrasse 12, Pfäffikon SZ, tel. +41<br />

55 415 15 15, www.alpamare.ch. Alpamare is the<br />

biggest covered waterpark in Europe, just 45 minutes<br />

by train from Zurich. There are ten slides with a length of<br />

more than 1,500 metres and different levels of difficulty,<br />

a wave pool, a river-like pool and a iodine brine bath with<br />

massage jets. Alpamare will definitely brighten up a rainy<br />

day, not just for kids. Up to five connections per hour<br />

take you from Zurich to Pfäffikon SZ (SZ means in canton<br />

Schwyz). From there, take bus No 195 to the Seedamm-<br />

Center (no service on Sundays) or walk there in 15<br />

minutes. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri & Sat 10:00 - 23:00,<br />

Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A four-hour stay is 39/31.50Sfr. On<br />

weekends a surcharge of 3Sfr applies. Get a 20% discount<br />

with the voucher in this guide (not valid on weekends).<br />

Thermalbad & Spa Zürich C-5,<br />

Brandschenkestrasse 150, 8Waffenplatzstrasse,<br />

www.thermalbad-zuerich.ch. Zurich’s first thermal bath<br />

is located in the buildings that once were home to the<br />

brewery Hürlimann in Zurich Enge using the spring water<br />

that was sold as Aqui, Zurich’s own mineral water. There<br />

are different pools, some of them in the old stone cellars<br />

as well as an outdoor area on the rooftop open all year,<br />

with a view over the city and towards the Alps. Besides<br />

whirlpools, massage jets and relaxing zones there is a<br />

Irish-Roman Spa area with ten different stations like a<br />

peeling niche or a herbal steam for the complete release<br />

of your body (extra fee applies). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.<br />

Admission 32/16Sfr, children up to 6 years free.<br />

Thermalbad Zurzach Dr. Martin Erb Strasse, Bad<br />

Zurzach, tel. +41 56 265 28 28, www.badzurzach.info.<br />

Enjoy the warm water of the thermal spring in Bad<br />

Zurzach (when it reaches the surface it’s 39.5°C) in<br />

four pools with different temperatures and a surface<br />

of more than 1,200m2. Muscle-loosening massage<br />

jets, a river-like stream pool with a waterfall and in the<br />

evening one pool is lit by special LED-lights. The warm<br />

mineralized water is said to boost your blood circulation<br />

and to be good against rheumatism. The journey to Bad<br />

Zurzach from Zurich takes 50 minutes by train (twice<br />

an hour, change train in Baden). From the station in<br />

Bad Zurzach there is a free bus to the baths. Q Open<br />

07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 07:00 - 20:30.<br />

Admission 17.80/10/5.50Sfr.<br />

Outdoor destinations & tours<br />

Hörnli - hiking and downhill scooters Hörnli, Steg,<br />

www.berggasthaus-hoernli.ch. With a height of 1133<br />

metres a.s.l. the Hörnli is the highest mountain in the canton<br />

of Zurich. It’s perfect for a short hike through forests and<br />

grassland and an easy peak even if you are not much into<br />

mountains. Up on the Hörnli you have a view over the hills of<br />

Zürich and towards the eastern Alps. Take for example a train<br />

to Steg and hike to the top in around 1.5 h. On the peak there is<br />

a restaurant where you can rent a kick scooter to ride downhill<br />

back to the train station (20/15Sfr). Q Tuesday closed. To<br />

get to Steg, take the S15 train to Rüti (departure x.40), there<br />

change to the S26 (destination Winterthur). Duration: 51<br />

minutes. Call +41 55 245 12 02 to prebook scooters.<br />

NEW<br />

Kerenzerberg - hiking and downhill scooters<br />

Talalpstrasse 15, Filzbach, tel. +41 55 614 16 16,<br />

www.sportbahnen-kerenzerberg.ch. This is a perfect<br />

destination for some autumn walking and hiking not too far<br />

from Zurich. From Filzbach take a ride with the chairlift to the<br />

Habergschwänd mountain station (1280 meters asl). There<br />

you can either just take a short walk, enjoy the seasonal<br />

colours of the trees and the views and have lunch in the<br />

restaurant or set off for some real hiking, for example up to<br />

peak Nüenchamm (1904 meters asl, up and down 3.5 hours,<br />

trekking shoes needed). To get back to the valley there is<br />

a far cooler way than the chairlift - rent a scooter and ride<br />

the 7.5 kilometers down the asphalt road. It’s real fun, no<br />

kidding! There are many more hiking and walking options,<br />

including the lovely mountain lake Talalpsee. Take a train in<br />

direction of Linthal, get off at Näfels-Mollis. There take a bus<br />

in direction of Obstalden, get off at Filzbach Post (duration all<br />

in all 75 minutes). Q Chairlift 9.50/8Sfr one way, scooter<br />

14/12Sfr per ride. Chairlift runs until the end of October<br />

09:00 - 16:30, Nov closed.<br />

The majestic Churfirsten mountains in Toggenburg valley.<br />

PD<br />

Mount Chäserrugg - Toggenburg Toggenburg<br />

Bergbahnen AG, Unterwasser, tel. +41 71 998 68 14,<br />

www.top-of-toggenburg.ch. The Toggenburg, a beautiful<br />

valley in the canton of St. Gallen, is a nice destination for a<br />

daytrip to the foothills of the Alps - and hills get pretty high<br />

here. Public transport gets you from Zurich to Unterwasser<br />

(change to a bus in Buchs SG), from where you have access<br />

to the cable car to Iltios, and mount Chäserrugg (2262 m<br />

a.s.l.). At the top there is a restaurant and a panorama trail<br />

with stunning views towards Lake Walensee and the Grison<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Alps. If skies are clear you can see as many as six different<br />

countries! If you are fit enough you can also walk up here<br />

from the valley - generally there are many hiking options for<br />

all levels of fitness. There are two playgrounds for kids (at<br />

Chäserrugg and at Iltios) which makes this a good destination<br />

for families. Q Runs daily until October 21, 08:30 - 17:00.<br />

After that until November 1 only if the weather is good. Return<br />

cable car ticket to Chäserrugg 48/24Sfr.<br />

Mount Säntis overlooking his lower colleagues. PD<br />

Schilthorn - Piz Gloria Schilthornbahn AG, Mürren,<br />

tel. +41 33 856 21 41, www.schilthorn.ch. On the<br />

Schilthorn, at almost 3000 metres a.s.l. you get an<br />

exhilarating view of the highest and most famous trinity<br />

of the Bernese alps, Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau (weather<br />

permitting!). The top station features the revolving Piz Gloria<br />

restaurant which turns full circle in about 55 minutes. The<br />

station was the setting for the 1968 James Bond film On<br />

Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Getting up there is quite an<br />

exciting adventure: from Stechelberg four sections of cable<br />

cars take you up to the peak in just over 30 minutes. It is<br />

possible to hike all the way up, but only for really experienced<br />

hikers. But the region around Mürren offers many enjoyable<br />

hiking and walking opportunities for less accomplished hikers<br />

too. From Zurich, take a train to <strong>In</strong>terlaken (change in Bern), at<br />

<strong>In</strong>terlaken change to the one to Lauterbrunnen. From there a<br />

bus takes you to Stechelberg valley station (approx. 3 hours<br />

all in all). Maybe combine the trip with a stay in Mürren or<br />

the <strong>In</strong>terlaken region! Q Cable car runs daily until November<br />

11, first ascent 07:25, last descent 18:03. Return fare from<br />

Stechelberg 94.80/47.40Sfr.<br />

Stanserhorn Stansstaderstrasse 19, 6370 Stans,<br />

tel. +41 41 618 80 40, www.stanserhorn.ch. The<br />

Stanserhorn is an easy accessible mountain with<br />

spectacular views of central Switzerland’s mountains and<br />

lakes. You can ride up with a funicular, and the second<br />

section with the world’s first cablecar with an open upper<br />

deck, just opened this June. The cabin has a rooftoop with<br />

room for up to 30 people to stand and enjoy the ride under<br />

the open sky. At the summit there’s a revolving retaurant<br />

and a panorama trail. The region also offers plenty of<br />

hiking options - for example you can walk to the top from<br />

Stans in about four hours. Getting to Stans from Zurich<br />

by train takes around 75 minutes. Change train in Luzern<br />

(destination Engelberg or Dallenwil). Q Runs daily until<br />

November 18, 08:15 - 16:45, Fri & Sat until 22:15. Return<br />

ticket 68/34/17Sfr.<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

DAY TRIPS IN AUTUMN<br />

Lookouts & Walks<br />

Felsenegg lookout Zelgstrasse 80, Adliswil, tel. +41<br />

44 710 73 30, www.laf.ch. This short trip takes you up to<br />

one of the nicest lookout points in the Zurich area: Felsenegg.<br />

Getting up there is fairly easy, with the only aerial cable car<br />

operating in the canton of Zurich. First, take the S4 train in<br />

direction Langnau-Gattikon and get off after 15 minutes<br />

in Adliswil. From there it’s a well sign-posted 10-minute<br />

walk to the valley station of the aerial cable car, where the<br />

cabin leaves every 15 minutes for Felsenegg. Once you are<br />

up there, refresh yourself in the restaurant and of course<br />

take in the view of the city, the lake and the Alps. There are<br />

also many possibilities for a walk: for example follow the<br />

panorama trail to Uetliberg, from where the S10 train will<br />

get you back to Zurich city - nice roundtrip on an autumn<br />

day. Q From Zurich a ticket for zones 10, 50, 55 is needed.<br />

Tickets valid for two hours: 8.20/4.10Sfr. Just for the cable<br />

car: 4.10/2.90Sfr. For the round trip the Albis daypass is your<br />

best option: 16.40/8.20Sfr. Trip to Felsenegg and Uetliberg<br />

is included with the Zurich Card.<br />

Pfannenstiel Lookout Pfannenstiel, Meilen,<br />

www.pfannenstiel.ch. Pfannenstiel is the name of the hill<br />

range on the north-eastern shore of Lake Zurich. It’s a nice<br />

recreation area for walks and offers views over Lake Zurich<br />

and towards the Alps. On the Hochwacht there is a lookout<br />

tower you can climb up for even better views. There are many<br />

marked paths and possibilities for long and short hikes. As it<br />

only takes 30 minutes to get there, it’s perfect for a couple<br />

of hours in the outdoors. There are also two restaurants if<br />

hunger should happen to strike. Q To get there, take the S7<br />

train in direction Rapperswil (x.42). At Meilen change to Bus<br />

922 in direction Vorderer Pfannenstiel. Duration: 32 minutes.<br />

October - November 2012<br />

49


50 <strong>ZURICH</strong> FOR KIDS<br />

Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how<br />

to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals<br />

may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty to<br />

do with children in Zurich. Some venues are described in<br />

more detail in other chapters, follow the references.<br />

Museums & Zoos<br />

If you’re looking for places to learn and discover stuff, try<br />

these suggestions.<br />

Zurich Zoo, the classic destination: the Masoala<br />

Rainforest is warm even on a chilly day, see p. 44.<br />

Zoological and Paleontological Museums of the<br />

University of Zurich G-3, Karl Schmid-Strasse 4,<br />

8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. +41 44 634 38 38,<br />

www.zm.uzh.ch. A giant sloth waits just beyond the<br />

entrance here, but luckily it’s only a reconstruction,<br />

so you can even stroke it. Animals large and small are<br />

displayed stuffed or as skeletons: jaguars, kangaroos,<br />

platypuses, giant crabs. You’ll be amazed what exists<br />

in the animal kingdom. Unfortunately all texts are in<br />

German, but we have found that isn’t a problem for<br />

children. A fascinating cabinet of wonders.QOpen<br />

09:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 17:00, Mon closed.<br />

Admission free.<br />

Parks & Sports<br />

The most central playground is next to Lindenhof (p. 42,<br />

E-3) and there is a large one next to the Chinese garden<br />

(G-7). The Gemeinschaftszentren (or GZ), community<br />

centres of the city also have good playgrounds.<br />

WELCOME TO THE MOST<br />

FAMOUS PARADISE OF TOYS<br />

FOR CHILDREN, SINCE 1881.<br />

Bahnhofstrasse Spielsachen, 62, die 8001 Träume Zürich, versüssen. www.fcw.ch<br />

Having fun while learning for life: Kindercity. PD<br />

Gemeinschaftszentren (community centres), tel.<br />

+41 43 300 60 00, www.gz-zh.ch. The 17 community<br />

centres, called Gemeinschaftszentren, are co-funded by<br />

the city. They usually have a playground for kids and a little<br />

café-bar, many offer organised activities and some even have<br />

some farm animals to watch and stroke. E.g. GZ Wipkingen<br />

(at the river), Breitensteinstrasse 19 a, tel. +41 44 276 82 80.<br />

See www.gz-zh.ch for all locations. They are usually open<br />

10:00 - 18:00 and 14:00 - 17:00 on the weekend.<br />

Kindercity Chlirietstrasse 12, Volketswil, tel. +41 43<br />

204 30 60, www.kindercity.ch. Kindercity is a science<br />

city for children aged 1 to 12, much more hands-on than<br />

a museum - and when did you last do bungee-jumping in a<br />

museum? Different so-called knowledge lanes are dedicated<br />

to topics like the human body, renewable energy or modern<br />

communication, using sight, sound, smell and action to<br />

let children discover, accompanied by an adult. There is a<br />

café, open-air play areas, magic trains - and much more.<br />

From Zurich, take trains S9 or S14 (direction Hinwil/Uster),<br />

change at Schwerzenbach to bus N° 725, get off at Volkiland,<br />

Chliriet (duration: 22 minutes). Q Open daily 10:00 - 18:00.<br />

Daypass (cinema and knowlegde lanes) 27.50Sfr. activities<br />

can also be booked separately e.g. knowledge lane 14.50Sfr<br />

(17.50 adults).<br />

Restaurants<br />

Pizza Pasta Ciao! I-5, Asylstrase 125, 8Klusplatz,<br />

tel. +41 43 499 07 12, www.pizzapastaciao.ch. This<br />

restaurant has a playroom for kids with a baby sitter. So<br />

you can enjoy their classic Italian food all the way to the<br />

espresso and be sure your kids are having fun too. The menu<br />

features everything that comes to your mind when you think<br />

Italy: from home-made pasta to pizza to meat like filetto di<br />

manzo (beef filet). Needless to say the place is popular with<br />

families - and not just Italian ones. Q Open 10:30 - 14:00,<br />

18:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 18:00 - 24:00.<br />

Toy shops<br />

Franz Carl Weber E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 62,<br />

8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch.<br />

Never-ending toy shop on four floors with virtually anything<br />

you might be looking for, includes books and a pizzeria.<br />

Q Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />

09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Pastorini E-4, Weinplatz 3, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 44<br />

824 33 44, www.pastorini.ch. Great toy shop with<br />

high quality, sensible toys. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Mon<br />

13:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Zurich has the reputation of a shopping city, even<br />

if not quite that of London or Milano. Especially<br />

Bahnhofstrasse is well known around the globe as<br />

one of the most exclusive and expensive shopping<br />

streets in the world. For Swiss and urban design, the<br />

area around Langstrasse is a good spot - check out our<br />

special. <strong>In</strong> the way of shopping malls, Switzerland can’t<br />

match other European countries where huge centres<br />

are the order of the day. But maybe that’s a good thing.<br />

The Sihlcity Shopping Centre, an easily reachable<br />

mall opened in 2007, is an example of an innovative<br />

development - without being a giant. The malls and<br />

best shopping areas of the city are listed here together<br />

with other remarkable shops. Remember all shops are<br />

closed on Sundays except at the railway stations.<br />

Looking out for the next bargain on Bahnhofstrasse. AM<br />

The main shopping areas are:<br />

Bahnhofstrasse (E-2/5)The Bahnhofstrasse leads from the<br />

main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian<br />

area almost without traffic - but watch out for the trams! It’s<br />

world-famous for its luxury stores: find jewellery, watches<br />

and designer boutiques as well as the big department<br />

stores Jelmoli, Globus and Manor here. <strong>In</strong> recent years<br />

not to everyone’s pleasure more and more big foreign<br />

companies like Apple have opened stores on Bahnhofstrasse<br />

displacing some traditional Zurich companies - some say<br />

Bahnhofstrasse is losing its atmosphere. Nevertheless a<br />

walk down this famous street is a must for every shopping<br />

fan. Wander into the side streets as well, where shops are no<br />

less luxurious and some more unusual little gems are hidden.<br />

Niederdorf (F-3/4) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old<br />

town east of the River Limmat - is better known for dining<br />

and nightlife than for shopping, it’s well worth expanding<br />

Opening hours<br />

Most shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are open<br />

Mon to Fri 09:00 - 20:00. Smaller shops including<br />

jewellers and shops outside the centre often close<br />

at 18:30, some are closed on Monday mornings. On<br />

Saturdays most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00 (or<br />

18:00, departement stores until 20:00). On Sundays all<br />

shops are closed (except in train and petrol stations).<br />

Banking hours are Mon - Fri 08:30 - 16:30.<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

SHOPPING<br />

your shopping tour into this quarter. Along the Limmatquai<br />

and Niederdorf streets - both pedestrian areas - you will<br />

find smaller shops with up-to-date street wear, fancy<br />

shoes and fashion stores. The smaller alleys are also well<br />

worth a peek.<br />

Old Town (E-3/4) The old town between Bahnhofstrasse<br />

and the River Limmat is another shopping area not to<br />

miss. Try the pedestrian street Rennweg for example<br />

with its international clothing brands and boutiques<br />

or Storchengasse with its luxury designer stores,<br />

a genuine Zurich toys shop as well as cutlery and<br />

souvenir shops.<br />

Books & Music<br />

NEW<br />

16tons B-2, Anwandstrasse 25, 8Bäckeranlage, tel.<br />

+41 44 242 02 03, www.16tons.ch. With tons of new<br />

and second-hand vinyl records, mainly of the genres reggae,<br />

soul, rockabillly and dancehall, 16tons is one of the city’s<br />

first addresses for vinyl lovers. It ‘s also well worth a visit if<br />

you’re hunting for some cool second-hand clothes or small<br />

pieces of vintage furniture. Q Open 12:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00<br />

- 17:00, Sun closed.<br />

Orell Füssli - The Bookshop E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 70,<br />

8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211 04 44, www.books.ch.<br />

Zurich‘s biggest English-language bookshop: over 40,000<br />

fictional and non-fictional books, magazines, audio books<br />

and DVDs on three floors - and all in English. There is a<br />

strong children‘s section where Dave, the storyteller, reads<br />

every first Saturday of the month. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />

09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />

English<br />

books<br />

and more<br />

pay us a visit<br />

to fi nd out<br />

Orell Füssli The Bookshop<br />

Bahnhofstrasse 70<br />

8001 Zürich<br />

October - November 2012<br />

51


52 SHOPPING<br />

Departement stores<br />

Globus E-2/3, Schweizergasse 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse<br />

/ Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 226 60 60, www.globus.ch.<br />

The Globus is a classic and stylish department store on<br />

Bahnhofstrasse: on six levels you can find everything for<br />

your beauty, the latest fashion from brands like Esprit,<br />

Marco Polo, Strellson and Dockers, shoes, watches,<br />

jewellery, travel bags, lingerie and much more. After strolling<br />

through the stories take a break in the pleasant restaurant<br />

on the top floor or have a drink in the bar just next to the<br />

entrance towards Bahnhofstrasse. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Jelmoli E-3, Seidengasse 1, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44<br />

220 44 11, www.jelmoli.ch. They call themselves the<br />

house of brands - and that’s what they are indeed: Hugo Boss,<br />

DKNY, Joop, Diesel, Tommy Hilfiger, Versace are just some<br />

of the fashion brands you can find at the Jelmoli department<br />

store. But there’s more than fashion: perfumes, household<br />

goods, a huge sports and an electronics department. And not<br />

to forget the Gourmet Factory in the basement - a big grocery<br />

store for gastronomes with fine food from Switzerland and<br />

around the world. Plus, Zurich’s biggest store of the Spanish<br />

label Zara is situated in the Jelmoli building. QOpen 09:00<br />

- 20:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Shopping around Langstrasse<br />

Shopping in Zurich is not just Bahnhofstrasse and the<br />

old town. There are other districts which are well worth<br />

a visit for shoppers - especially if you are hunting for<br />

some cool clothes and accessories and would like a<br />

break from the big global brands. The area around the<br />

southern end of Langstrasse in district n°4 (aka Chreis<br />

Cheib) definitely is such an area. Every few steps you<br />

come across another enticing little shop on Langstrasse<br />

or in the side streets. Generally it’s less glittery and<br />

glamourous here than on Bahnhofstrasse, but much<br />

more urban and cosmopolitan with many young, Swiss<br />

labels. We list some of our favourites below.<br />

Andrea Hinnen C-3, Rotwandstrasse 53,<br />

8Stauffacher, tel. +41 44 240 02 12, www.<br />

aquaboot.com. Andrea Hinnen’s textile design shop<br />

features her collection of bright and witty print designs,<br />

atypically colourful for Zurich. Balloons, pin-up girls and<br />

crocodiles seem to be some of her more favoured motifs<br />

for the textiles.QOpen 11:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 - 16:00,<br />

closed Sun & Mon.<br />

be code C-3, Bäckerstrasse 9, 8Stauffacher, tel.<br />

+41 43 243 93 27, www.becode.ch. be code is<br />

situated just next to Stauffacher and offers a big choice<br />

of young and modern fashion made of exquisite materials<br />

in big sizes (34 - 54).QOpen 11:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:30<br />

- 17:00, Sun closed.<br />

Saus und Braus - shop for design B-3,<br />

Ankerstrasse 14, 8Bezirksgebäude, tel. +41 44<br />

242 23 11, www.sausbraus.ch. Saus und Braus (in<br />

the lap of luxury) is like a little department store for<br />

more than 70 mostly Swiss design labels including shop<br />

owner Baba Rüegg’s very own Saus & Braus dresses.<br />

You can find fashion, bags, accessories, jewellery, lamps<br />

and some interior design.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />

10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun & Mon.<br />

Fashion<br />

Bernie’s E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 65, 8Rennweg, tel.<br />

+41 44 211 91 91, www.bernies.ch. Bernie’s sells mostly<br />

stylish clothing with Italian elegance for men and women - be<br />

it by luxury brands like Moschino or a bit more casual stuff.<br />

They have definitely a cool selection, but not on the cheap<br />

side. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00, Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00<br />

- 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />

NEW<br />

Jap F-4, Weite Gasse 7, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 261<br />

66 26. Owner Margrit Brunswick sets the focus of her store<br />

on rather vanguard designer clothing and accessories for<br />

women. She specialises in Japanese designers - but not only.<br />

Even as a fashion aficionado you will most probably find some<br />

nice pieces by labels you haven’t heard of before. Q Open<br />

12:00 - 18:30, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Sun closed.<br />

What are you looking for, sir? Bernie’s on Bahnhofstrasse.<br />

PD<br />

The North Face Store D-3, Sihlstrasse<br />

95, 8 Sihlstrasse, tel. +41 44 210 07 17,<br />

www.thenorthface.com. The new Zurich flagship store<br />

of the American outdoor company The North Face naturally<br />

features everything the brand has become famous for:<br />

outerwear, fleeces, shirts and footwear as well as equipment<br />

such as backpacks, tents and sleeping bags. It all definitely<br />

suits hikers and mountaineers but is also very chic for your<br />

hike through the urban jungle. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat<br />

10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.<br />

Trois Pommes E-4, Storchengasse 6, 8Paradeplatz,<br />

tel. +41 44 211 06 21, www.troispommes.ch. The<br />

boutique Trois Pommes offers a selection of fashion pieces<br />

from a dozen or so exquisite brands like Bluemarin, Marni,<br />

Lanvin, Thomas Maier and Adam Jones. The Trois Pommes<br />

empire encompasses more shops on the same street: the<br />

Trois Pommes Designer store (Balenciaga, Marc Jacobs,<br />

Giambattista Valli), a Gucci store and a shoe gallery.QOpen<br />

09:30 - 18:45, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Malls & Shopping centres<br />

Einkaufszentrum Glatt Neue Winterthurerstrasse 99,<br />

Wallisellen, 8Glatt, tel. +41 44 839 42 42, www.glatt.<br />

ch. This is Switzerland’s biggest shopping mall: find almost<br />

100 shops on 43’000m². Besides two departement stores, all<br />

kinds of fashion, nine restaurants and everything for your kids,<br />

there are also branches of Zurich’s famous watch stores and<br />

jewellers. It’s located just outside the city limits, but it’s easy to<br />

get there: take the S3, S9 or S12 train to Stettbach and from<br />

there tram 12 to the stop Glatt, and you will be in this shopping<br />

heaven in just 20 minutes. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun closed.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

NEW<br />

Europaallee D-2, Main railway station, 8Hauptbahnhof,<br />

www.europaallee.ch. Europaallee is part of a whole new<br />

neighbourhood just next to the main railway station, and it’s<br />

chock-a-block with shops. Apart from a Coop department<br />

store, the emphasis is on clothes and outdoor activites:<br />

skateboard and streetwear specialist Doodah, Swiss outdoor<br />

clothing label Tom Bergstein, Lola Fred yoga wear and the cycle<br />

shop HappyBike are all there. The bigger stores are Ochsner’s<br />

Lady-Shop and a huge Transa store. Transa has a long track<br />

record as a hiking and travel specialist in Switzerland, selling<br />

everything from raingear to rucksacks.<br />

Im Viadukt K-7/L-6, Limmatstrasse 259, 8Dammweg,<br />

www.im-viadukt.ch. More than 30 shops and a market hall for<br />

groceries nestled under the arches of a railway viaduct built in<br />

the 19th century. Not a classic shopping mall but a street with<br />

one shop after another. The emphasis is on small and trendy<br />

fashion labels rather than the big luxury brands. Q Closed Sun.<br />

Shoes & Accessories<br />

Bally E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 66, 8Rennweg, www.bally<br />

.com. Bally, the traditional Swiss shoe brand of world renown,<br />

offers their collection on three stories in their own Bally house,<br />

just where Rennweg leaves Bahnhofstrasse. Find elegant<br />

leather shoes and more casual sneakers for both sexes and<br />

pumps and mocassins for fashionable women. QOpen 09:30<br />

- 19:00, Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />

NEW<br />

Lutomirsky Schuhe E-2, Löwenstrasse 54,<br />

8Löwenplatz, tel. +41 44 221 35 04, www.lutomirsky<br />

-schuhe.ch. Finally a shoe shop with chandeliers! No, really,<br />

this place is very elegant and they sell classical, solid shoes<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Guess<br />

SHOPPING<br />

G uess Zurich<br />

F-3, Marktgasse<br />

12, 8Rathaus, tel.<br />

+41 43 343 95 71,<br />

www .guess .com. Guess<br />

finally opened a flagship<br />

store in Zurich last year -<br />

and yes, it is the biggest<br />

in the country. <strong>In</strong> the middle of the Niederdorf they<br />

display the Guess and Guess by Marciano collections<br />

on more than 500sqm and over two stories, for both<br />

men and women: jeans, garments, shoes, accessories<br />

like sunglasses, watches, jewellery, lingerie and perfume<br />

- the full range of Guess goods is on show and on sale.<br />

Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu & Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat<br />

10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />

which aren’t too fancy, be it loafers and laced shoes for men<br />

or pumps, boots and ballerinas for women. The staff know<br />

their stuff and can advise you well. They also have extra<br />

sizes for both sexes.<br />

Souvenirs<br />

Meng Cutlery E-3, Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg, tel. +41<br />

44 211 18 48, www.mengcutlery.ch. Meng Cutlery just<br />

off Bahnhofstrasse offers classic Swiss souvenirs such as<br />

army knives by the famous brands Victorinox and Wenger.<br />

Also on stock: other knives, scissors, watches and more<br />

ideas for gifts to take home. Sister shop at Poststrasse 4<br />

(E-4). QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Athelete: Xavier De le Rue, Giulia Monego, Location: Switzerland, Photo: Tero Repo<br />

THE NEW WINTER COLLECTION<br />

THE NORTH FACE® STORE <strong>ZURICH</strong> - SIHLSTRASSE 95<br />

10 CHF voucher (Not cumulative with other offers, valid until 11/30/2012, 20 CHF min. amount)<br />

October - November 2012<br />

53


54 SHOPPING<br />

Swiss chocolate<br />

Swiss chocolate is of world renown - and yes, you should<br />

take advantage of being here and try some of these sweet<br />

sins. But have you ever wondered why it is the Swiss who<br />

make such delicious chocolate?<br />

Cocoa, the main ingredient of chocolate comes from South<br />

America and was brought to Europe in the early 16th century. But<br />

it wasn’t until the end of the 18th century that Swiss craftsmen<br />

started to process cocoa and to establish small businesses<br />

producing chocolate. <strong>In</strong> the 19th century some of today’s best<br />

known Swiss chocolate producers (like Suchard, Sprüngli, Lindt,<br />

Callier and Tobler) were established. But it took two leaps of<br />

technology in the 1870s for Swiss chocolate to become a real<br />

success. First Daniel Peter invented milk chocolate. Condensed<br />

milk was the key to success. Then, in 1879, Rodolphe Lindt<br />

invented the mysterious conche. This scraper-mixer makes<br />

solid chocolate smooth and creamy rather than hard and gritty,<br />

as it had been until then. The Lindt conche was a milestone<br />

and has been copied ever since.<br />

<strong>In</strong> the following decades, the Swiss became very keen on<br />

this creamy chocolate and soon also started exporting<br />

their produce. Today around 175,000 tons of chocolate are<br />

produced in Switzerland per year. And yes, the Swiss are the<br />

world’s greatest chocolate eaters: statistically the Swiss<br />

eat around 12 kilograms a year each. As a comparison a<br />

US-American consumes 5.4kg a year.<br />

<strong>In</strong> Zurich, the most famous chocolate producer and confectioner<br />

is probably Sprüngli, the original shop with café situated on<br />

Paradeplatz (Bahnhofstrasse 21, see p. 33). Another well-known<br />

Zurich chocolate maker is Lindt & Sprüngli. They were originally<br />

connected to Sprüngli, but split the business at the end of the<br />

19th century. Its factory is just outside Zurich and you can buy<br />

Lindt chocolate in literally every grocery store.<br />

Here are a few suggestions besides Sprüngli on where to<br />

find chocolate paradise in Zurich:<br />

Confiserie Läderach<br />

Honold La Confiserie E-3, Rennweg 53, 8Rennweg,<br />

tel. +41 44 211 52 58, www.honold.ch. Since 1905<br />

Honold Confiserie has been producing chocolate, cakes and<br />

pastries just next to Bahnhofstrasse. Their chocolate cake<br />

and the birchermüesli (oat flakes with fruits and yoghurt)<br />

are also well-known. The shop is also a coffee bar with a<br />

balcony on the first floor, so you can enjoy Honold’s sweets<br />

while watching busy shopping on Rennweg. QOpen 07:30<br />

- 18:30, Sat 07:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Läderach Chocolatier Suisse (at Merkur<br />

Chocolaterie) E-2, Bahnhofstrasse 106,<br />

8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. +41 44 211 53 72,<br />

www.laederach.ch. The traditional Swiss chocolatier<br />

Läderach sells freshly produced chocolate, filled chocolates<br />

and pralines. You even get an insight into the craft of<br />

confectionery here, as some of the chocolate is actually<br />

produced on site - creating irresistible aromas! There are<br />

30 different kinds on display, in slabs which are broken into<br />

pieces and sold by weight. Chocolates are on offer by piece.<br />

<strong>In</strong> addition to the Läderach chocolate you can also get all the<br />

Swiss chocolate brands from Lindt to Toblerone. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Teuscher Confiserie E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 46,<br />

8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211 13 90, www.teuscher.com.<br />

More than a hundred different flavours of Swiss chocolate,<br />

marzipan, biscuits and the famous champagne truffles<br />

made according to Adolf Teuscher’s traditional recipe. Q<br />

Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -<br />

18:00, Sun 13:00 - 16:00.<br />

Truffe E-4, Schlüsselgasse 12, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41<br />

43 539 18 85, www.truffe-zurich.ch. <strong>In</strong> the middle of the<br />

old town, but a little hidden in a side alley, this chocolate<br />

shop is dedicated to small Swiss and yes, Italian chocolate<br />

confectioneries. Some are quite traditional, some come<br />

with rather unusual flavours. You can usually try some of<br />

these sweet sins before you buy. Q Open 11:00 - 18:30,<br />

Sat 11:00 - 17:00, closed Sun & Mon.<br />

Vollenweider Chocolatier Confiseur G-5,<br />

Theaterstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41 43 288<br />

04 04, www.vollenweiderchocolatier.ch. This<br />

confectioner’s home town is Winterthur, but his first Zurich<br />

shop is an enrichment for the lovers of sweets in town.<br />

Macaroons, truffes, small chocolate candies - they have it<br />

all. And much more. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 -<br />

17:00. Sun closed.<br />

at Läderach Chocolaterie, Bahnhofstrasse 106, Zurich<br />

and at Chocolaterie ShopVille RailCity Zurich; Shopping Center Glatt, Wallisellen<br />

Finest Swiss<br />

chocolate<br />

at its best<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Schweizer Heimatwerk E-3, Uraniastrasse 1,<br />

8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 44 222 19 55,<br />

www.heimatwerk.ch. Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high<br />

quality: fashion accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue<br />

sets all with a Swiss twist to the design. QOpen 09:00 -<br />

20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Teddy’s Souvenir-Shop F-4, Limmatquai<br />

34, 8 Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 261 22 89,<br />

www.teddyssouvenirshop.ch. Clocks, cowbells, hats,<br />

music boxes, pets and textiles: it’s all waiting for you at<br />

Teddy’s souvenir shop close to Grossmünster - open even<br />

on Sundays. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 16:00,<br />

Sun 11:00 - 17:00.<br />

Swiss design<br />

Mammut E-2, Löwenstrasse 60, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel.<br />

+41 43 233 00 66, www.mammut.ch. The Swiss producer<br />

of trekking and mountaineering equipment Mammut has<br />

a huge flagship store in Zurich. On several stories you can<br />

browse through shoes, backpacks, sleeping bags, climbing<br />

gear and fashionable clothing for outdoors sports and outdoor<br />

use in general. QOpen 09:30 - 19:00, Mon 12:00 - 19:00,<br />

Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00.<br />

Paradis des <strong>In</strong>nocents E-3, Oetenbachgasse<br />

7, 8 Rennweg, tel. +41 44 262 20 50,<br />

www.paradisdesinnocents.ch. The three Swiss<br />

designers Stefania Samadelli, Simone Klemm and Ursula<br />

Schwaller present their latest collections in their little<br />

paradise: elegant fashion for women, be it for leisure or<br />

business. Q Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00,<br />

closed Sun & Mon.<br />

STYLE<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

SHOPPING<br />

Oh, sausages! Yes, and of the best at Pretôt Delikatessen.<br />

PD<br />

Swiss food<br />

Pretôt Delikatessen E-3, Kuttelgasse 3, 8Rennweg,<br />

tel. +41 44 221 05 33, www.lafinebouche.ch. It‘s all<br />

about sausages here: smoked, dried, for boiling - coming<br />

from all the different corners of Switzerland, straight to the<br />

heart of Zurich. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Mon 10:00 - 18:30.<br />

Closed Sun.<br />

Tritt-Käse L-6, Limmatstrasse 231 (Im Viadukt),<br />

8Dammweg, tel. +41 43 366 87 88, www.tritt.ch.<br />

Dozens of different cheeses from all corners of Switzerland.<br />

Don’t be shy, ask for a taster! The sales staff is usually happy<br />

to cut some for you or to recommend their favourites. Q Open<br />

10:00 - 20:00, Fri & Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun closed.<br />

PURE STYLE<br />

Welcome to Switzerland’s fi rst<br />

destination for watches and<br />

jewelry with a selection of more<br />

than 50 exclusive brands.<br />

www.christ-swiss.ch<br />

October - November 2012<br />

55


56 WATCHES<br />

Affolter Max, Limmatquai 82<br />

Airbijoux, Bahnhofstrasse 1<br />

Beyer, Bahnhofstrasse 31<br />

Bourquin, Langstrasse 234<br />

Bucherer, Bahnhofstrasse 50<br />

Breguet, Bahnhofstrasse 31<br />

Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 25<br />

Cartier Joailliers, Bahnhofstrasse 47<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Chopard Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 40<br />

Christ, Bahnhofstrasse 78<br />

Christ at Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1<br />

Christian Goldschmiede, Limmatplatz 1<br />

Cimier Boutique, Limmatquai 56<br />

Dolmetsch, Limmatquai 126<br />

Feist Daniel, Seefeldstrassse 45<br />

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28<br />

A. Lange & Söhne<br />

Audemars Piguet<br />

Balmain<br />

Baume & Mercier<br />

Bell & Ross<br />

Beyer<br />

Blancpain<br />

Breguet<br />

Breitling<br />

Bulgari<br />

Cartier<br />

Certina<br />

Charriol<br />

Chopard<br />

Cimier<br />

De Grisogono<br />

Ebel<br />

Eterna<br />

Franck Muller<br />

Girard Perregaux<br />

Hublot<br />

IWC Schaffhausen<br />

Jaquet Droz<br />

Jaeger-LeCoultre<br />

Longines<br />

Louis Erard<br />

Maurice Lacroix<br />

Mondaine<br />

Movado<br />

Omega<br />

Oris<br />

Parmigiani Fleurier<br />

Patek Philippe<br />

Piaget<br />

Quinting<br />

Rado<br />

Raymond Weil<br />

Rolex<br />

Swatch<br />

Swiss Military<br />

TAG Heuer<br />

Tiffany<br />

Tissot<br />

Ulysse Nardin<br />

Urwerk<br />

Victorinox Swiss Army<br />

Vulcain<br />

Wenger<br />

Zenith<br />

Zurich Partime<br />

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Galli, Theaterstrasse 16<br />

Gübelin, Bahnhofstrasse 36<br />

IWC Schaffhausen, Bahnhofstrasse 61<br />

Kurz, Bahnhofstrasse 80<br />

La Serlas, Bahnhofstrasse 25<br />

Les Ambassadeurs, Bahnhofstrasse 64<br />

Meister Uhren, Bahnhofstrasse 33<br />

Meng Cutlery, Poststrasse 4<br />

Meng Cutlery, Rennweg 31<br />

Omega Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 52<br />

Oscar Stahel, Gerbergasse 5<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Patek Philippe Boutique, Bahnhofstr. 31<br />

Swatch Store, Bahnhofstrasse 94<br />

Tiffany & Co, Bahnhofstrasse 14<br />

Türler A., Paradeplatz<br />

Zett-Meyer, Bahnhofstrasse 37<br />

Zinniker, Buchholzstrasse 3, Zollikon<br />

TACTILE TECHNOLOGY<br />

IN TOUCH WITH YOUR TIME<br />

1125 CHF Suggested retail price<br />

WATCHES<br />

October - November 2012<br />

57


58 SHOPPING<br />

Art market Watches & Jewellery<br />

Consulates<br />

If you’re looking to buy art - or just take a peek at what<br />

others are buying - Zurich won’t let you down. The city<br />

is arguably the centre of Switzerland’s art market, and<br />

indeed a reference point for the European art market.<br />

Many art auctioneers are located in Zurich - besides the<br />

well-known international houses Sotheby’s (Talstrasse<br />

83, D-3) and Christie’s (Steinwieseplatz, G-4) you’ll find<br />

local houses like Koller (Hardturmstrasse 102), Grisebach<br />

(Bahnhofstrasse 14, E-4) or Germann (Stockerstrasse 38,<br />

D-4), where remarkable pieces change hands regularly.<br />

Art galleries are equally abundant in Zurich and are an<br />

excellent place to see contemporary international and<br />

Swiss art as well as a great deal of exciting work from the<br />

twentieth century. Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> has put together<br />

a small selection, including conventional art galleries,<br />

artist-run offspaces and internet galleries.<br />

Art galleries<br />

galerie gmurzynska E-4, Paradeplatz<br />

2, 8 Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 226 70 70,<br />

www.gmurzynska.com. A major gallery specialising in<br />

Russian avantgarde, modern and classic contemporary<br />

art. Recently it showed pop art classics with pieces<br />

by artists such as Andy Warhol and Robert <strong>In</strong>diana.<br />

<strong>In</strong> summer the gallery regularly organises a sculpture<br />

exhibition in the park of the Baur au Lac hotel. Q Open<br />

10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.<br />

Galerie Haas D-4, Talstrasse 62a, 8Paradeplatz,<br />

tel. + 41 43 497 20 26, www.galeriehaasag.ch.<br />

German expressionism such as Georg Grosz, classic<br />

modern artists such as Braque as well as Swiss masters<br />

such as Cuno Amiet or Félix Vallotton are all part of this<br />

gallery’s field. Q Open 10:00 - 12:30, 14:00 - 18:00 and<br />

by appointment, Sat & Sun closed.<br />

Karma <strong>In</strong>ternational G-6, Dufourstrasse<br />

48, 8Kreuzstrasse, tel. +41 43 535 85 91,<br />

www.karmainternational.org. Focusing on<br />

contemporary and conceptual art, Karma shows Swiss<br />

and international artists, and has a reputation for picking<br />

up on the newest developments in the city’s art scene.<br />

Q Open Wed - Fri 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.<br />

Offspaces<br />

Dienstgebäude A-6, Töpferstrasse 26,<br />

8 Laubegg, www.dienstgebaeude.ch.<br />

Dienstgebäude usually concentrates on artists from<br />

Zurich and Switzerland. One of the exhibitions they made<br />

their name with is The Catch of the Year - 120 pieces by<br />

120 Zurich artists, a kind of selective synopsis of Zurich’s<br />

art scene. Q Open Thu - Sat 12:00 - 18:00.<br />

message salon (Perla Mode) C-2, Langstrasse<br />

84, 8 Helvetiaplatz, www.likeyou.com/<br />

messagesalon. The cosy message salon is located<br />

on Langstrasse, where most salons go about more<br />

sleazy business and shows a very independent selection<br />

of Swiss and international artists. Q Open often in the<br />

evening, see website for programme and opening hours.<br />

<strong>In</strong>ternet galleries<br />

Eastinside, tel. +41 78 683 29 41,<br />

www.eastinside.ch. Online gallery specialized in young<br />

Eastern European art.<br />

Beyer E-4, Bahnhofstrasse 31, 8Paradeplatz, tel.<br />

+41 43 344 63 63, www.beyer-ch.com. For more than<br />

250 years Beyer has been selling, producing and repairing<br />

watches. They sell top brands like Patek Philippe, Rolex,<br />

Hublot, IWC, Chopard, Baume&Mercier and their very own<br />

brand Beyer. There is also a fine jewellery section. QOpen<br />

09:15 - 18:30, Sat 09:15 - 16:00. Closed Sun.<br />

The luxury watch store Beyer. PD<br />

Gübelin E-4, Bahnhofstrasse 36, 8Paradeplatz, tel.<br />

+41 44 387 52 20, www.guebelin.ch. Since 1854 Gübelin<br />

have been selling jewellery, watches and precious stones. <strong>In</strong><br />

their Zurich branch you will find their own jewellery lines as<br />

well as many renowned watch brands.QOpen 09:00 - 18:30,<br />

Sat 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.<br />

NEW<br />

IWC Boutique E-3, Bahnhofstrasse 61, 8Rennweg,<br />

www.iwc.com. Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC<br />

Schaffhausen has just opened its new very own Zurich<br />

boutique. Find their iconic automatic watches and exclusive<br />

models only available in their flagship stores.QOpen 10:00<br />

- 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.<br />

Partime Technoparkstrasse 1, 8Technopark, tel. +41<br />

44 445 14 55, www.partime.ch. A Zurich Partime watch<br />

simultaneously shows the time of day and how much of the<br />

day is left. The blue area within a circle represents the amount<br />

of time still remaining in the day, while a white area gradually<br />

eats into the blue, until the circle is all white at the end of the<br />

day. Find it also at the retailers indicated on page 56.QOpen<br />

10:00 - 16:00, Sat & Sun closed.<br />

CHRIST Watches & Jewelry<br />

CHRIST Watches<br />

& Jewelry E-3,<br />

Bahnhofstrasse 78,<br />

8 Bahnhofstrasse,<br />

tel. +41 44 212 14 47,<br />

www.christ-swiss.ch. With<br />

more than 80 shops, CHRIST<br />

is the biggest jeweler in Switzerland. Find top watch brands<br />

like Rado, Tag Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant and their<br />

very own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as fashion jewels by<br />

Pandora, Esprit Armani etc. Pearls, diamonds and a huge<br />

collection of wedding rings - it’s all there. CHRIST offers<br />

serious consulting in a casual, but stylish atmosphere.<br />

Find sister shops at the department stores St. Annahof<br />

(Bahnhofstrasse 57, E-3), Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, E-3) and<br />

the shopping centre Sihlcity (Kalanderplatz 1, B-6) as well<br />

as at the airport shopping centre. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,<br />

Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Zurich <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

Here are the most important consulates you can find in<br />

Zurich. The embassies are usually located in Bern, which is<br />

the Swiss capital. See www .eda .admin.ch for addresses.<br />

Austria D-7, Seestrasse 161, 8Brunaustrasse, tel. +41 44<br />

283 27 00, fax +41 44 280 37 65, zuerich-gk@bmeia .gv .at.<br />

France H-5, Signaustrasse 1, 8Signaustrasse, tel. +41<br />

44 268 85 85, fax +41 44 268 85 00, consulat.france<br />

.zurich@swissonline .ch, www .consulatfrance-zurich .org.<br />

Germany J-5, Witikonerstrasse 15, 8Klusplatz,<br />

tel. +41 44 201 72 22, fax +41 44 201 72 29, info@<br />

deutscher-honorarkonsul-zh.ch.<br />

Ireland E-5, Claridenstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41<br />

44 289 25 15, fax +41 44 2892550.<br />

Italy D-4, Tödistrasse 67, 8Brandschenkenstrasse, tel.<br />

+41 44 286 61 11, fax +41 44 201 16 11, segreteria<br />

.zurigo@esteri .it, www .ambberna .esteri .it.<br />

Norway F-5, Utoquai 37, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41 44 254<br />

61 39, fax +41 44 254 61 71, www .amb-norwegen .ch.<br />

Russia F-4, Oberdorfstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 43<br />

268 80 00, fax +41 43 268 80 08, www .rusconsul .ch.<br />

United Kingdom N-6, Gämsenstrasse 3,<br />

8Röslistrasse, tel. +41 44 383 65 60, fax +41 44<br />

383 65 61, vice-consulate.zurich@britishembassy .ch,<br />

www .ukinswitzerland .fco .gov.uk.<br />

United States of America G-6, Dufourstrasse 101,<br />

8Feldeggstrasse, tel. +41 43 499 29 60, fax +41 43<br />

499 29 61, zurich-ca@state .gov, bern.usembassy.gov.<br />

<br />

Welcome to Zurich<br />

zurich.inyourpocket.com<br />

DIRECTORY<br />

Dentists<br />

Swiss Smile D-2, Hauptbahnhof / Shop Ville,<br />

8 Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 43 300 30 03,<br />

www .swiss-smile .com. Dentist centre in the Shop Ville,<br />

the underground shopping mall at the main train station.<br />

It’s open every day - you can just walk in and wait for<br />

your turn. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun<br />

10:00 - 18:00.<br />

Language schools<br />

Alemania Badenerstrasse 333, 8Albisriederplatz, tel.<br />

+41 44 300 33 44, www .alemania .ch. German courses<br />

only, from beginners to proficient speakers.<br />

Bénédict C-2, Militärstrasse 106, 8Sihlpost, tel. +41<br />

44 242 12 60, www .benedict .ch. German courses at any<br />

level, as well as French, Italian and Spanish.<br />

Lost & Found<br />

Lost & Found (VBZ) E-3, Werdmühlestrasse 10,<br />

8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. +41 44 412 25 50. All objects<br />

found on public transport and on the ground of the city<br />

of Zurich end up here. QOpen 07:30 - 18:30. Closed<br />

Sat & Sun.<br />

Pharmacies<br />

Bahnhof Apotheke E-2, Bahnhofplatz 15,<br />

8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 225 42 42. QOpen<br />

07:00 - 24:00.<br />

Bellevue Apotheke F-5, Theaterstrasse 14,<br />

8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 266 62 22. Q Open 24hrs.<br />

<br />

<br />

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<br />

<br />

<br />

October - November 2012<br />

59


11<br />

7<br />

Stierenried<br />

Hürstholz<br />

62<br />

39<br />

491<br />

39<br />

Lerchenhalde<br />

25<br />

Witikon<br />

Zentrum<br />

69<br />

46<br />

33<br />

38<br />

Voltastr.<br />

13<br />

Platte<br />

3<br />

15<br />

323<br />

46<br />

304<br />

308<br />

11<br />

3<br />

4<br />

S18<br />

31<br />

Botanischer<br />

Garten<br />

4<br />

78<br />

Bahnhofplatz|HB<br />

307<br />

Bhf. Altstetten<br />

Nord<br />

Löwenplatz<br />

307<br />

54<br />

Vulkanstr.<br />

4<br />

S3 S12<br />

916<br />

Bahnhof Altstetten<br />

912<br />

31<br />

8<br />

2<br />

8<br />

912<br />

916<br />

2<br />

Baslerstr.<br />

Bahnhof<br />

910<br />

95<br />

Selnau<br />

Stockerstr.<br />

Bahnhof<br />

Solidapark<br />

Wiedikon<br />

5<br />

Tunnelstr.<br />

2<br />

Brandschenkestr.Hürlimann-<br />

Bertastr.<br />

platzGoldbrunnen-<br />

Bhf. Enge|Bederstr.<br />

3 Hubertus<br />

platz<br />

Gutstr.<br />

Waffenplatzstr.<br />

Siemens<br />

Talwiesenstr.<br />

Sihlcity<br />

Langgrüt- Im Gut<br />

Nord<br />

str.<br />

Heuried<br />

Giesshübel<br />

Schaufel-<br />

Binz<br />

Sackzelg bergerstr.<br />

Sihlcity<br />

Schulhaus<br />

Saalsporthalle<br />

Altweg<br />

Räffelstr.<br />

Friesenberg<br />

Brunaupark<br />

Brunau<br />

Grubenstr. Binz<br />

Schweighof<br />

Center<br />

Laubegg<br />

Friesenbergstr.<br />

Besenrainstr.<br />

Triemli<br />

Butzenstr.<br />

Uetlihof<br />

FriesenberghaldeStrassen-<br />

Friedhof<br />

32<br />

verkehrsamt<br />

Uetliberg<br />

Verenastr.<br />

Zielweg<br />

Albisgütli<br />

Manegg<br />

S9 S15<br />

Seidelhof<br />

Bristenstr.<br />

445<br />

14<br />

Triemli<br />

Triemlispital<br />

73<br />

444<br />

Kappeli<br />

89<br />

Hegian-<br />

wandweg<br />

200<br />

11 10<br />

9<br />

220<br />

485<br />

Krematorium<br />

Sihlfeld<br />

235<br />

89<br />

Winzerstr. Süd<br />

Hohenklingensteig<br />

Friedhof<br />

Sihlfeld<br />

215| 245<br />

Höfliweg<br />

Im Hagacker<br />

Grünwald<br />

70<br />

350<br />

S10<br />

Chrüzächer<br />

323<br />

89<br />

Hardplatz<br />

67<br />

32 76<br />

5<br />

80<br />

76<br />

32<br />

Hungerbergstr.<br />

Zehntenhausplatz<br />

GüterbahnhofBäckeranlageHelvetiaplatz <br />

WieslergasseKappenbühlweg<br />

Meierhofplatz<br />

Winzerhalde<br />

Schwert<br />

Manesseplatz<br />

Stadt Zürich | Zurich City<br />

Pfingstweidstr.<br />

Bhf. Hardbrücke<br />

7<br />

Stauffacher<br />

66<br />

S2 S8 S21 S24<br />

33<br />

69<br />

Werd<br />

66<br />

32<br />

Sihlpost<br />

Fronwald<br />

Bahnhof<br />

Affoltern<br />

6<br />

S6<br />

40<br />

13<br />

165<br />

11<br />

40<br />

32<br />

6<br />

15<br />

Schweizer<br />

Rück<br />

Enge Hafen<br />

161<br />

Friedhof<br />

Schwandenholz<br />

Staudenbühl<br />

Himmeri<br />

Maillartstr.<br />

Mötteliweg<br />

64<br />

Radiostudio<br />

72<br />

14<br />

4<br />

5<br />

Bellevue<br />

Wollishofen Schiffstation<br />

75<br />

9<br />

Guggachstr.<br />

29<br />

80<br />

Bahnhof<br />

Oerlikon<br />

Milchbuck<br />

ZÜRICHSEE<br />

Seebacherplatz<br />

Bhf. Seebach<br />

NeunbrunnenBollingerweg<br />

Bhf.<br />

Oerlikon<br />

Nord<br />

75<br />

94<br />

11<br />

Hirschwiesenstr.<br />

14<br />

Sternen<br />

Oerlikon<br />

Regensbergbrücke<br />

Bad Allenmoos<br />

Seebach<br />

Salersteig Schörlistr.<br />

Berninaplatz<br />

Leutschenbach<br />

Bhf.<br />

Oerlikon<br />

Ost<br />

9<br />

Messe|Hallenstadion<br />

Dorflinde Herbstweg<br />

Tulpenstr.<br />

Friedackerstr.<br />

Lägernstr.<br />

33<br />

23<br />

Rotbuchstr.<br />

Nordstr.<br />

Kronenstr.<br />

Röslistr.Ottikerstr.<br />

Hadlaubstr.<br />

Goldauerstr.<br />

Seilbahn Rigiblick<br />

Im<br />

Klösterli<br />

Beckenhof Sonnegg-<br />

Vogelsangstr.<br />

Stampfenbachplatzstr.Winkelriedstr.<br />

Spyriplatz<br />

Bethanien<br />

Zoo<br />

Susenbergstr.<br />

Bahnhofquai|HB<br />

Central<br />

Haldenegg HaldenbachHinterbergstr.<br />

Zürichbergstr.<br />

46<br />

Toblerplatz<br />

7<br />

10<br />

31<br />

Polyterrasse<br />

24<br />

Polybahn<br />

Kirche<br />

ETH|<br />

Fluntern<br />

Universitätsspital<br />

Bircher-Benner<br />

751<br />

Waldhaus<br />

Dolder<br />

Bahnhofstr.|HB<br />

Neumarkt<br />

Hofstr.<br />

Titlisstr.<br />

Bergstation<br />

Sihlstr.<br />

Rennweg<br />

Limmatquai<br />

Rudolf-<br />

Brun-Brücke<br />

Kantonsschule<br />

Klosbach<br />

Kunsthaus<br />

Storchen<br />

Paradeplatz<br />

Börsenstr.<br />

Rathaus<br />

Helmhaus<br />

8<br />

Hottingerplatz<br />

Sprecher<br />

str.<br />

Bahnhof<br />

Englisch-<br />

Stadelhofen<br />

viertelstr.<br />

Hölderlinsteig<br />

Hölderlinstr.<br />

Klusplatz<br />

753<br />

9<br />

11<br />

15<br />

747<br />

Bahnhof<br />

Enge<br />

Museum<br />

Rietberg<br />

Brunaustr.<br />

Billoweg<br />

Post Wollishofen<br />

Morgental<br />

Kalchbühlweg<br />

Glaubtenstr.<br />

Bahnhof<br />

Wollishofen<br />

Rentenanstalt<br />

Sukkulentensammlung<br />

Landiwiese<br />

Rote Fabrik<br />

Seerose<br />

Bürkliplatz<br />

Felsenrainstr.<br />

10<br />

11<br />

21<br />

22<br />

70<br />

71<br />

84<br />

Hagenholz<br />

63<br />

54 10<br />

35<br />

30<br />

31<br />

72<br />

73<br />

40<br />

55<br />

32<br />

42<br />

50<br />

33 S8 S14<br />

41<br />

43<br />

34<br />

56 51<br />

80<br />

52<br />

82<br />

83<br />

94<br />

53 81<br />

ZOLLIKON<br />

Tarifzone 10<br />

Fare zone 10<br />

79<br />

16<br />

15 62<br />

61<br />

14<br />

13 24<br />

60<br />

18<br />

63<br />

17<br />

12<br />

23<br />

20<br />

64<br />

Rütihof<br />

Geeringstr.<br />

Heizenholz<br />

Riedhofstr.<br />

<strong>In</strong>dustrie Gaswerk<br />

54<br />

Giblenstr.<br />

Blumenfeldstr.<br />

10 Juchhof<br />

Frankental<br />

Segantinistr. Nord<br />

Werd-<br />

62<br />

hölzli<br />

Segantinistr.<br />

Schützenhaus Schauen-<br />

Höngg<br />

berg<br />

Singlistr.<br />

Bändliweg<br />

Einfangstr.<br />

Winzerstr.<br />

Friedhof<br />

Hönggerberg Lerchen-<br />

Wartau<br />

Michelstr.<br />

rain<br />

tr.<br />

ZwielSchumacherplatz<br />

Grünaustr.<br />

37 weg<br />

78<br />

80<br />

29<br />

Glaubten-<br />

89<br />

ETH<br />

str. Süd<br />

Hönggerberg Wannen-<br />

Grimselstr.<br />

holzHöngger-<br />

Flurstr.<br />

Tüffenwies<br />

berg Rebhüsli<br />

89<br />

Neu-<br />

80<br />

95<br />

Am<br />

affoltern<br />

Börtli Im Wingert<br />

Althoos<br />

Chalet-<br />

Hardhof<br />

AlbiswegLuggweg-<br />

Appenzellerstr.<br />

rank<br />

Würzgraben<br />

Maienweg<br />

str.<br />

Alte<br />

Aargauerstr. Hardturm<br />

Trotte<br />

Kempfhofsteig<br />

Krematorium<br />

Letzipark<br />

Letzipark Sportweg Bernoulli-<br />

Waidbadstr. Nordheim<br />

Birchstr.<br />

West<br />

75<br />

DuttweilerhäuserEscherRebbergOberwiesengutwegsteigPflegeNordheim- Freihofstr. SBB-Werkstr.stättebrücke<br />

768<br />

S5 S6 S7 S16<br />

zentrumstr. Birchdörfli<br />

72<br />

Waid-<br />

Käferberg Berufswahl-<br />

Max-Bill-<br />

Herdern-<br />

Fischerweg<br />

fusswegschule<br />

Platz<br />

str.Lehen-<br />

Waidspital<br />

Technopark Förrlibuckstr.<br />

Letzigrund<br />

str.WipkingerAlbisrieder-<br />

Escher-Wyss-Platz platzRosenWeiherplatzgartenstr.steig 89<br />

72<br />

62<br />

33<br />

Zypressen-<br />

S2 S8 S14<br />

Bahnhof<br />

str.Damm-<br />

Wipkingen<br />

wegBucheggFernsehNürenplatz<br />

Hallenbad<br />

studio<br />

Lochergut<br />

Quellen-<br />

Lettenstr. bergstr.<br />

Oerlikon<br />

str.<br />

10<br />

KehrichtKalk-<br />

Okenstr.<br />

Riedgraben<br />

Röntgenstr.<br />

verbrennungbreiteLaubi-<br />

7<br />

32<br />

Limmatweg<br />

Saatlenstr.<br />

Zwingli-<br />

Kernstr.<br />

platz<br />

Orionstr.<br />

Militär-|Langstr.<br />

haus<br />

Museum f.<br />

Bezirks-<br />

Gestaltung<br />

Dreispitz<br />

Auzelg<br />

Schmiede<br />

gebäude<br />

Wiedikon<br />

Kanonen-<br />

Sihlquai|HB<br />

Schaffhauser- Universität<br />

gasseplatz<br />

Irchel<br />

Aubrücke<br />

LandesLang-<br />

Tierspital Wald-<br />

Auzelg Ost<br />

museummauer<br />

Strickhof<br />

Garten<br />

14<br />

str.<br />

Letzistr.<br />

Frohburg<br />

SchürgiScheuch-<br />

Friedrichstr.<br />

str.<br />

62<br />

zerstr.<br />

Langensteinenstr.<br />

Heerenwiesen<br />

Schwamendingerplatz<br />

S4 S10<br />

Kinkelstr. Schäppiweg<br />

Roswiesen Luegis-<br />

89<br />

66<br />

land<br />

Seilbahn Rigiblick<br />

13<br />

15<br />

Germaniastr.<br />

Glattwiesen<br />

Rigiblick<br />

33<br />

6<br />

Probstei<br />

7<br />

200<br />

Spyristeig<br />

444<br />

Mattenhof<br />

445<br />

Hügelstr.<br />

SIHL<br />

Brunau|<br />

Krönleinstr.<br />

S4<br />

Mutschellenstr.<br />

Heubeeriweg<br />

Thujastr.<br />

Flobotstr.<br />

33<br />

Jugendherberge<br />

5<br />

6<br />

70<br />

Opern-<br />

Römerhof<br />

haus<br />

Dolderbahn<br />

Kreuzplatz<br />

Kreuzstr.<br />

Signaustr.<br />

Feldeggstr.Hegibach-<br />

Elektrowatt<br />

platz<br />

33<br />

Freiestr.<br />

Kapfstr.<br />

Schlyfi<br />

Hedwigsteig<br />

Zürichhorn Casino Fröhlichstr.<br />

Drusbergstr.<br />

Waserstr.<br />

Wetlistr. Carl-Spitteler-<br />

Str.<br />

Paulus-<br />

Akademie<br />

Burgwies<br />

10<br />

40<br />

15 Tram (Nr. 2–15)<br />

Wonnebergstr.<br />

Tram (nos. 2–15)<br />

66 Bus (Nr. 29–916) Bus (nos. 29–916)<br />

Flühgasse<br />

S8 S-Bahn<br />

S-Bahn train<br />

24 Bergbahn<br />

Epi-Klinik Cable car/funicular<br />

Zürichsee Schiff<br />

Lake Zurich boat<br />

Im Walder<br />

Limmatschiff<br />

Bleulerstr.<br />

Limmat river boat<br />

EndhaltestelleBahnhof<br />

Terminus<br />

Tiefenbrunnen<br />

Haltestelle nur in Bus stop only for<br />

Pfeilrichtung bedient direction shown<br />

Linie verkehrt nur<br />

in einer Richtung<br />

Bus only travels in<br />

one direction here<br />

10<br />

50<br />

Tarifzone ZVV<br />

ZVV fare zone<br />

Wald<br />

Woodland<br />

©ZVV|VBZ|12.2009<br />

91


64 STREET REGISTER<br />

Abeggweg M-5<br />

Achermannweg O-2<br />

Ackermannstrasse IJ-2<br />

Ackerstrasse D-1/M-7<br />

Aegertenstrasse B-4<br />

Aehrenweg M-2<br />

Affolternstrasse M/O-1<br />

Agnesstrasse A-2<br />

Akazienstrasse G-5/6<br />

Albert-Näf-Platz O-2<br />

Albertstrasse L-7<br />

Albin-Zollinger-Platz N-3<br />

Alderstrasse H-7<br />

Alfred-Escher-Strasse D-6/7<br />

Allenmoosstrasse N/O-3<br />

Allmendstrasse B-7<br />

Alte Feldeggstrasse G-6<br />

Am Schanzengraben D-4<br />

Ampèresteg K-5<br />

Ampèrestrasse K-5<br />

Andreasstrasse O-1<br />

Angelikaweg M-1/2<br />

Angererstrasse D-5<br />

Ankerstrasse B-3/C-2<br />

Anna-Heer-Strasse N-3/4<br />

Anton-Higi-Strasse L-2<br />

Anwandstrasse B-2<br />

Apollostrasse H-5<br />

Arbenzstrasse H-7<br />

Armin-Bollinger-Weg M/N-1<br />

Arnold-Kübler-Strasse N-1<br />

Arterstrasse H-5<br />

Asternweg O-3<br />

Asylstrasse H-4/I-5<br />

Attenhoferstrasse H-3<br />

Aubrigstrasse C-4/D-5<br />

Auf der Mauer F-2<br />

Augustinergasse E-3/4<br />

Aurorastrasse J-3/4<br />

Ausstellungsstrasse D-1/M-7<br />

Austrasse B-5<br />

Azurstrasse N-2<br />

Bachofnerstrasse M-6<br />

Bachtobelstrasse A-6<br />

Badenerstrasse A-2/D-3<br />

Badweg D-4<br />

Bächtoldstrasse H-3<br />

Bäckerstrasse C-3<br />

Bärengasse D/E-4<br />

Bahnhofbrücke E-2/F-2<br />

Bahnhofplatz E-2<br />

Bahnhofquai E2-3/F2-3<br />

Bahnhofstrasse E-3/4<br />

Baschligplatz H-4<br />

Basteiplatz D-4<br />

Bauhallengasse B-3<br />

Baumackerstrasse N/O-2<br />

Baumgartnerstrasse B-3/4<br />

Baumgasse D-1/M-7<br />

Baurstrasse G/H-7<br />

Beatenplatz E-2<br />

Beckenhofstrasse N-7<br />

Beckhammer N-3/4<br />

Bederstrasse C-6<br />

Beethovenstrasse D-4/E-5<br />

Begonienstrasse O-3<br />

Bellerivestrasse G-7<br />

Bellevueplatz F-5<br />

Belsitostrasse I-3<br />

Bergstrasse I-3/J-5<br />

Berneggweg A-5<br />

Berninaplatz O-3<br />

Berninastrasse N-2/O-3<br />

Beustweg G/H-4<br />

Biberlinstrasse J-5<br />

Billrothstrasse H-6<br />

Billrothweg H-6<br />

Binzmühlestrasse M/O-1<br />

Bionstrasse G-1<br />

Birchdörfli M-2<br />

Bircher-Benner-Platz I-3<br />

Birchplatz M/N-2<br />

Birchsteg M/N-2<br />

Birchstrasse M-2/N-1<br />

Birmensdorferstrasse B4<br />

Birnbaumstrasse O-1/2<br />

Bleicherweg D-5<br />

Blümlisalpstrasse O-5/6<br />

Blütenstrasse O-3<br />

Blumenweg G-6/7<br />

Bluntschlisteig C/D-6<br />

Bodmerstrasse D-5<br />

Böcklinstrasse H-5/I-6<br />

Börsenstrasse E-4<br />

Bolleystrasse G-1-/2<br />

Brandschenkesteig C-5<br />

Brandschenkestr. C-6/D-4<br />

Brauerstrasse C-2<br />

Breitingerstrasse D-6<br />

Bremgartnerstrasse A-4/B-3<br />

Brinerstrasse A-4<br />

Brotgasse G-5/6<br />

Brown-Boveri-Strasse M-1<br />

Brüderhofweg N-4<br />

Bruggerweg K/L-4<br />

Brunaustrasse C/D-7<br />

Brunnenhofstrasse M-4<br />

Brunnenhofweg M-4<br />

Bubenbergstrasse B-7<br />

Bucheggplatz M-4<br />

Bucheggstrasse L-5/N-4<br />

Buchmattweg N-4/5<br />

Büchnerstrasse G-1/O-7<br />

Bühleggweg O-1<br />

Bühlstrasse A-5<br />

Bührlestrasse M-1<br />

Bülachstrasse O-3/4<br />

Bürglistrasse C-6<br />

Bürkliplatz E-5/F-5<br />

Büttenweg B-7<br />

Bungertweg I-3/4<br />

Burgsteig L-5/6<br />

Burgstrasse L-6<br />

Burgweg H/I-6<br />

Cäcilienstrasse G-4<br />

Carmenstrasse I-4<br />

Central F-2<br />

Ceresstrasse H-7<br />

Chaletweg M-1<br />

Claridenstrasse D-4/E-5<br />

Clausiussteig F-2<br />

Clausiusstrasse F-1<br />

Con.-Ferd.-Meyer--Str. D-7<br />

Corrodisteig L-4<br />

Corrodistrasse L-4/5<br />

Cramerstrasse C-3<br />

Culmannstrasse G-1/O-7<br />

Dahliastrasse G/H-7<br />

Damhirschweg K/L-4<br />

Dammsteg L-6<br />

Dammstrasse L-5/6<br />

Dammweg L-6<br />

Delphinstrasse G-5<br />

Dianastrasse D-4<br />

Dienerstrasse C-2<br />

Dietzingerstrasse B-4<br />

Dörflistrasse O-2/3<br />

Dolderstrasse I-4/J-3<br />

Doldertal I-3<br />

Dorflindenstrasse O-2<br />

Dorfstrasse K-5<br />

Drahtschmidlisteg E-1/N-7<br />

Drahtzugstrasse I-6<br />

Drehergasse H-5<br />

Dreikönigstrasse D/E-5<br />

Dubsstrasse B-5<br />

Dufourstrasse G/H-7<br />

Dunantstrasse I-2<br />

Ebelstrasse I/J-3<br />

Edenstrasse B-6<br />

Edisonstrasse O-2<br />

Eduard-Imhof-Strasse M-1<br />

Eggenschwilerweg N-5<br />

Eibenstrasse B-5<br />

Eichstrasse B-6<br />

Eidmattstrasse H/I-5<br />

Eisengasse G-6<br />

Eisgasse D-2<br />

Ekkehardsteig N-7<br />

Ekkehardstrasse N-6/O-7<br />

Eleonorenstrasse H-3<br />

Elias-Canetti-Strasse N-1<br />

Elisabethenstrasse B-3<br />

Ellen-Widmann-Weg N-1<br />

Else-Lasker-Schüler-Weg N-1<br />

Emil-Oprecht-Platz N-1<br />

Emil-Oprecht-Strasse N-1<br />

Emil-Rütti-Weg M/N-1<br />

Engelstrasse B-2/3<br />

Engimattstrasse B-6/C-7<br />

Englischviertelstrasse H-4/5<br />

Engweg N-7<br />

Erika-Mann-Weg N-1<br />

Erikastrasse B-3/4<br />

Erismannstrasse A-2<br />

Erlachstrasse B-4<br />

Eschenweg N-3<br />

Escher-Wyss-Platz K-6<br />

Eschwiesenstrasse A-3<br />

Fabrikstrasse L-6/7<br />

Färberstrasse G-6<br />

Falkenstrasse F/G-5<br />

Fehrenstrasse H-4<br />

Feilengasse H-7<br />

Feldeggstrasse G/H-6<br />

Feldgütliweg B-3<br />

Feldstrasse B-2/3<br />

Felsenkellerweg C-5/6<br />

Felsenstrasse I-6<br />

Fennergasse G-6<br />

Fichtenstrasse I-5<br />

Fierzgasse D-1/M-7<br />

Finslerstrasse I-2<br />

Fliederstrasse F-1<br />

Flössergasse D-4<br />

Florastrasse G-6<br />

Florhofgasse G-3<br />

Föhrenstrasse N-2<br />

Forchstrasse H-5/6<br />

Franklinplatz N/O-2<br />

Franklinstrasse N/O-2<br />

Frauenklinikstrasse G-2<br />

Fraumünsterstrasse E-4/5<br />

Freiensteinstrasse H-4<br />

Freiestrasse G-3/I-5<br />

Freigutstrasse C-4/D-5<br />

Freischützgasse D-2<br />

Freudenbergstrasse H-1/2<br />

Freudwilerweg H-1<br />

Freyastrasse B-3/C-4<br />

Friesstrasse O-1<br />

Fritz-Heeb-Weg N-1<br />

Fröbelstrasse J-6<br />

Frohburgstrasse O-5/6<br />

Fürstweg M-5<br />

Füsslistrasse D/E-3<br />

Gablerstrasse C-6/7<br />

Gagliardiweg O-2<br />

Gallusstrasse N-7<br />

Gartenhofstrasse B/C-3<br />

Gartenstrasse D-4<br />

Gartenweg C/D-4<br />

Gasometerstrasse L/M-7<br />

Gattikerstrasse J-6<br />

Gaugerstrasse N-6<br />

Geibelstrasse L-5<br />

Geissbergweg O-6/7<br />

Geisshübelstrasse B-6/7<br />

Gellertstrasse H-2<br />

Gemeindestrasse G/H-4<br />

Gemsenstrasse N-6<br />

General-Guisan-Quai D/E-5<br />

General-Wille-Strasse D-5<br />

Genfer Strasse D-5<br />

Georgengasse N-7<br />

Geranienstrasse H-7<br />

Gerechtigkeitsgasse C/D-4<br />

Gerhardstrasse B-4<br />

Geroldrampe K-7<br />

Geroldstrasse K-7<br />

Gersten-strasse L-6<br />

Gertrud-Kurz-Strasse M-1<br />

Gessnerallee D-3/E-2<br />

Gessnerbrücke D-2<br />

Giesshübelbrücke B/C-5<br />

Gladbachstrasse G-1/H-2<br />

Glärnischstrasse E-4/5<br />

Glasmalergasse C/D-3<br />

Gletscherstrasse H-7<br />

Gloriasteig H-2/3<br />

Gloriastrasse H-2<br />

Götzstrasse N/O-6<br />

Goldauerstrasse O-6<br />

Goldbrunnenstrasse A-4/5<br />

Goldregenweg M-2<br />

Gotthardstrasse D-5<br />

Gotthelfstrasse B-4<br />

Grabenwies M-3<br />

Granitweg N-7<br />

Grebelackerstrasse M-4<br />

Grüngasse C-3<br />

Grütlistrasse C-6<br />

Gubelhangstrasse N-2<br />

Gubelstrasse N-2<br />

Güetliweg M-1<br />

Guggachstrasse M/N-4<br />

Guggerweg N-4<br />

Gujerstrasse O-1<br />

Gutenbergstrasse C/D-5<br />

Guthirtstrasse L-5<br />

Habsburgstrasse L-5/6<br />

Hadlaubsteig O-6<br />

Hadlaubstrasse H-1/O-5/6<br />

Häderlihof N-4<br />

Häldeliweg H-2<br />

Hafnerstrasse D-1<br />

Hainerweg H-6<br />

Haldenbachstrasse G-1<br />

Haldeneggsteig F-1<br />

Haldenstrasse A-5/6<br />

Hallenstrasse G-5/6<br />

Hallwylplatz C-4<br />

Hallwylstrasse C-4<br />

Hammersteig I-6<br />

Hammerstrasse H/I-6<br />

Hardbrücke K-6/L-5<br />

Hardstrasse K-6/7<br />

Hardturmrampe K-6<br />

Haselweg H-3<br />

Hauserstrasse I-4/J-3<br />

Hedwigsteig I-6<br />

Hedwigstrasse I-6<br />

Hegarstrasse H-5<br />

Hegibachplatz I-6<br />

Hegibachstrasse I-6/J-5<br />

Heidegraben N-2/3<br />

Heimplatz G-4<br />

Heinrichstr. C/D-1, K-6/M-7<br />

Helenastrasse H-7<br />

Heliosstrasse I-5/6<br />

Hellmutstrasse B-2<br />

Helvetiaplatz C-2<br />

Herbartstrasse C-2<br />

Herman-Greulich-Strasse B-2<br />

Herrenbergstrasse O-7<br />

Herzogstrasse H-2<br />

Heuelsteig I/J-4<br />

Heuelstrasse J-4<br />

Himmelsleitli H-3<br />

Hinterbergstrasse H-1/2<br />

Hirschengraben F-3/G--4<br />

Hirschgartnerweg O-4<br />

Hirschwiesenstrasse N/O-4<br />

Hitzigweg J-5<br />

Hochfarbstrasse F-2<br />

Hochstrasse H-2<br />

Höhensteig J-5<br />

Höhenweg J-5<br />

Hölderlinsteig I/J-5<br />

Hölderlinstrasse I-5<br />

Hönggerstrasse K-5/L-6<br />

Höschgasse G/H7<br />

Hofackerstrasse I/J-6<br />

Hoffeld M-2/3<br />

Hofhölzliweg L-2<br />

Hofstrasse H-4/J-2<br />

Hofwiesenstrasse M-5/N-2<br />

Hohe Promenade G-4<br />

Hohenbühlstrasse G-5<br />

Hohlstrasse B/C-2<br />

Holbeinstrasse G-5<br />

Holunderhof M-2<br />

Holunderweg M-2<br />

Hopfenstrasse B-5<br />

Horgenweg K-2<br />

Hottingerbergstrasse J-2/3<br />

Hottingerplatz H-4<br />

Hottingerstrasse G-4<br />

Hotzesteig N-5<br />

Hotzestrasse N-6<br />

Hügelstrasse C-7<br />

Hüttisstrasse O-1<br />

Hufgasse G-5<br />

Hugostrasse O-2<br />

Huttensteig G-1, O-7<br />

Huttenstrasse G-1/2<br />

Idaplatz A-3<br />

Idastrasse A-3<br />

Ilanzhofweg N-5<br />

Ilgenstrasse H-4<br />

Im Birkenhof N-5<br />

Im Eisernen Zeit N-5/6<br />

Im Hofgarten M-5<br />

Im Schilf H-1<br />

Im Waidegg M-4<br />

Imfeldsteig M-6<br />

Imfeldstrasse L/M-6<br />

Immenweg M-2<br />

<strong>In</strong> Gassen E-4<br />

<strong>In</strong>selhofstrasse H-7<br />

Irchelstrasse N-5<br />

Irisstrasse H-3<br />

Irringersteig G-2<br />

Islerstrasse B-7<br />

Jägergasse D-2<br />

James-Joyce-Strasse N-1<br />

Jasminweg M-2<br />

Jenatschstrasse D-5<br />

Joachim-Hefti-Weg C-6<br />

Johannes-Ott-Weg M-5<br />

Johannesgasse C/D-1, M-7<br />

Josefstrasse C/D-1, K-6/L-7<br />

Juliastrasse H-5<br />

Jungholzhof O-1<br />

Jungholzstrasse N-1<br />

Jungholzweg O-1<br />

Jungstrasse N-1<br />

Jupitersteig J-5<br />

Jupiterstrasse I-5<br />

Käferholzstrasse L-2/M-4<br />

Kalandergasse B-6/7<br />

Kalanderplatz B-7<br />

Kalkbreitestrasse A-4/B-3<br />

Kanalstrasse B-7<br />

Kanonengasse C-2<br />

Kantonsschulstrasse G-3/4<br />

Kantstrasse H-2/3<br />

Kanzleistrasse A-2/C-3<br />

Kapfsteig J-6<br />

Kappelergasse E-4<br />

Kappelerhof E-4<br />

Karl-Bürkli-Strasse A-2<br />

Karlstrasse H-7<br />

Kartausstrasse IJ-7<br />

Kasernenstrasse D-2/3<br />

Kasinostrasse H-4<br />

Katharinenweg C-6<br />

Kehlhofstrasse A/B-4<br />

Keltenstrasse I-2<br />

Kempterstrasse J-5<br />

Kenngottweg F-2<br />

Kernstrasse B-3/C-2<br />

Kiefernweg M-2<br />

Kinkelstrasse N-7/O-6<br />

Kirchbühlweg A-4/5<br />

Kirchenweg H-6<br />

Kirchgasse F-4<br />

Klarastrasse G-5<br />

Klausstrasse G-6/7<br />

Kleinertstrasse K/L-5<br />

Kleinjoggsteig H/I-1<br />

Kleinstrasse G-5<br />

Klingenstrasse D-1<br />

Klopstockstrasse C-6<br />

Klosbachstrasse H-5/I-4<br />

Kloster-Fahr-Weg M/N7<br />

Klusdörfli J-5<br />

Klusplatz J-5<br />

Klusstrasse J-5<br />

Kochstrasse A-2<br />

Köchlistrasse B-3<br />

Köllikerstrasse I/J-3<br />

Körnerstrasse B-3<br />

Konkordiastrasse H/I-5<br />

Konradstrasse D-1<br />

Korneliusstrasse H-7/8<br />

Kornhausbrücke M-7<br />

Kornhausstrasse M-6<br />

Krähbühlstrasse I/J-2<br />

Krähbühlweg J-2<br />

Kräuelgasse C-2<br />

Kraftstrasse H/I-2<br />

Kreuzbühlstrasse G-5<br />

Kreuzplatz H-5<br />

Kreuzstrasse G-5/6<br />

Krönleinstrasse H/I-1<br />

Kronenstrasse M/N-6<br />

Kügeliloostrasse L/M-1<br />

Künstlergasse F/G-3<br />

Künzlistrasse M-2/3<br />

Kurfirstensteig C-7<br />

Kurhausstrasse J-3<br />

Kurt-Hirschfeld-Weg N-1/2<br />

Kurvenstrasse N-7<br />

Kurzgasse C-2<br />

Kyburgstrasse L-5<br />

Lägernstrasse M-5<br />

Lagerstrasse C/D-2<br />

Lamprechtweg M/N-1<br />

Landenbergstrasse L-5<br />

Landisstrasse N-1<br />

Landoltstrasse G-1, O-7<br />

Langackerstrasse M/N-4<br />

Langensteinenstrasse O-5<br />

Langfurren N-3/4<br />

Langmauerstrasse N-6<br />

Langstrasse C-1/2, L/M-7<br />

Langwiesstrasse M-1/N-2<br />

Laubiweg M-5<br />

Laufferweg N-5<br />

Laurenzgasse N-7<br />

Lavaterstrasse D-6<br />

Lehensteig L-5<br />

Lehenstrasse K-5/L-4<br />

Leimgasse H-7<br />

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Leonhardstrasse F-2<br />

Lerchenstrasse B-6/7<br />

Lessingstrasse B-7<br />

Lettenfussweg L-6<br />

Lettensteg M-6/7<br />

Lettenstrasse M-6<br />

Lettenviadukt L/M-6<br />

Letzistrasse O-5/6<br />

Leutholdstrasse L-5<br />

Ligusterstrasse N/O-3<br />

Lilienstrasse I-5<br />

Limmatplatz L/M-7<br />

Limmatquai E3/F3-4<br />

Limmatstr. D/E-1, K-6/M-7<br />

Lindenbachstrasse M/N-6<br />

Lindenstrasse G-7<br />

Lindenweg L-3/4<br />

Lintheschergasse E-2/3<br />

Löwenplatz D/E-3<br />

Löwenstrasse D-3/E-2<br />

Louis-Braille-Strasse A-6<br />

Luisenstrasse C-1/L-7<br />

Lunastrasse H/I-5<br />

Lureiweg I-7<br />

Lutherstrasse C-3<br />

Lux-Guyer-Weg M/N-7<br />

Magnolienstrasse G-6<br />

Magnusstrasse B-2/C-1<br />

Maienstrasse L-2/M-1<br />

Maienweg L-2<br />

Mainaustrasse G-6<br />

Malvenstrasse N/O-3<br />

Malzstrasse B-5<br />

Manesseplatz B-5<br />

Manessesstrasse B/C-4<br />

Manessestrasse B-5/6<br />

Mantelgasse H-7<br />

Margrit-Rainer-Str. M/N-1<br />

Marienstrasse A-3<br />

Marktgasse F-3<br />

Marktplatz O-2<br />

Markusstrasse M/N-6<br />

Marmorgasse C-2<br />

Marscha-Kaléko-Weg N-1<br />

Marsstrasse D-6<br />

Marstallweg D1,M7<br />

Martastrasse A-2/3<br />

Mattengasse C1, L/M-7<br />

Mattensteg E-1<br />

Max-Bill-Platz N-1<br />

Meierweg N-6<br />

Meiliweg A-5<br />

Meinrad-Lienert-Str. A/B-3<br />

Meinradstrasse N-6<br />

Merkurplatz H-4<br />

Merkurstrasse G-5/H-4<br />

Milchbuckstrasse N/O-5<br />

Militärbrücke D-3<br />

Militärstrasse C/D-2<br />

Mimosenstrasse O-3<br />

Minervastrasse H-5/I-6<br />

Mittelstrasse G-7<br />

Möhrlistrasse O-5/6<br />

Molkenstrasse C-2<br />

Mommsenstrasse H-2<br />

Moosbergerweg M-6<br />

Moosgutstrasse A/B-7<br />

Morgartenstrasse C-4<br />

Morgenweg J-4<br />

Motorenstrasse L-7<br />

Moussonstrasse H-2/3<br />

Mühlebachstrasse H-6/I-8<br />

Mühlegasse F-3<br />

Mühlesteg E-2/F-2<br />

Müllerstrasse C-2-3<br />

Münchsteig H/I-7<br />

Münsterbrücke E-4/F-4<br />

Münstergasse F-3/4<br />

Münsterhof E-4<br />

Museumstrasse E-2<br />

Mythenquai D-6<br />

Näfgasse H-6<br />

Nägelistrasse H-3<br />

Nansenstrasse O-1/2<br />

Narzissenstrasse F-1,O-7<br />

Nelkenstrasse F-1,O-7<br />

Neptunstrasse H-5<br />

Neudorfstrasse O-1<br />

Neue Hard K-6/7<br />

Neufrankengasse C-1<br />

Neugasse C/D-1,L7<br />

Neugutstrasse C-6/7<br />

Neuhausstrasse I-2<br />

Neumarkt F-3<br />

Neumühlequai E-1/2<br />

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Neumünsterallee H-6<br />

Neumünsterstrasse H/I-6<br />

Niederdorfstrasse F-3<br />

Nietengasse B/C-2<br />

Niklausstrasse N-7<br />

Nordbrücke L/M-5<br />

Nordheimstrasse M-3<br />

Nordsteig E-1<br />

Nordstrasse K-5/N-7<br />

Nürenbergstrasse M-5<br />

Nürenbergweg M-5/6<br />

Nüschelerstrasse D-3/E-4<br />

Oberdorfstrasse F-4<br />

Obere Waidstrasse K/L-4<br />

Obere Weiherstrasse L-4<br />

Obere Zäune F-3/4<br />

Oberer Gloriasteig H-2<br />

Oberwiesenstrasse M-1/2<br />

Obstgartenstr. E1,F1,N7<br />

Oerlikonerstrasse O-3<br />

Oetenbachgasse E-3<br />

Ohmstrasse O-1<br />

Okenstrasse M-6<br />

Oleanderstrasse N-2<br />

Olivengasse H-5<br />

Oskar-Bider-Strasse M/N-5<br />

Othmarstrasse G-5<br />

Ottenweg G-6/H-5<br />

Ottikerstrasse N/O-7<br />

Ottikerweg O-7<br />

Ottilienstrasse A-3/4<br />

Otto-C.-Bänninger-Weg J-5<br />

Otto-Lang-Weg H-1<br />

Otto-Schütz-Weg N-1<br />

Ottostrasse L-7<br />

Panweg G-1<br />

Paradeplatz E-4<br />

Parkring C/D-5<br />

Paul-Grüninger-Weg M-1<br />

Pelikanplatz D-4<br />

Pelikanstrasse D-4<br />

Pestalozzistrasse H-3<br />

Pfirsichstrasse M/N-6<br />

Pflanzschulstrasse B-2<br />

Pflugstrasse M/N-6<br />

Phönixweg G-3<br />

Physikstrasse G-2<br />

Pilatusstrasse J-3<br />

Plattenstrasse H-3<br />

Postbrücke D/E-2<br />

Poststrasse E-4<br />

Probusweg O-3<br />

Promenadengasse G-4<br />

Quaibrücke E-5,F5<br />

Quellenstrasse L-7<br />

Querstrasse N/O-2<br />

Radgasse D-2/E-1<br />

Rämistrasse F-4/G-2<br />

Rankstrasse I-6<br />

Rathausbrücke E-3,F-3<br />

Rebgasse C-3<br />

Rebhaldenstrasse C-6/7<br />

Rebhügelstrasse A-5<br />

Regensbergstrasse M-2/O-3<br />

Regina-Kägi-Hof M-1<br />

Regina-Kägi-Strasse M-1<br />

Reinacherstrasse I-5<br />

Reinhardstrasse G-5/6<br />

Reishauerstrasse D-1,M-7<br />

Reitergasse D-2<br />

Rennweg E-3<br />

Restelbergstrasse H-1<br />

Ricarda-Huch-Strasse N-1<br />

Richard-Kissling-Weg J-2<br />

Richard-Wagner-Str. D-6/7<br />

Riedtlistrasse N-6/O-7<br />

Riesbachstrasse H-7<br />

Rieterplatz C-7<br />

Rieterstrasse C-6/7<br />

Rigiplatz O-7<br />

Rigistrasse O-7<br />

Rindermarkt F-3<br />

Ringstrasse N-3<br />

Rislingstrasse H-2<br />

Ritterstrasse H-4<br />

Robert-Maillart-Strasse M-1<br />

Römerhofplatz I-4<br />

Röntgenplatz L-7<br />

Röntgenstrasse C-1,L-6/7<br />

Röschibachsteig L-5<br />

Röschibachstrasse L-5<br />

Röschibachweg L-5<br />

Röslibrunnenweg N/O-6<br />

Röslistrasse N/O-6<br />

Rötelsteig M-5<br />

Rötelstrasse M-4/N-6<br />

Roggenstrasse L-6<br />

Rolandstrasse C-2<br />

Rosa-Bloch-Weg M-1<br />

Rosengartenbrücke L-5<br />

Rosengartenstrasse L-5<br />

Rotachstrasse A-4<br />

Rotbuchstrasse M-5/6<br />

Rothstrasse M/N-5<br />

Rotwandstrasse C-2/3<br />

Rousseaustrasse L-5/M-7<br />

Rudolf-Brun-Brücke E-3,F-3<br />

Rudolfstrasse H-7<br />

Rückgasse G-6<br />

Ruedi-Walter-Strasse N-1<br />

Rüdigerstrasse B-6<br />

Rütistrasse I-4<br />

Rütschistrasse L/M-5<br />

Ruhestrasse B-6<br />

Salersteig O-2<br />

Salerstrasse O-2<br />

Samariterstrasse I-4/5<br />

Sandstrasse B-5<br />

Schäppistrasse O-6<br />

Schäppiweg O-6<br />

Schaffhauserplatz N-6<br />

Schaffhauserstr. N-6/O-1<br />

Schanzackerstrasse O-5/6<br />

Schanzengasse G4-5<br />

Scheffelstrasse L-5<br />

Scheideggstrasse C-7<br />

Scherrstrasse O-7<br />

Scheuchzerstrasse N-5/O-7<br />

Schienengasse B/C-1<br />

Schiffbauplatz K-6<br />

Schimmelstrasse B/C-4<br />

Schindlersteig N-6<br />

Schindlerstrasse M/N-6<br />

Schipfe E-3,F-3<br />

Schlatterweg N-5<br />

Schlehdornweg L-2<br />

Schleifergasse I-6<br />

Schlössliweg H/I-1<br />

Schlossgasse A/B-4<br />

Schmelzbergstr. G-2/H-1<br />

Schneckenmannstr. H/I-3<br />

Schönberggasse G-3<br />

Schönbühlstrasse H-4<br />

Schöneggplatz B/C-1<br />

Schöneggstrasse C-1/2<br />

Schönleinstrasse G-3<br />

Schöntalstrasse C-4<br />

Schreberweg J-2<br />

Schreinerstrasse B-2/3<br />

Schrennengasse A-4<br />

Schubertstrasse M-6<br />

Schürbungert N-3/4<br />

Schützengasse E-2<br />

Schützenmatt L-2<br />

Schützeweg L-6<br />

Schulhausstrasse C-6<br />

Schulstrasse N-2<br />

Schwalbenweg M-2<br />

Schwamendingenstr. O-2<br />

Schwarzenbachweg N/O-1<br />

Schwendenweg A-4<br />

Schwingerstrasse N-6/7<br />

Sechseläutenplatz F-5<br />

Seebahnstrasse A-2/B-4<br />

Seefeldquai G-6/7<br />

Seefeldstrasse G-6/H-7<br />

Seegartenstrasse G-6<br />

Seehofstrasse F/G-5<br />

Seerosenstrasse F/G-5<br />

Seestrasse D-6<br />

Seilergraben F-3<br />

Selnaustrasse D-3/4<br />

Seminarstrasse M/N-5<br />

Sempacherstrasse J-5/6<br />

Sennhauserweg I-4<br />

Siegfriedstrasse H-7/8<br />

Siewerdtstrasse O-1<br />

Signaustrasse H-5/6<br />

Sihlamtsstrasse C/D-4<br />

Sihlberg B-5/6<br />

Sihlbrücke D-3<br />

Sihlfeldstrasse A-3<br />

Sihlhallenstrasse C-1/2<br />

Sihlhölzlibrücke C-4<br />

Sihlhölzlistrasse C/D-4<br />

Sihlpromenade C-4/5<br />

Sihlquai D/E-1,L-6/M-7<br />

Sihlquai-Nordrampe K/L-6<br />

Sihlquai-Südrampe K/L-6<br />

Sihlstrasse D-3<br />

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Siriusstrasse G/H-1<br />

Sonneggsteig F-1,N/O-7<br />

Sonneggstrasse F-1/2<br />

Sonnenbergstrasse J-4<br />

Sonnhaldenstrasse I-5<br />

Sonntagsteig F-1,O-7<br />

Sophie-Albrecht-Weg M-1<br />

Sophie-Taeuber-Strasse N-1<br />

Sophienstrasse H-4<br />

Spanweidstrasse N-7<br />

Spelteriniweg M-5/N-4<br />

Spiegelhofstrasse H/I-3<br />

Spielweg M-6<br />

Spielwiesenstrasse N-2<br />

Spillmannweg H-1<br />

Spitzackerstrasse N-4<br />

Splügenstrasse D-5<br />

Spöndlistrasse G-2<br />

Sprecherstrasse G-4/5<br />

Sprensenbühlstrasse I-4<br />

Spyriplatz G-1<br />

Spyristrasse G/H-1,O-7<br />

St. Annagasse D/E-3<br />

St. Jakobstrasse C-3<br />

St. Moritzstrasse N-6/7<br />

St. Peterstrasse E-4<br />

Stadelhoferplatz F/G-5<br />

Stadelhoferstrasse F-4/5<br />

Stadthausquai E-4/5,F-4/5<br />

Stäblistrasse G-1,O-7<br />

Staffelstrasse B-6<br />

Stampfenbachplatz E-2,F-2<br />

Stampfenbachstrasse<br />

E-1/2,F-1/2,N-6/7<br />

Stapferstrasse F-1,O-7<br />

Stationsstrasse A/B-3<br />

Stauffacherbrücke C/D-4<br />

Stauffacherplatz C/D-4<br />

Stauffacherquai C-4/D-3<br />

Stauffacherstrasse A-2/C-3<br />

Steinentischstrasse C-5<br />

Steinfelsplatz K-6<br />

Steinhaldenstrasse C-6/7<br />

Steinhausweg E-1,F-1,N-7<br />

Steinkluppenweg N-3/4<br />

Steinstrasse B-4/5<br />

Steinwiesplatz G/H-4<br />

Steinwiesstrasse G/H-4<br />

Sternenstrasse D-6<br />

Sternwartstrasse G-2<br />

Stockerstrasse D-4/5<br />

Stolzestrasse O-6/7<br />

Strandbadweg D-7<br />

Strassburgstrasse C-3<br />

Streulistrasse I-5/J-6<br />

Stüssistrasse N-5/6<br />

Sumatrasteig E-1,F-1,N-7<br />

Sumatrastr. E-1,F-1,N/O-7<br />

Susenbergstrasse J-2<br />

Talacker D/E-4<br />

Talstrasse D-4/E-5<br />

Tannenstrasse F/G-2<br />

Tellstrasse C-2<br />

Tessinerplatz D-5<br />

Theaterstrasse F/G-5<br />

Therese-Giehse-Strasse N-1<br />

Thurgauerstrasse O-1/2<br />

Thurwiesenstrasse M-5<br />

Tièchestrasse L/M-4<br />

Titlisstrasse I-4<br />

Tobelhofstrasse J-2<br />

Toblerplatz H/I-2<br />

Toblerstrasse H-1/I-2<br />

Tödistrasse D-5<br />

Tramstrasse O-2<br />

Traubenstrasse D-6<br />

Traugottstrasse K-6<br />

Treichlerstrasse H-4<br />

Trottenstrasse K-5<br />

Tuggenerstrasse H-7<br />

Tuggenerweg H-7<br />

Tunnelstrasse C/D-5<br />

Turbinenplatz K-6<br />

Turnersteig N/O-7<br />

Turnerstrasse N-7<br />

Uetlibergstrasse A-6/B-5<br />

Uhlandstrasse L-5<br />

Ulmbergstrasse C/D-5<br />

Ulmenweg N-3<br />

Ulrichstrasse I-6<br />

Unionstrasse H-4<br />

Universitätstrasse G-1/2<br />

Untere Zäune F-3/4<br />

Uraniastrasse D/E-3<br />

Urselweg B-2/3<br />

Utobrücke B-6<br />

Utoplatz B-6<br />

Utoquai F-5/G-6<br />

Veilchenstrasse I-5<br />

Venusstrasse N-2/3<br />

Verena-Conzett-Strasse C-4<br />

Viaduktstrasse K-7<br />

Viktoriaweg O-3<br />

Vogelsangstrasse G-1<br />

Volkmarstrasse N-7<br />

Voltastrasse H-2<br />

Vorderberg H-2<br />

Waaggasse E-4<br />

Wachterweg M-5<br />

Wäldlistrasse H/I-4<br />

Waffenplatzstrasse C-7<br />

Wagnergasse G/H-5<br />

Waidfussweg K-4/5<br />

Waidstrasse K-4/5<br />

Walchebrücke E-2,F-2<br />

Walchestrasse E-1,F-1<br />

Waldfussweg K-4<br />

Waldhausstrasse J-3<br />

Waldmeisterweg L/M-2<br />

Waltersbachstrasse E-1,N-7<br />

Waltersteig E-1,N-7<br />

Wartstrasse I-5<br />

Wasserwerkstrasse L-6,N-7<br />

Wattstrasse O-1<br />

Weberstrasse C-4<br />

Wehntalerstrasse L-2/N-4<br />

Weichengasse C-1<br />

Weihersteig L-4<br />

Weinbergfussweg F-2<br />

Weinbergstrasse N-6/7<br />

Weineggstrasse I-6/J-7<br />

Weineggweg J-7<br />

Weinplatz E-4<br />

Weizenstrasse M-6<br />

Welchogasse O-2<br />

Weltistrasse C-6<br />

Wengistrasse B-3<br />

Werdgässchen C-3/4<br />

Werdgartengasse C-4<br />

Werdplatz C-3<br />

Werdstrasse C-3/4<br />

Werikonweg N-6<br />

Werkgasse G-6<br />

Wibichstrasse L-4/M-5<br />

Wiedingsteig A-5<br />

Wiedingstrasse A-4/5<br />

Wiesenstrasse G-6<br />

Wildbachstrasse H-7<br />

Wilfriedstrasse H-4<br />

Wilhelmstrasse K-6<br />

Winkelriedstrasse G-1,O-7<br />

Winterthurerstrasse O-4/7<br />

Wipkingerbrücke K-6/L-5<br />

Wipkingerplatz L-5<br />

Wipkingerweg K/L-5<br />

Wissmannstrasse M-5<br />

Witikonerstrasse J-5/6<br />

Wolfbachstrasse G-4<br />

Wolfbachtobelweg I/J-3<br />

Wotanstrasse I-5<br />

Wuhrstrasse B-4/5<br />

Wunderlistrasse K-4<br />

Wyssenbühlsteig C-7<br />

Wyssgasse C-3<br />

Zähringerstrasse F-3<br />

Zanggerweg N-5/6<br />

Zederstrasse G/H-3<br />

Zehnderweg F-1/2<br />

Zelgstrasse B-4/5<br />

Zeltweg G4-H5<br />

Zentralstrasse A-3/B-4<br />

Zeppelinstrasse M/N-5<br />

Zeughausstrasse C/D-3<br />

Zeunersteig L-5<br />

Zeunerstrasse L-5<br />

Zimmergasse G-5/6<br />

Zinistrasse C-2<br />

Zöllystrasse K/L-6<br />

Zollbrücke E-2<br />

Zollikerstrasse H-5/6<br />

Zollingerweg I-3<br />

Zollstrasse D-1<br />

Zschokkestrasse K/L-5<br />

Zürichbergstrasse G-3/I-2<br />

Zürichholzstrasse N-3<br />

Zurlindenstrasse B-4<br />

Zweierplatz C-3<br />

Zweierstrasse A-4/C-3<br />

Zwingliplatz F-4<br />

Zwinglistrasse C-2<br />

October - November 2012<br />

65


66 INDEX<br />

Venue index<br />

01Bar 35<br />

16tons 51<br />

Adagio 38<br />

Alexander 23<br />

Alpamare 48<br />

Andrea Hinnen 52<br />

ARTige Bar 36<br />

Asian Place 40<br />

Bally 53<br />

Barrique 36<br />

be code 52<br />

Bernie's 52<br />

Best of Zurich - Zürich City Tour<br />

45<br />

Beyer 58<br />

Bierfalken 32<br />

Billiardino 37<br />

Bindella 28<br />

Blockhus 27<br />

Blue Monkey 25<br />

Bodega Espanola 30<br />

Bohemia 30<br />

Bona Dea 32<br />

Bowling West 37<br />

Brasserie Federal 32<br />

Brasserie Lipp 27<br />

Bruno Weber's Skulpturenpark<br />

47<br />

Bü's 26<br />

Café Boy 26<br />

Café des Amis 33<br />

Café Schlauch 37<br />

Café Zähringer 31<br />

Calypso 38<br />

Casablanca 35<br />

Chäsalp 28<br />

CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 58<br />

City 23<br />

Clouds 29<br />

Club Tango Argentino 36<br />

Collana 33<br />

Comfort Hotel Royal 23<br />

Cranberry 39<br />

Crowne Plaza 22<br />

Daniel H. 39<br />

Didi's Frieden 26<br />

Dienstgebäude 58<br />

Don Leone 28<br />

Don Milonga 36<br />

Du Théâtre 24<br />

Eastinside 58<br />

Eden au Lac 21<br />

Einkaufszentrum Glatt 52<br />

Encore 38<br />

Ethnographic Museum 43<br />

Europaallee 53<br />

Exil 36<br />

Felsenegg lookout 49<br />

Flea Market Kanzlei 45<br />

Franz Carl Weber 50<br />

Fraumünster 41<br />

Fribourger Fonduestübli 28<br />

Friday's night @<br />

bananenreiferei 36<br />

galerie gmurzynska 58<br />

Galerie Haas 58<br />

Gemeinschaftszentren 50<br />

Ghost Walk of Zurich 45<br />

Giacometti murals 41<br />

Ginger 29<br />

Glassblowing Factory - Glasi<br />

Hergiswil 47<br />

Globus 52<br />

Gonzo 38<br />

Gotischer Saal - Haus zum<br />

Rüden 31<br />

Gran Café Motta 33<br />

Grossmünster 41<br />

Gübelin 58<br />

Guess Zurich 53<br />

Hardau Park 44<br />

Helmhaus 22<br />

Helvti Diner 25<br />

Hiltl 32<br />

Holiday <strong>In</strong>n Zurich Messe 22<br />

Honold La Confiserie 54<br />

Hornegg 31<br />

Hörnli - hiking and downhill<br />

scooters 48<br />

Hotel Goldenes Schwert 39<br />

Im Viadukt 53<br />

Italia 28<br />

IWC Boutique 58<br />

Jade 38<br />

Jaime El Barco 40<br />

Jap 52<br />

Jelmoli 52<br />

Kai 40<br />

Karma <strong>In</strong>ternational 58<br />

Kaufleuten 38<br />

Kerenzerberg - hiking and<br />

downhill scooters 48<br />

Kindercity 43, 50<br />

Kindli 27<br />

King's Cave 30<br />

Komplex 457 36<br />

Kronenhalle 31<br />

Krone Unterstrass &<br />

Townhouse 22<br />

Kunsthaus 43<br />

La Catrina 36<br />

Läderach Chocolatier Suisse 54<br />

Langstars 24<br />

La Stanza 33<br />

Le Dézaley 28<br />

Le Muh 40<br />

Les Halles 29<br />

Lily's 25<br />

Limmathof 24<br />

Lindenhof 42<br />

Lutomirsky Schuhe 53<br />

Maison Blunt 30<br />

Mammut 55<br />

Markthalle 31<br />

Marta 24<br />

Mascotte 36<br />

Meng Cutlery 53<br />

menüfoif 32<br />

Mère Catherine 27<br />

message salon 58<br />

Metropol 35<br />

Mishio 26<br />

Moods 36<br />

Moulin Rouge 38<br />

Mount Chäserrugg -<br />

Toggenburg 48<br />

Museum Rietberg 44<br />

National Museum 44<br />

Nietturm 35<br />

Olé-Olé 37<br />

Oliver Twist 37<br />

Opera 22<br />

Orell Füssli - The Bookshop 51<br />

Oxa 40<br />

Palavrion Bar 37<br />

Palme de Beirut 30<br />

Paradis des <strong>In</strong>nocents 55<br />

Park Hyatt Zurich 21<br />

Partime 58<br />

Pastorini 50<br />

Pfannenstiel Lookout 49<br />

Pizza Pasta Ciao! 50<br />

Popcorn 25<br />

Predigerhof 39<br />

Pretôt Delikatessen 55<br />

Pumpkin exhibition 47<br />

Rage 39<br />

Rheinfelder Bierhalle 32<br />

Rive Gauche 35<br />

Rolli's Steakhouse 40<br />

Rosenhofmarkt 45<br />

Sala of Tokyo 29<br />

Salsa con 5 36<br />

Saus und Braus - shop for<br />

design 52<br />

Schilthorn - Piz Gloria 49<br />

Schmuklerski 35<br />

Schurter 33<br />

Schweizer Heimatwerk 55<br />

Sein 36<br />

Shedhalle 44<br />

Sheraton Zurich Neues<br />

Schloss Hotel 22<br />

Sorell Seefeld 24<br />

Spice 27<br />

Sprüngli 33<br />

Stairs 38<br />

Stanserhorn 49<br />

Steigenberger Hotel Bellerive<br />

au Lac 22<br />

Sternen Grill 32<br />

St. Gotthard 23<br />

Storchen 27<br />

Stories of the Old Town -<br />

Guided walk 45<br />

Features index<br />

St. Peter 45<br />

Tanzleila 39<br />

Technorama - Swiss Science<br />

Centre 47<br />

Teddy's Souvenir-Shop 55<br />

Teuscher Confiserie 54<br />

The Lion 37<br />

The North Face Store 52<br />

Thermalbad & Spa Zürich 48<br />

Thermalbad Zurzach 48<br />

tibits 32<br />

Tiffins 26<br />

T&M and AAAH! 39<br />

Tritt-Käse 55<br />

Trois Pommes 52<br />

Truffe 54<br />

Tschingg 28<br />

Turm 28<br />

Uetliberg 42<br />

Valmann 37<br />

Vollenweider Chocolatier<br />

Confiseur 54<br />

Welcome <strong>In</strong>n 24<br />

Widder 21<br />

Wings 35<br />

Yooji's Bellevue 29<br />

Youth Hostel 24<br />

Zeughauskeller 32<br />

Ziegelhütte 40<br />

Zoological and Paleontological<br />

Museums of the University of<br />

Zurich 50<br />

Zum Grobe Ernst 30<br />

Zum Grünen Glas 29<br />

Zum Guten Glück 24<br />

Zurich Marriott Hotel 21<br />

Zurich Zoo 44<br />

Zürigay online magazine 39<br />

Adult entertainment 38<br />

Art market 58<br />

Billiards 37<br />

Breakfast 33<br />

Cinemas 15<br />

Classical dancing 36<br />

Decoding the menu 26<br />

Lake Zurich 41<br />

Live music venues 36<br />

Markets 45<br />

Meet Joyce, Lenin & Co 44<br />

Meet the concierge 23<br />

Quick eats 32<br />

Shopping around Langstrasse 52<br />

Swiss cuisine 30<br />

Swiss chocolate 54<br />

Thermal baths & Waterparks 48<br />

Useful Zurich apps 8<br />

Watches 56<br />

Zurich in 48 hours 42<br />

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